Dao Wine Region Guide

Geography and terroir

Situated in central Portugal, Dão is one large granite plateau named after the river that runs through this very pretty region. The topography is spectacular: Dão’s vineyards are shielded from the warmer weather of the southeast by the Serra da Estrela mountain range. To the west of the region, the Serra do Caramulo mountains shelter the vineyards from the climatic influences of the Atlantic. As a result, the summer growing season tends to be warm and dry, albeit winters can see a healthy volume of precipitation. Nonetheless, overall rainfall is significantly lower in Dão than in neighboring Bairrada, which receives a great deal of welcome and unwelcome rainfall straight off the Atlantic coast.

However, this is only one part of the quality equation. Dão’s vineyards, planted on granite, schist, and sandy terroir, climb to almost 800 meters above sea level in some places – the average elevation ranges from 400 to 500m. This affords growers all the benefits of diurnal temperature variation (high day temperatures promoting sugar accumulation and cooler night temperatures preserving acidity) and, correspondingly, fresh and elegant wines. The best is characterized by real structure and freshness. They are almost Burgundian in their perfume and attractive finesse.

Winemaking and regional classifications

The Dão DOC (Denominação de Origem Controlada) was created as recently as 1990. Nevertheless, it has the buy in of most wine producers in the region, who have primarily eschewed the liberalism of the Vinho Regionale framework. As is usual in Portugal, however, a wide variety of grapes are permitted under the DOC rules; certain estates, like Quinta dos Roques and Quinta de Saes, have been experimenting with mono-varietal wines to critical – and consumer – acclaim.

Yet blending different varieties remains the backbone of winemaking in Dão, particularly the redoubtable concoctions of Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz. The former is arguably at its best in these granite hills, producing wines of dazzling perfume and finesse. The best examples will improve in bottle for over a decade, gaining depth and complexity as they age. Meanwhile, the full-bodied (and high-acid) Encruzado is a leading contender for central Portugal’s finest white grape. Pungent aromatics and beguiling freshness are its trademarks.

Of course, there is no standard winemaking paradigm in Dão. The only valid generalization concerns the transition from over-extraction to a gentler, softer approach to tannin management. Indeed, red wines made in the 1990s were astringent to the point of undrinkability – only after a decade would they become palatable. But this rusticity has been tamed with better viticulture and winemaking, resulting in a proliferation of balanced and juicy wines.

The lowdown

Is it the Atlantic-influenced climate that gives many of Dão’s wines a more ‘elegant’ feel than you’ll find elsewhere in Portugal? Or is it the metamorphic soils of this venerable region? It’s hard to say, although Dão now finds itself in a very enviable position, armed with a host of indigenous varieties, the region is producing wines that are very on trend: perfumed, balanced, and not excessively alcoholic. Reds, so far, lead the way, with Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Baga, and – thanks to a renewed interest in esoteric flavors – the colorfully-named Bastardo making waves abroad.

In addition, the Burgundian-style whites that undercut Puligny-Montrachet by several hundred dollars are finding a welcome home in cellars across Europe and the US. Thirty years ago, these badly-managed vineyards’ export potential was limited. Today, Dão is chomping at the heels of more entrenched appellations like Rioja, winning over key buyers and importers with its numerous charms. These highly individual modern wines beckon to be discovered.

Dão gastronomy

Like its neighbor Bairrada, Dão is a region committed to leisurely meals and fine gastronomy. Its passionate chefs, often working in family-owned businesses, are experts at putting on a grand culinary show, just as long as fresh ingredients and seasonal produce are on the menu! And so you’ll feast on ‘Leitao’ (roast suckling pig), ‘feijoada’ (a rich and hearty pork stew), and the always delicious ‘pastel de Molho da Covilh.’ Our favorite is filo pastry squares filled with meat slowly braised with onions and bay leaves. Just be careful, as they’re quite addictive. And, of course, Atlantic-caught seafood will feature heavily as well.