Saint-Émilion Wine Region Guide

Geography and terroir

The handsome town of Saint-Émilion occupies a limestone rise above the surrounding vineyards, with the Dordogne River lying to the south. Behind it, on the sand-and-gravel plateau, vines flow steadily into Pomerol in the west. They swoop down steep limestone slopes (the côtes) into the plain. To the north, meanwhile, are the Barbanne stream and the neighboring appellations of Saint-Georges-Saint-Émilion, Montagne-Saint-Émilion, Lussac-Saint-Émilion, and Puisseguin-Saint-Émilion – ‘satellite’ appellations that increasingly make excellent value wine.

The climate is quintessential Right Bank Bordeaux: a marriage of continental and maritime influences characterized by warm-to-hot summers and damp springs. The average rainfall is approximately 800 millimeters, although recent trends have brought higher temperatures and an increased risk of summer heat and drought. Conditions vary considerably between vintages.

The Diverse Soils of Saint-Émilion

But Saint-Émilion is very much defined by its soils: there are three key subzones within the appellation, each boasting unique conditions that influence the final wine style. A privileged club of châteaux, including Figeac and Cheval Blanc, lies on the border of Pomerol, on the western edge of the appellation’s sandy and gravelly plateau. This terroir’s best wines are utterly splendid, beautifully balanced, and last almost as long as the First Growths of Pauillac. Cabernet Franc thrives here, producing very perfumed and elegant wines.

A Unique Terroir for Merlot

The other key winegrowing area is formed by the côtes, or limestone slopes, around Saint-Émilion, which occupies the escarpment around and to the east of the town. This calcareous soil is perfect for growing Merlot, although the wines are not as fruity as those from the plateau. Yet, at their best, they are among Bordeaux’s most perfumed and generous wines. They can be plumper and riper than many Médoc wines, although style and alcohol levels vary considerably by site and vintage.

Finally, Chateau Pavie, Larcis-Ducasse, and others make their home on the slopes that extend southwest towards the Dordogne River. The terroir is very heterogeneous: vineyards are cultivated on varying proportions of limestone, clay, and sandy terrain, producing wines that vary considerably in structure, ripeness, and finesse.

Winemaking and regional classifications

At the heart of every bottle of Saint-Émilion is a beguiling marriage of fruit, structure, freshness, and depth. Many Saint-Émilion wines become approachable earlier than their Médoc counterparts, although the greatest examples can evolve for decades. The quintessential Saint-Émilion has ripe tannins, a solid taste, and bags of sweet and savory fruit. They are among the most popular red wines in the world.

Key to Success

But what is the secret to Saint-Émilion’s success? Much depends on the fruit quality: the plump Merlot and elegant Cabernet Franc dominate in these vineyards. This is largely because the noble red grape of the Médoc, Cabernet Sauvignon, can have problems ripening in this climate (it is less tempered by the ocean), especially in its damper, cooler soils. Thus, Merlot has long formed the backbone of almost all Saint-Émilion reds, juxtaposed against the perfume and spice of Cabernet Franc.

Diverse Winemaking Techniques

Winemaking preferences in the appellation, of course, can vary greatly depending on the vintage and priorities of the individual château. Angélus, for example, embraces a policy of rich fruit extraction, using all means at its disposal:

• Rigorous berry selection
• Cold soak (pre-fermentation maceration)
• Vinification in stainless steel and concrete
• Maturation in new barrique for over 18 months

The resulting wine is massively concentrated and powerful, with new oak always prominent on the nose. Other properties, such as Pavie, seem to be aiming for hyper-concentration and massive alcohol, two qualities that have arguably fallen out of fashion. But, for every Chateau Pavie, there is a Figeac: an exemplar of balance and poise with harmoniously integrated wood.

Experimentation and Dynamism

Nevertheless, Saint-Émilion has long been a hotbed of experimentation and dynamism. Micro-oxygenation is employed by many châteaux (using controlled amounts of oxygen to soften tannins). At the same time, Michel Rolland’s persuasive influence is still felt in the philosophy of late-harvesting and prolonged hang times, with a pursuit of phenolic maturity at all costs. But does it lead to better wines? That is the million-dollar question.

The lowdown

Saint-Emilion is facing two existential challenges in the 21st century. The first concern is global warming and its impact on ripeness and alcohol levels; several winemakers in the Right Bank have admitted that it is becoming difficult to produce elegant Merlot wines in light of such hot, dry summers.

Stephanie Barousse, deputy CEO of Château de la Dauphine in Fronsac, told journalists in 2021,

“while I love the generosity of ripe Merlot, I am worried about rising alcohol levels.” She also said: “Over the past few vintages, we’ve been seeing wines with 15% alcohol: its tendency to ripen early can be a problem in hotter years. I don’t want my abv levels to become unbalanced, so we’re going to use more Cabernet Franc in upcoming vintages, as it ripens later.”

The second is the viability of the classification framework in its current form. The 1955 initiative was a pioneering move for Bordeaux and is to be much admired. Indeed, although this well-regulated system is not without its controversies, it has been a force for good in encouraging underperforming châteaux to up their game.

For example, every classified property in 2006 had to submit a detailed dossier justifying their re-inclusion and, if promotion was sought, the reasons for it. Château Angélus and Pavie are two iconic estates that have benefited from the hierarchy; they were elevated from Premier Grands Crus Classé B to Premier Grands Crus Classé A in 2012.

Yet estates have also been demoted, including Châteaux Sansonnet and Grand-Corbin-Despagne in 1996. More recently, four properties (Cadet-Bon, La Marzelle, Château La Tour du Pin Figeac, and Château Guadet) challenged their demotion in 2007, claiming that the classification oversight was flawed and prone to bias. The presiding judge ruled in their favor, and the framework was temporarily suspended that year.

The Withdrawal of Key Producers

And yet, Saint-Émilion’s pioneering classification has survived until this day. However, three of the appellation’s most important producers—Ausone, Cheval Blanc, and Angélus—declined to participate in the 2022 classification. Their withdrawal from the process was a significant blow to the system’s prestige. So why did they do it?

Part of the problem is the metric used to assess viability for inclusion, which has been expanded to include press coverage and social media engagement. In Bordeaux, reactionary attitudes can prevail, and this new criterion was rejected by the owners of Ausone and its neighbors.

In addition, Angélus owner Hubert de Boüard became embroiled in controversy when a Bordeaux criminal court convicted him of an illegal conflict of interest connected with the 2012 classification. Part of the family’s response was to withdraw Angélus from the framework, claiming it was no longer worth their time. Can the syndicate heal this rift between its star players and the council? Only time, as they say, will tell.

Saint-Emilion gastronomy

It’s a warm summer morning, and the town is awakened to the most seductive sights and smells imaginable. Seasoned traders are the culprits, bustling in the town square to assemble a myriad of local produce for sale, including ham, freshly baked bread, wine, olives, and an array of delicious cheeses. This is Saint-Émilion during market day; few places in France do it better.

Meanwhile, eager visitors – and locals – search for their favorite restaurant, serving mouthwatering cuisine that doesn’t break the bank. Local specialties include Saint-Émilion macarons, lamprey à la bordelaise, entrecôte grilled over vine cuttings, duck, lamb, and seasonal mushrooms.

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