Alsace Wine Region Guide

Winemaking and regional classifications

The Alsatians continue to maintain heterodox views on the importance of varietal labeling. Alsace breaks the mold with a “New World” philosophy. Here, grape varieties (displayed prominently on labels) take center stage, unlike Burgundy, where brand or terroir reign supreme. This emphasis on grape variety might seem sacrilegious to Burgundians. However, Alsace makes up for it with its renowned consistency in quality. Although there are some substantial merchant operations and large wine co-operatives in the region, generally, the area is not a bulk wine creator. In every sense of the word, Alsace is unique among French vineyards.

Dry Riesling: Alsace’s Signature Elegance

Today, Alsace continues to produce a wide range of styles. These include traditional method sparkling, excellent rosé, fragrant Pinot Noir, and late-harvest or ‘Vendage Tardive’ dessert wine. Yet, for most consumers, Alsace is France’s premier source of dry Riesling. Historically, winemaking dynasties like the Hugel family would vinify their wines in large wooden casks. Fermentation temperatures would often climb above 75 Fahrenheit in their ancient cellars. Such an approach has its merits: it produces a very dry, steely expression of the Riesling grape, gaining complexity as it ages. Yet higher temperatures will inevitably burn out many of the aromatic compounds and fruity esters contained in the must.

Pinot Noir’s Allure

Mindful of contemporary expectations, some houses now ferment their wines in stainless steel at precisely controlled temperatures. This creates a very aromatic and fruit-forward style. Winemakers often treat other key varieties, like Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer, in a similar way. As a rule, the Alsatian approach is to eschew oak maturation; producers want fruit expression at the forefront of their wines. But there are exceptions: Pinot Noir and its white cousin can benefit from time in barrique. The former is now one of Alsace’s best sellers and a reliable alternative to red Burgundy.

Crémant d’Alsace: A Sparkling Gem with a Unique Identity

Crémant d’Alsace (the designation for local bubbly) is another highlight. The law mandates production through the traditional method, which involves a secondary fermentation in the bottle. This is the same way Champagne is made. However, growers work with a very different palette of grape varieties. These include Pinot Blanc, Silvaner, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Chasselas, and Auxerrois Blanc.Thus, the result tastes nothing like Champagne: Crémant d’Alsace is more pungent and fruity, with less autolytic complexity. Critics and buyers, however, regard top Crémant Rosé as equal to pink Champagne. It is always a 100% Pinot Noir style, made using the maceration method. Expect a cornucopia of red berry fruits and brilliant acidity – the ultimate summer aperitif. Unfortunately, the secret is out, and demand now outstrips supply.

Meanwhile, Alsace’s late-harvested dessert wines remain critically lauded, although global demand has slumped in recent years. The Vendage Tardive (VT) and Selection de Grains Nobles (SGN) wines, produced by leading estates, can rival top Sauternes in elegance. They offer remarkable depth and exceptional balance.

Geography and terroir

Alsace, with its charming villages and picturesque landscapes, boasts a spectacular topography. The vineyards are located east of Paris, about 60 miles north to south. To the west is the Vosges Mountains, the most important element in shaping Alsace’s wine culture. Indeed, thanks to the Vosges natural rain shadow, varieties like Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc can ripen in northeastern France; sunshine hours are high during the growing season, and rainfall is low. To the east of the Vignoble is the Rhine and the German border. Diurnal temperature variation and a temperate climate are responsible for the region’s famously fresh and crunchy fruit flavors – conscientious growers in Alsace seldom produce flabby wines. Alsace’s passionate growers take full advantage of these favorable natural conditions, a true blessing for their vineyards.

Alsace’s Winemaking Landscape

The area under vine stretches west of Strasbourg in the north to Mulhouse in the south, with the heart of the region centered around the town of Colmar. Strasbourg is the administrative capital of Alsace, with excellent transport links to the surrounding villages. Traditionally, Alsace has been divided into two subregions: Bas-Rhin and Haut-Rhin further south. The latter is where you can find the greatest concentration of top villages and vineyard sites, particularly Grand Crus. In some respects, the region resembles the Cote d’Or in Burgundy, as the finest sites are on the slopes of the Vosges, with well-drained, meager soils.

A Tapestry of Terroirs: Alsace’s Diverse Soils

Meanwhile, Alsatian terroir ranks among France’s most heterogeneous, encompassing schist, granite, clay-limestone, sandstone, and volcanic soils. Consequently, Alsace offers a wide spectrum of styles, with suitable terroirs for almost every grape variety. For example, Riesling has a strong affinity with granite terrain, while Pinot Noir thrives on calcareous marls.

