South of the city of Bordeaux are a collection of vineyards and appellations that belong to an overarching region broadly described as South West France. It is a vast area stretching from the town of Gaillac (northeast of Toulouse) to the Spanish border and French Basque Country. In the Middle Ages, the merchants of Bordeaux bestowed the (derisory) title of “High Country” on this vast landscape, determined to prioritize their wines at all costs. Today, it is one of France’s most dynamic yet seemingly timeless regions, where the pace of life grinds to a halt at weekends.
Behind the scenes, however, winegrowers are busy coaxing as much flavor as possible out of their indigenous wine grapes, many of which are specific to individual appellations. Although Bordeaux varieties are the mainstay of production in the Dordogne, the vast majority of southwestern France is home to local curiosities like Petit Courbu and Gros Manseng. For that reason, it has become the darling of sommeliers and niche importers worldwide. Read on if you’ve begun to tire of New World Merlot and ubiquitous Sauvignon Blanc.
Chateau des Milandes, which belonged to josephine baker
The undulating landscape of southwestern France, and particularly the Basque Country, is one part of Gaul that the Romans never managed to absorb into their hegemonic culture completely. Yet according to anthropologists, the Basque people inhabited the land southwest of Bayonne for at least 30,000 years. However, the city of Toulouse and its environs to the north, known as Tolosa during the height of the Western Roman Empire, did not share their isolation and defiance of Roman rule. People planted vines along the banks of the Tarn River and to the south in the Midi Pyrenees.
Tolosa and Roman Influence
However, after the fall of the empire in AD 476, chaos and anarchy reigned for over a century. The Visigoths controlled Toulouse until AD 507, while the Moors attempted to conquer southeastern France after successful campaigns in the Iberian Peninsula. Meanwhile, the Basques were able to shelter in the mountains and convert to Christianity in the 10th century.
Plantagenet Influence
By the 1200s, much of South West France fell under the jurisdiction of the Plantagenet kings after Henry II married Eleanor of Aquitaine in 1152. In the Middle Ages, Cahors, Gaillac, and other seminal wines of the South West were as celebrated as the (now) famous appellations of Bordeaux; winegrowing was organized mainly by the Benedictine and Cistercian monks. Wines were probably made in Gaillac and Cahors long before vines were cultivated downstream in Bordeaux. Indeed, in the early 1800s, Cahors was one of the most prestigious names in French winemaking.
Phylloxera and Resilience
Unfortunately, the advent of phylloxera in the late 19th century crippled the wine trade; this deadly louse, accidentally imported from the US, literally decimated the region’s vineyards with its poisonous bite. However, when scores of vines were regrafted onto American rootstock in the 20th century, most appellations resisted the temptation to plant common grape varieties like Merlot and Chardonnay. They preferred the age-old traditions of their ancestors. This has endowed the South West with a treasure trove of esoteric grapes and original wine flavors increasingly in short supply.
Geography and terroir
Irouleguy's terraced vineyards, Pays Basque
It is hard to imagine a more diverse and spectacular geographical area than Southwestern France’s mountains, hills, valleys, and plains. Indeed, the contrasts are staggering: the Dordogne and Gascony consist of gentle countryside and rolling hills, interspersed with some of France’s finest examples of medieval and Renaissance architecture – not to mention exquisite gastronomy! To the northeast of Toulouse are the vineyards of Gaillac and a similar style of French countryside that visitors love: rolling green pastures studded with beautiful towns and villages. In every sense of the word, life is very benign here. Winters are usually relatively mild – especially in Gaillac – and summers are warm and dry.
Pyrenean Influence
Yet everything changes as we move closer to the Spanish border – and the French Basque Country. Rising steadily from the Atlantic through mist and cloud, the western Pyrenees is a wild, untamed landscape that forms a 430-kilometer-long boundary between France and Spain. On the French side of the border, vines are grown on the steep Pyrenean foothills of Béarn in the appellation of Jurançon. The tiny enclave of Irouléguy is less than 55 kilometers away from the Atlantic. As an added bonus, it is tantalizingly close to the bustling tapas bars of Navarra. Like most southwestern wine regions, the sporadic hillside vineyards of Irouléguy are achingly beautiful. They are surrounded by lush green pastures, arable farming, and hilltop villages.
Climate and Grape Varieties
The Atlantic-influenced climate ensures that winters are cold and wet, while summer temperatures seldom reach the extremes routinely encountered in the Languedoc and Provence. For that reason, white grape vines thrive in these dramatic foothills, slowly ripening highly aromatic and concentrated fruit. Meanwhile, the red wines of the South West are as varied as those of Bordeaux. They range from the voluptuous Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon blends of Bergerac to the firm, refreshing Irouléguy reds packed full of acidity and verse.
