Luján de Cuyo Wine Region Guide

Geography and terroir

The striking landscapes of western Argentina are known locally as the Cuyo, a term introduced by the province’s original inhabitants, the itinerant Huarpes. The term derives from the word cuyum, which means ‘sandy earth’—an apt description of the alluvial terrain covering the Luján de Cuyo valley floor. After settling in Mendoza and neighboring San Juan in the 1400s, the Huarpes introduced the area’s first irrigation system, a legacy that remains important today.

Indeed, thanks to a complex and very old network of aqueducts, Mendoza now supports over 65 percent of Argentina’s wine production. Historically, these river-fed aqueducts provided flood irrigation, covering the topsoil in large quantities of meltwater supplied by the Andes.

Yet this ancient system can cause crop inflation, and so many quality-conscious growers in Luján de Cuyo have installed sophisticated drip irrigation technology in the vineyards. This commitment to quality and innovation allows a precision that is simply impossible with flood methods.

Geographic and Climatic Advantages 

This fact, combined with a myriad of topographical advantages, has propelled Luján de Cuyo to the first division of Argentine vineyards. Today, there are some 15,000 hectares under vine, located to the southwest of Mendoza city in a lush green oasis – quite a contrast to the surrounding desert!

This is made possible by an intricate series of arteries and canals that transport water from the Mendoza River, delivered in minute quantities to the vines. To the west are the majestic Andes, while the gentler Lunlunta hills border the eastern flank. Known as the Primera Zona (First Zone), Luján de Cuyo encompasses five distinct subregions: Agrelo, Compuertas, Pedriel, Ugarteche, and Vistalba.

Each of these areas enjoys a warm and dry climate (thanks to the rainshadow effect of the Andes). At the same time, intense solar radiation is responsible for the silky tannins and exotic ripeness consumers widely associate with Argentine Malbec. Yet, few high-quality wines veer into portiness due to an average elevation of 1000 meters above sea level. When combined with the cooling breezes that blow off the Andes, diurnal temperature variation acts as a barrier to overripeness, slowing down the vine’s metabolism as the sun sets.

Thus, winemakers and oenophiles can maintain acidity without sacrificing phenolic development, much to their delight. The terroir, meanwhile, is composed of sand, clay, and silt particles, transported by the Mendoza River and sourced from the high peaks of the Andes. Poor in organic matter, these alluvial soils yield small berries of high-quality fruit, so long as the vines are not overwatered.

Of the five districts, Las Compuertas (“the floodgates”) shows the most promise because it has a treasure trove of old Malbec vines, some of which are centenarians. Some exceptional Cabernet Franc and Chardonnay are also made here, nurtured via drainage channels that transport water from the nearby Mendoza River.

To the immediate north are the vineyards of Vistalba, renowned for its outstanding alluvial terroirs that are rich in minerals; this is one of the few places in Mendoza that can produce elegant Pinot Noir, the other key source being the Uco Valley. Much like Las Compuertas, high altitude, and well-drained stony soils encourage the production of excellent red and white wines: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Malbec, Petit Verdot, and Sauvignon Blanc all thrive here.

Emerging Varietals

Further south, Agrelo enjoys a privileged position in the western foothills of the Andes. Many of Argentina’s leading lights have built wineries in Agrelo, including Bodega Septima, Catena, and Pulenta Estate. Many consider this subregion the finest purveyor of Malbec in Argentina. Yet, a growing crop of outstanding Syrah—reminiscent of Hermitage—and Cabernet Sauvignon provides stiff competition to Argentina’s signature grape variety.

Pedriel, meanwhile, has a knack for producing voluptuous Chardonnay that stays on the right side of blowzy; full-bodied reds are slowly losing ground to dry whites as consumers increasingly seek out chilled beverages. But there is no denying the excellent quality of Pedriel-grown Bonarda, Malbec, and Cabernet Franc.