Grand Cru Elegance: Alsace’s Treasured Vineyards

The crème de la crème of Alsatian terroir is the region’s 51 Grand Cru vineyards. Each climat has its own appellation, with strict rules covering variety, yield, and production methods. Some of the most famous crus include Altenberg, Brand (exceptional Riesling), Geisberg, Goldert (France’s finest Gewurtztraminer), Kirchberg, and Vorbourg. The last entry on the list produces utterly exquisite late-harvest dessert wines from the Muscat grape. These wines are a rival to First Growth Sauternes in structure and finesse.

The lowdown

Alsace has spent the last twenty-five years promoting its superlative wines to the world. Demand in the domestic market has always been relatively strong. Despite buoyant tourism, Bordeaux and Burgundy overshadowed Alsace for most of the 20th century. Unlike its rivals, this complex region did not overall appeal to wealthy collectors and connoisseurs. The upside is incredible value across the board. Alsace, despite offering an array of unique flavors and complex wines, remains underpriced for the quality it delivers. But, as exports continue to rise, more and more consumers are discovering just how magnificent Alsatian wine can be. This is increasingly essential, as younger French drinkers appear to be moving away from wine towards puritanical absenteeism – or seeking alternatives like beer and spirits.

Alsace’s Historical Position in the Wine Industry

Approximately 25% of the region’s annual production is sent abroad today: Scandinavia, the UK, and the US are key export markets. Alsace’s major advantage is the unprecedented global popularity of saline dry whites: Pinot Gris, Silvaner, and Pinot Blanc are three on-trend varieties that suit wine bars – and upmarket retailers – down to the ground. However, the region’s signature white style remains unfashionable despite the best efforts of critics, influencers, and buyers. For the moment, Riesling has yet to catch fire in the US, although niche demand is steady. Nevertheless, there is more work to be done here.

The Global Rise of Alsace Wines

Yet Crémant d’Alsace is on a roll. Alsace production of this underrated bubbly boomed from just over 3 million bottles in 1985 to over 32 million bottles today, and it’s still on the rise. The catalyst for this growth is changing attitudes to sparkling wine; consumers no longer limit their enjoyment to ‘special occasions.’ Today, an affordable bottle of premium fizz is a weekend treat, and Crémant d’Alsace delivers precisely what Millennials want: quality and value for money.

“Dopff Au Moulin (a leading brand of Crémant d’Alsace) has performed extremely well over the past year, in all UK markets – a testament to the wines they produce. We have found our hospitality customers often use Crémant as an alternative to Prosecco and many establishments will serve it by the glass as it sits at a lower price point and doesn’t compete with Champagne,” says Peter Doherty, a leading wine buyer based in London. He continues: “Whilst there will be differences in style, in the mind of the consumer the name Crémant invokes a good or high-quality sparkling wine made using the traditional method that is similar to Champagne, but not as expensive.

Crémant d’Alsace’s Growing Popularity

Currently, if you look at the major supermarkets, Crémant sits either at around the same price level or slightly above Prosecco. In the current economic climate, with high levels of inflation, consumer bills going up, and real wages decreasing, consumers will be looking even more for wines that have a great price-to-quality ratio (which we are already seeing in the on-trade). This creates a great opportunity for Crémant to increase its market share of the sparkling category as its price point is fantastic for the quality of wine you receive.” Thus, what was once a minor player in Alsatian wine has become an area of major commercial importance. Modern Alsace produces wines for those who collect unique tastes and don’t demand blockbusters. Crémant d’Alsace, delicious and affordable, is becoming a poster child for this historic vineyard’s renewed confidence and swagger. Long may it continue.

Alsace gastronomy

The variety of places in Alsace that offer a fine meal is enormous. Throughout the day, the ubiquitous cafes that fill every town and village are ideal for a coffee and snack. Colmar’s medieval streets are full of these charming institutions, surrounded by pastel-colored houses. But for something more substantial, seek out the region’s many excellent bistros, brasseries, and restaurants; Alsatian cuisine is rich, hearty, and immensely satisfying. Suffice it to say, one can detect Germanic influences in many regional classics, including the choucroute alsacienne: juniper-flavored sauerkraut paired with hot sausage, bacon, pork, and ham knuckle. Visitors swoon over fresh Flammekuche, a rectangular pizza topped with crème fraîche, thinly sliced raw onions, and lardons or small bacon strips. They also adore the delicious Coq au Riesling. Think of it as an Alsatian facsimile of Burgundy’s Coq au Vin.

Guide to Gastronomy for Alsace: Read more.