Bairrada Wine Region Guide

Winemaking and regional classifications

One of Bairrada’s most talented and respected winemakers, Luis Pato, described the Baga grape as a Portuguese facsimile of Nebbiolo, Piedmont’s leading red variety. Of course, from the perspective of the Italians, that may be overstating the case a bit! Yet there are some undeniable parallels, not least Baga’s tendency to produce wines with high acid and occasionally astringent tannin. And, like the Piedmontese, winegrowers in Bairrada have been focusing on fashioning a more approachable style of wine. Luis Pato pioneered a holistic approach to Baga, combining improved viticulture – green harvesting, etc. – with destemming, shorter macerations, and aging in French oak. This paradigm of lower yields and gentle extraction is now producing a ‘kinder,’ gentler style of Baga wine that can be enjoyed from the get-go. Dirk Niepoort, the iconic Douro winemaker who purchased Quinta do Baixo in 2012, is a major advocate of this approach.

Today, most wine is sold as Bairrada DOC (Denominação de Origem Controlada). The appellation framework, created in 1980, regulates the grape varieties used, production methods, and yield. It includes a set of rules that govern the production of sparkling – white and rosé – and still-white wines. Bairrada’s growing volume of premium whites includes saline beauties and powerfully structured blends – rich and full-bodied. As elsewhere, fermentation methods and attitudes to maturation in barrique will vary from producer to producer. A recently revived curiosity, Licoroso Baga, is a style of fortified red that is seldom exported. Nevertheless, it boasts a separate appellation and local fan club.

Geography and terroir

Equidistant (more or less) to Lisbon and Oporto, Bairrada has a great deal to offer the curious oenophile. It is part of the Beiras region of central-northern Portugal, flanked by the Atlantic to the west and Spain to the east. As you might expect, Bairrada wines are heavily influenced by the ocean’s proximity – its vineyards are relatively damp, and rot can be an issue in difficult vintages. Indeed, unlike the neighboring terrain of Dão, Bairrada is not protected by two mountain ranges against the inevitable Atlantic squalls.

“My father always liked Bairrada: the best wines are exceptional. But viticulture is difficult because it’s very close to the Atlantic Ocean, which brings a lot of humidity; Baga is very sensitive to botrytis,” says Daniel Niepoort, son of Dirk Niepoort. “However, the soil is super interesting – it reminds us of burgundy ore; even more, we could call Bairrada the ‘little Piemonte.’ Very chalky! So, you can make great wines with structure and freshness in a very elegant way.”

Niepoort underlines the wonderful upside to the region’s temperature climate and mild falls. Unlike many parts of southern Europe, drought and excessive ripeness is not usually an issue in Bairrada; some of Portugal’s freshest and raciest whites – and reds – emanate from the region. Moreover, there is a variety of exceptional quality soils in the zone, including the much-feted calcareous terroir of central Portugal. Almost without exception, the best wines tend to come from this porous (and permeable) clay-limestone terroir, responsible for the wine’s innate freshness and ‘bite.’

The lowdown

After years of neglect and decline, Bairrada has become the darling of buyers and sommeliers worldwide. The green and undulating region has a fabulous selling point in its indigenous vines, varieties reared for the Atlantic climate, and the environment itself. Although Baga is frequently compared to Nebbiolo, there is something quite Burgundian about red Bairrada; that ethereal perfume and crisp, juicy fruit nourish the soul. Moreover, the region’s wines offer moderate alcohol and beautiful freshness – two qualities consumers greatly desire more than ever. So it is little surprise that exports and recognition continue to grow. The global market, quite frankly, does not need any more bland Sauvignon Blanc. On the contrary: it demands originality, authenticity, and verve.

However, Bairrada, like all regions, has its fair share of controversies and arguments. Not everyone in Portugal is a fan of Baga or the country’s autochthonous grapes; scores of old bush vines were pulled out in the late 1900s as growers focused on internationally recognized varieties. The situation was compounded in 2003 when the appellation body permitted adding additional grape varieties into red Bairrada wines. Traditionally, Baga was not blended in the vineyards of Bairrada and Dão, which is quite unusual for Portugal. But some wineries, such as Quinta das Bageiras, blend in other grapes to make their reds more approachable. As a result, Touriga Nacional, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah are becoming more popular. And yet, for some, it is almost sacrilegious to use French grapes to standardize a unique Portuguese wine style.

Thankfully, there is a counter-movement to the slightly worrying obsession with using ubiquitous varietals to ‘smooth out’ Baga’s occasionally rough tannins; terroir character and nuance are arguably sacrificed in the process. Baga friends, a group of producers determined to champion the grape, have been very influential in stopping growers from removing any more of these remarkable old parcels. Slowly, the battle is being won.

Bairrada gastronomy

It is exceedingly easy to dine like a Portuguese monarch in the vineyards of Bairrada. The region has numerous culinary specialties, including ‘Leitao’ (roast suckling pig) and pork knuckle – recognize a theme here? – and a pork stew is known as ‘feijoada.’ The last delicacy, much-loved across central Portugal, is a spicy concoction of chorizo, various types of local sausage, and paprika. The Atlantic, meanwhile, provides a bounty of fresh seafood and shellfish: squid, mussels, oysters, langoustines, crab, and lobster can all be enjoyed in the region’s many excellent restaurants and tavernas.