Côtes de Bourg Wine Region Guide

Winemaking and regional classifications

Bourg is not a region dominated by major brands and international conglomerates. Indeed, family-run estates are the mainstay of Bourg’s economic and social life, and the average size of a typical farm is under 12 hectares. Nevertheless, the quality of winemaking has improved considerably in recent times, while yields have been lowered in the pursuit of quality. Some growers have been slow to catch on, but the simple truth is that consumer tolerance for green, diluted Bordeaux at low prices has all but evaporated. People would rather pay a little more, albeit less frequently, and drink a good quality bottle of wine. That necessitates moderate yields, green harvesting, leaf pulling, and rigorous selection in the cellar. Unripe berries should be discarded, and yields should be no higher than 55 hectoliters per hectare.

Evolution of Winemaking Practices

The traditional approach in Bourg emphasized a lengthy maceration in old wooden vats at high temperatures. Unfortunately, this could produce a very tough and tannic style of red, as the clay-rich terroir naturally gives powerfully structured wines; over-extraction was a hallmark characteristic of Bourg winemaking until the early 20th century. Thankfully, the quality-conscious estates have invested in the latest cellar equipment, and it shows. Green tannins were also a concomitant of early harvests, conducted in a rush at the behest of the cooperatives. However, their power and influence have diminished significantly as producers increasingly bottle their wines at the source.

Innovations and Excellence

Château Brulesécaille is just one of many properties now producing exceptional wines in Bourg. Much of this is down to the meticulous winemaking at the estate: hand-harvested Merlot is subject to a cold soak (pre-fermentation maceration) to extract gentle tannins, further softened with some micro-oxygenation. The wines undergo vinification in steel tanks and age for at least 12 months in 25-30% new oak. Meanwhile, the chateau ferments and ages its superb Sauvignon Blanc white in about 50% new wood. The results in bottle speak for themselves: fruit-driven wines with good structure and beautiful freshness.

Geography and terroir

The Côtes de Bourg is found northwest of Libourne on the right bank of the Gironde estuary. The area under vine is considerably smaller and more compact than Blaye: Côtes de Bordeaux, and many critics regard the wines of Bourg as being innately superior. That may or may not be accurate. However, the best producers are in the same league as the Cru Bourgeois of the Haut-Medoc.

From Sweet Whites to Red Dominance

In 1936, the Côtes de Bourg received the prestigious AOC status for its red wines, followed by its white wines in 1945. Although historically, both Bourg and Blaye were celebrated for their sweet white wines, today, only about 40 hectares in Bourg are dedicated to white grape varieties. The dominant red variety is now Merlot, a flexible grape that suits the climate and soils far better than Cabernet Sauvignon. The latter can be challenging to ripen here unless the soils have a high percentage of gravel topsoil.

The Cabernet Conundrum & Beyond

Nevertheless, a small percentage of Cabernet is usually included in the blends, topped up with Cabernet Franc and even Malbec – almost unheard of in the Medoc. But growers in Bourg are more fond of this variety than their counterparts on the Left Bank, producing herbal and spicy wines from Argentina’s flagship style. It is known locally as Côt.

Exploring the Landscape

Across 15 communes surrounding Bourg, like Comps, Lansac, Mombrier, and Tauriac, there are approximately 1,640 hectares of vines. Similar to Blaye, clay-limestone dominates the soils, though patches of gravel and sand also exist. Thanks to the proximity of the Gironde, frost and hail do not occur frequently in Bourg, even during cold winters.

Natural Defenses

Nevertheless, grapes tend to ripen at a slower pace than in the Left Bank, as the macroclimate is cooler overall. Blessed with omnipresent breezes, the Côtes de Bourg enjoys natural protection against fungal diseases, allowing for denser vine plantings that limit the need for mechanization. Most agree that the finest sites are located on the slopes overlooking the estuary, where south-facing climats produce ripe and healthy grapes. However, don’t overlook the inland areas that produce excellent wines.

The lowdown

Like so many appellations in France, Côtes de Bourg has a chequered and complex history. For most of the latter half of the 20th century, its community of winegrowers resigned themselves to a fate unworthy of such noble soils and grape varieties. That fate involved selling mediocre wines, based on fruit cropped at high yields, to the powerful negociants of Bordeaux; their generic blends, available at all good supermarkets and discounters worldwide, relied on cheap wines from Bordeaux’s less exalted regions. Yet the market for these budget labels started to dwindle in the late 1980s, much to the chagrin of the merchant houses.

New Generation’s Influence

At the same time, an influx of younger growers, seduced by the availability of (relatively) cheap land, started to migrate towards Blaye and Bourg. However, they drastically lowered yields and renovated and rebuilt dilapidated cellars, refusing to follow in their parents’ footsteps.

Innovation and Investment

Inspired by pioneers like Francois Mitjaville (he also owns Chateau Tertre-Roteboeuf in Saint-Emilion), more investors started to purchase vineyards in the zone. They have achieved nothing less than a complete rejuvenation of Bourg’s reputation, proving that the appellation can make wines as perfumed and structured as their more famous Right Bank cousins. Today’s finest Bourg reds showcase pure fruit, a firm yet ripe structure, and finesse. A mature vintage will showcase all of Merlot’s tertiary characteristics – a mosaic of sweet red fruits, black truffles, leather, and tobacco. Forget about speculating or investing: Côtes de Bourg wines are made to be enjoyed.

Bourg gastronomy

Bourg is not a place to see and be seen. Quite the opposite, in fact: it has all the glamor and glitz of a station wagon. However, there are some excellent restaurants in the various towns and villages of the appellation, dishing up straightforward Bordeaux fare in convivial surroundings. Many source their produce from local covered markets, such as fresh oysters, Atlantic fish, duck, and Medoc lamb. The best venues are bustling bistros with enticing smells and a changing blackboard menu of seasonal delights.

A Gastronomy Guide to the Cuisine of Bordeaux: Read more