In contrast, Ugarteche is a relative newcomer to the world of fine wine. Situated on the western border of the Lunlunta hills, the 20th-century plantations generally dedicated themselves to bulk wine production, often using high-yielding Criolla varieties for juice concentrate. Today, its sandy soils and warm mesoclimate (average elevation is slightly lower in Ugarteche) deliver soft and accessible reds that can lack structure when compared to the best wines of Agrelo and Las Compuertas. Nevertheless, there are some real bargains to be found here.

Winemaking and regional classifications

The Luján de Cuyo keeps on surprising us. Every bottle of plum-scented, silky-smooth Malbec (and there are many) delivers an eclectic goody bag: spicy Petit Verdot, juicy Bonarda, and facsimiles of Bordeaux Blanc.

To quote Anne Bousquet, CEO & co-owner at Domaine Bousquet:

“Producers are increasingly focused on a diverse range of varietals. Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc for the reds and Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc for the whites, particularly in the more premium styles.”

Cheval Des Andes

Thus, you do not need to limit yourself to Argentina’s flagship grape when exploring the diverse vineyards of Mendoza’s backyard. Many connoisseurs start their journey with Cheval Des Andes, a joint venture between Pierre Lurton (erstwhile president of Cheval Blanc) and Roberto de la Mota. Determined to produce an Argentine ‘First Growth’ equal to the best of Bordeaux, Lurton and de la Mota discovered a parcel of ungrafted Malbec vines that date back to the 1920s.

These vines, planted at 1070 meters above sea level, produce a benchmark South American red—a potent blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, and Petit Verdot, thanks to the remarkable climate.

The cellar, meanwhile, would not look out of place in Pauillac or Margaux. Only the very best equipment is used to make this singular wine—hand-harvested grapes are subject to a rigorous sorting process before they are crushed and added to the fermenter. Vinification will then occur in stainless steel tanks at controlled temperatures, extracting rich color, flavor, and tannin from the berries.

After a relatively long post-fermentation maceration, the winemakers age the wine in different vessels to enhance complexity, typically using 225-liter barriques and larger 400-liter barrels. In 2016, for example, Cheval Des Andes was matured in 70% new oak for 14 months – a lesser wine would be overwhelmed by this. Yet Cheval Des Andes offers a perfectly balanced and harmonious red, featuring attractive aromas of crushed red fruits, vanilla, and damson. Its elegant structure matches the exceptionally long and intense finish. It is truly world-class.

Broadening the Spectrum of Varietals

The Luján de Cuyo excels at producing this style of red: powerfully structured yet very accessible wines that will improve in bottle for at least a decade. Today, many winemakers source their best fruit from vines planted in the mid-20th century or earlier. At the same time, a late 20th—and early 21st-century whirl of plantings of new varieties has widened the range of flavors available, including Sangiovese, Viognier, and Pinot Noir.

Of course, Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon still predominate. However, the quality of Burgundy varietals has improved dramatically over the past ten years. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grown in Agrelo and Las Compuertas at the highest elevations can be dazzling: Burgundian finesse allied to Argentine exuberance and vitality.

The valley also produces some high-quality Riesling, Syrah, and voluptuous Semillon, not to mention creditable examples of traditional method fizz. Las Perdices Extra Brut leads the pack, followed by Luigi Bosca Bohème Brut Nature. Never let it be said that Mendoza lacks variety!

Luján de Cuyo gastronomy

Some of Mendoza’s best restaurants are found in the vineyards of Luján de Cuyo, often attached to the area’s most glamorous winery hotels. Sophistication is the name of the game: Argentina’s leading chefs work in these establishments, considering grilled meat, delicious as it is, rather low-brow for this firmament. Thus, you can expect trendy lunch and dinner tasting menus, combining Argentine and European culinary influences to spectacular effect. Spicy lamb gigot and butternut squash mash paired with old vine Malbec? That will do nicely.