Soil Diversity and Viticulture
However, this stylistic polarity is not solely due to the wide variations in climate (and grape variety). There are a multitude of soil types in southwestern France, including ancient sedimentary rocks and metamorphic material that heat and pressure have solidified.
Jurançon: clay-limestone soils dominate the lower foothills of the Pyrenees, with some tertiary period sand and Pliocene sandstone.
Gaillac: there is a preponderance of gravelly clay soils south of the Tarn River, while clay-limestone also dominates in the vineyards of the Dordogne.
Cahors: vines are cultivated on three alluvial terraces high above the River Lot. The highest-altitude sites (generally) produce the finest red wines: aromatic, floral expressions of the Malbec grape. Yet the rocky limestone plateau of western Cahors is increasingly coveted by winegrowers who desire structure and power in their wines.
Innovation and Trends
As elsewhere, single-vineyard bottlings and micro-production cuvées are becoming all the rage in South West France.
The Southwest boasts appellations and flavors as varied as any on earth, producing every conceivable style of wine in all three colors and varying weights. But perhaps the most familiar, at least to Bordeaux aficionados, are the red and white wines of the Dordogne. Centered upon the town of Bergerac, the wider region encompasses several small vineyard zones. In addition to the expansive Bergerac/Côte de Bergerac AOCs. Here, the grapes are the same as Bordeaux, albeit the warmer climate lends itself to a fuller, richer expression of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, with noticeably silky tannins.
Quality Surge in Bergerac
In recent years, quality has soared in Bergerac as investors continue to flock to the region; some of the greatest successes remain the potent blends of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. They bear more than a passing resemblance to the delicious dry whites of Graves, with an added dose of tropical fruit and a more prosperous, rounder texture. Montravel is another source of great value white in the Dordogne, while Pécharmant is celebrated for its full-bodied reds.
Monbazillac’s Enduring Sweetness
However, few would deny that Monbazillac is the most important appellation of the Dordogne, even if sweet wines are no longer the height of fashion. Nevertheless, this historic wine center has been producing botrytized dessert wines for centuries. It stands as one of the few places, alongside Sauternes, where one can rely on the botrytis mold to attack the berries in early fall. However, the rarely seen whites of Rosette are only slightly sweet in comparison and even less recognized than those of Monbazillac.
Cahors: The Potent Reds of the Southwest
The same cannot be said for Cahors and its wonderfully potent red wines that have been drunk since the Middle Ages. Argentina, of course, has adopted Malbec as its flagship grape variety, yet there is much to recommend in the vigorous, tannic concoctions known locally as Côt. Occasionally blended with Merlot and often matured in French barrique, Cahors offers a different interpretation and style of Malbec. The rusticity of the past has been tamed with better winemaking and vineyard work, while international investment has risen sharply over the past 25 years.
Gaillac’s Traditional Charm and Unique Grapes
Yet the vineyards surrounding the River Tarn, northeast of Toulouse, are another matter entirely. Seventy-three towns and villages comprise the little-known appellation Gaillac, a place of timeless beauty and tranquility. Unlike Cahors, global capital has not flowed into the wineries and cellars of this traditional region, where equipment and methods have not changed much in the 21st century. Nevertheless, its local grapes are of genuine interest, including the spicy local Braucol and the softer Duras. They are sometimes blended with Syrah to craft a very Rhone-like red: aromatic, fruit-driven, and moderately tannic wines that carry the scent of white pepper and plum.
Many wines are still fermented in old wooden vats in Gaillac, although stainless steel and new oak are making inroads in the zone. Traditionally, Galliac was known for its sweet whites, made from Limoux, Muscadelle, Sauvignon Blanc, and the esoteric Ondenc. But, as demand has fallen, more and more producers are marketing dry styles, including the gently effervescent Perlé.
Fronton’s Bright Reds and Negrette
Toulouse is fortunate to have a close viticultural neighbor in Fronton—less than 35 kilometers away and easily accessible for day trips. Situated between the Garonne and Tarn Rivers, Fronton is renowned for its bright and floral red wines. These wines are based on the obscure Negrette grape, mixed with many southwestern specialties. That theme continues in the majestic vineyards of Jurançon and Irouléguy, where growers produce a range of sweet and dry styles from grape varieties seldom encountered outside of France.
Jurançon and Irouléguy
Flanked by the spectacular foothills of the Pyrenees, Jurançon makes one of the Southwest’s most distinctive white wines, typically a blend of Gros Manseng, Petit Manseng, and perhaps Courbu. Dry versions are all the rage nowadays due to obvious commercial pressures. However, the sweet Moelleux dessert wines and Vendange Tardive still have a loyal (if dwindling) audience. Regrettably, Irouléguy is hardly ever seen outside of France, although tourists love this Basque appellation’s fragrant rosés and sappy reds. Meanwhile, the formidable Tannat grape reaches an apogee on the south-facing terraces of Irouléguy, planted at elevations that rise to 400 meters above sea level. The wine is typically fresh with bright fruit and relatively high acid.
