Cahors Wine Region Guide

Winemaking and regional classifications

Producers in Cahors consider Malbec to be one of the world’s finest red grape varieties. Of course, that view is not shared by everyone. However, it can undoubtedly yield memorable and appetizing wine: complex, tannic, and aromatic. Much will depend, though, on the quality of the clonal material – and, indeed, the winemaking. According to the appellation rules, a small percentage of Merlot and Tannat can be included in the final blend; Merlot’s primary role is to soften the tannins in cooler years. Yet the use of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc is forbidden by the regulations, which is a rare thing in southwest France.

Winemaking philosophies and attitudes towards maturation, for instance, vary widely within the zone, although the AOC legally sanctions the primary grape variety. Chateau du Cedre desires ripe fruit and soft, silky tannins in its wines; long hang times are fundamental to the approach at the winery, with berries harvested when they are on the cusp of phenolic overmaturity. Depending on the vintage, the winemaker may include a certain percentage of whole berries in the vat, although many estates elect to crush and destem all the fruit. A cold soak or pre-fermentation maceration can be used to extract color and tannin from the pomace; the technique is widely used today by winemakers in the Bordeaux region.

Fermentation will then commence. The choice between traditional oak vats, concrete, or stainless steel is highly personal: many prefer the temperature control offered by stainless steel, conducting a relatively slow fermentation below 75°F. Open fermentation with punch down is increasingly popular in Cahors, as it gives good color and flavor extraction. A post-fermentation maceration will mop up further tannins and soften those already present tannins.

This process will invariably be continued in French barrique, particularly if the winery is marketing a top-end prestige label. Like Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec has a natural affinity with oak; the flavors of toast and vanilla can integrate seamlessly with the grape’s black fruit profile. That said, much depends on the type of oak, the percentage of new wood used (if any), and the degree of toast. It is generally accepted that the better the grapes, the more oak the wine can sustain. Yet certain winemakers oppose using any new barrique, arguing that it overwhelms the wine and subjugates terroir character. Instead, they will age in used barrels, including larger 500-liter versions.

Geography and terroir

The beautiful vineyards of Cahors lie North of Toulouse and southeast of the Dordogne. They hug the banks of the River Lot for over 40 kilometers, with the most picturesque climats found to the west of Cahors town; Encompassing approximately 20 kilometers from north to south, the appellation is relatively small by the standards of Bordeaux. Indeed, there are just 4500 hectares of vines planted in the zone today – at its zenith, Cahors could boast over 48,000 hectares. Still, quality is more important than quantity in the international market for premium wine; Cahors Malbec is starting to appear on wine lists and retail stores outside of France as sommeliers move away from the “Mendoza or nothing” paradigm.

Nonetheless, the region has a favorable climate for quality wine growing. Generally, summers are warmer than Bordeaux’s, with less rainfall due to the increased distance from the Atlantic coast. As a result, vineyard diseases are not a major issue in Cahors, and fungal attacks are almost unheard of. Many producers have taken advantage of these benign conditions by converting to organic viticulture, as heavy doses of synthetic fungicides and pesticides are unnecessary in Quercy. This all bodes well for the late-ripening Malbec, a grape that requires great warmth and sunshine to reach optimal phenolic ripeness.

However, in a very hot years like 2018 and 2022, a lack of water can be an issue in Cahors. A certain amount of hydric stress is good for the vine: it forces the roots to dig deep in search of moisture while building up greater sugar reserves in the berries. Yet severe drought can cause the plant to stop photosynthesis and, by extension, completely halt the ripening process. In such circumstances, emergency irrigation may become a necessity.

Cahors’ most famous climats (vineyard sites) are found on three alluvial terraces above the river, of which the upper two are the most highly regarded for their wine. Some of the appellation’s most fragrant Malbec is made from these sandy soils, covered in stone fragments that reflect heat back into the vine canopy. However, the wines tend to mature very quickly, lacking the structure and power of Cahors’ best labels. This contrasts heavily with the stone limestone causses on the plateau, where the yields are much lower and the wines have more tannic structure and depth.

The lowdown

In the mid-20th century, Cahors was a pale shadow of its former self; the area under vine had shrunk dramatically after the frost attacks of 1956, exacerbated by the dire economic circumstances of the period. So it is little wonder that many families, particularly the younger generation, left the region searching for a better life. Yet the 1990s saw a role reversal of sorts, as Cahors attracted more than what seemed its fair share of investors – both French and international. Over the past two decades, they have transformed the appellation, building new wineries and hospitality centers and improving vineyard management. Thus, wine styles have evolved, with a new category of super-concentrated wines lavishly seasoned in new oak. When tasted blind among a selection of premium brands from Mendoza and Cahors, it can be challenging to determine when France begins and Argentina ends.

However, there are enough substantial differences between Côt and Argentine Malbec to present Cahors as a worthy point of difference. Even today, the critical mass of French Malbec offers a more vigorous, tannic, and herbaceous interpretation of this versatile grape; traditional styles of Cahors still rule the roost in the appellation despite the appearance of some very opulent wines. Nonetheless, some consumers may wonder if Cahors is starting to look better value than Mendoza Malbec. That is a very subjective topic; however, there is certainly no paucity of inexpensive and fruity Cahors wines to be drunk young. Meanwhile, the crème de la crème has a lovely intensity and balance, merging firm (but ripe) tannins with brightness and energy.

Today, there are clear signs that consumers beyond the borders of Quercy are more aware of Cahors and its singular wines. Listings are constantly growing, and critics and key influencers are on board. Forty years ago, it all looked a bit sad and humdrum in the vineyards of the River Lot. No longer: Cahors has become one of France’s stars in 2024, with more to come. Santé!

Cahors gastronomy

The winding streets of Vieux Cahors are densely packed with timber-fronted houses, galleried mansions, and excellent local restaurants. Uncomplicated rural cuisine is the name of the game in Quercy, often served in cozy kitchen-style dining rooms staffed by family members. Roast tarragon beef, seared slices of foie gras, and confit de canard are the perfect foil to a glass of plum-scented, delicious Malbec.