There is no better expression of the all-conquering Gallic love affair than the Southwest’s diverse, authentic, and generally inexpensive wines. We live in a world of endless variety: superlative wines are now made in all corners of the globe by a growing number of talented winemakers. Yet, time and time again, consumers and sommeliers return to France. But why is that? Is it an intractable bias, the cachet, or snob value?
Rich Diversity and Exceptional Value
Let’s be glad of it, whatever the reason. With a fierce defiance of convention and a healthy suspicion of ubiquitous grapes (Bergerac is a notable exception), South West France has an incredible amount to offer. Making the most of their indigenous varieties and original tastes, Jurançon and Irouléguy Blanc can be superb. Likewise, the best wines of Bergerac and Cahors can deliver a lot of ‘Pomerol‘ seduction for remarkably little money, and both regions have enjoyed a hat trick of exceptional vintages of late. The best wines of Bordeaux’s Right Bank are undeniably expensive – some would say overpriced. However, the same cannot be said about the villages of the Dordogne. Granted, there is no paucity of delicious Cabernet/Merlot blends made in France or the New World. However, the quality-to-price ratio is exceedingly favorable in this rural idyll.
A Harmony of Acidity and Moderation
And there’s more. The vast majority of appellations specialize in producing wines of vibrant acidity and moderate alcohol – two qualities that keep wine drinkable, fashionable, and food-friendly. This is partly due to the inherent qualities of local grape varieties and the cooler climate of mountainous areas like the Pyrenees. Irouléguy, for example, can yield red wines of mouth-puckering acidity in cooler years; this would be impossible in Provence and the Languedoc. Yet Bergerac (red and white), Jurançon, and Cahors are generally attractive at a young age. Indeed, oenophiles do not often explore their keeping qualities, even though many labels can improve after five years in bottle and sometimes more.
Viticultural Excellence and Global Standing
Of course, when discussing such a vast geographical area, generalizations are inevitable. Moreover, we cannot claim that every appellation and producer is at the top of their game. But the leading estates, which are growing in number, can surpass the world for elegance and a uniqueness of taste.
Explore Gaillac & Fronton: Uncover France's hidden wine gems with unique local grapes, rich history, and serene landscapes. A true connoisseur's delight. Read more
Discover the distinctive wines of Irouléguy & Jurançon, offering a taste of France's Pyrenees with unique reds, whites, and rosés. Explore now Read more
Petit Manseng is a white grape grown mainly in the South West of France that produces high-quality sweet wines. It's one of France's best-kept wine secrets.
Braucol is a dark-skinned grape from southwest France, notably in Marcillac AOC, producing rustic, medium-bodied reds with flavors of redcurrant, fig, and pepper. It's essential in Marcillac blends, needing to comprise at least 90% of them, and contributes to Gaillac wines. Originating possibly from Spain's Basque country or from wild grapes, Braucol faced decline during the phylloxera crisis but revived with Marcillac's mining boom
Duras, an ancient vine from France, is renowned for robust red wines in Gaillac, featuring dark colors and rich aromas. Now mainly found in the Tarn department, it's essential to Gaillac reds, often blended with Fer Servadou and Syrah.
Négrette, a distinctive grape from Fronton, France, traces its origins to Cyprus, reputed for its violet-scented red and rosé wines. Thriving in hot, dry conditions and iron-rich soils, it's central to Fronton AOC, demanding at least 50% in blends. While often mixed with grapes like Syrah to improve structure, its unique qualities shine in single-varietal wines.
Tannat, a robust grape from the Basque country, is famed for producing rich, rustic wines in Madiran, France, and has found notable success in Uruguay, where it's adapted to create softer wines. Central to Madiran AOC, it requires over 50% in blends, with modern techniques like micro-oxygenation used to enhance its approachability.
South West France gastronomy
Gâteau Basque is a traditional dessert from Basque region of France
This is one of those rare occasions where the food really is as good as the wine! For what could be better than luxuriously lazy lunches – a feast of foie gras, wild duck flambéd in Armagnac, chicken stuffed with black truffle, and, to finish, Gateau Basque? Before dinner, sip a glass of tart Irouléguy Blanc and enjoy slice after slice of mouthwatering Bayonne ham. It simply does not get any better than this.
With a passion for food & drink that verges on the obsessive, wine writer James Lawrence has traveled the world in search of the perfect tipple. To date, nothing has surpassed the 1952 R. Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Rioja Reserva, tasted in the cobweb-filled cellars with owner María José. Meanwhile, James has been writing for a wide variety of publications for over 12 years, including Telegraph, Decanter, Harpers, The Drinks Business, and Wine Business International. He lives in South Wales and returns to his former university city, Bilbao, as much as possible.
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