Blaye Wine Region Guide

Geography and terroir

The vineyards of Blaye cover more than 5000 hectares of high-potential land to the east of the Gironde estuary. During medieval times, these vineyards generated significant wealth, as regions like the Medoc were still undeveloped, and there was easy access to northern Europe. Of course, the great appellations of Margaux and Pauillac have since overtaken Blaye in both fame and fortune.

However, some excellent wines are now being made here, notwithstanding a rocky patch! The area under vine extends east from the port of Blaye to the pretty village of St-Christoly-de Blaye, spreading north and south from its boundaries. Moreover, unlike the uninspiring flat landscape of the Medoc, Blaye is a very green and undulating region, with variances in elevation and aspect keenly exploited by the zone’s talented winegrowers.

Shift in Grape Varieties

Historically, Blaye was used as a ‘white wine factory,’ producing large volumes of Colombard and Ugni Blanc that were shipped to Charentes for distillation into Cognac. But Merlot is now the key grape variety of Blaye, accounting for over 65 percent of the total surface area, followed by Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Malbec. Blaye also has a small amount of Petit Verdot and Carmenere, with the latter variety being unwelcome and almost despised in the vineyards across the estuary.

Meanwhile, the acreage dedicated to Sauvignon Blanc increases yearly, as the market for affordable Bordeaux Blanc is extremely buoyant in Europe, the US, and emerging Asian markets. This versatile grape is typically blended with a smaller amount of Muscadelle and/or Semillon in addition to Colombard. Today’s most important communes are Blaye, Plassac, St-Paul, Marcilla, Reignac, St-Ciers and St-Palais.

Diverse Soil Types and Terroir

Much like Saint-Emilion and Bourg, there is a wealth of clay-limestone in the soils of Blaye, which suits both Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot down to the ground. Yet the terroir varies: the northern sectors of the zone have more gravel, leading to more planting of Cabernet Sauvignon, which thrives in warmer soils. Generally, the vineyards surrounding Blaye tend to ripen first – and have much less risk of frost damage – while vines around the village of St-Ciers to the north ripen later than other areas. Around the commune of St-Savin, you’ll find sandier soils that yield soft, fruity red wines for immediate consumption.

Winemaking and regional classifications

In this sizable region, the vignerons of Blaye produce wines of all three colors, including some of Bordeaux’s best-value rosé. Yet the various appellations within the region can lead to confusion. So it’s important to remember that the most important designation, in terms of volume at least, is Blaye: Côtes de Bordeaux.

Indeed, most wines will reference that appellation on the front label; reds are a blend of any of the following: Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc. Meanwhile, the best whites will typically contain at least 60-70 percent Sauvignon Blanc, a variety that thrives on the cool limestone soils of lower Blaye.

White Wines

In addition, the little-used Côtes de Blaye title will occasionally make an appearance – this is for white wines only and will often incorporate Colombard and Ugni Blanc. The long-standing Blaye AOC has not been abandoned yet; however, its significance has diminished as growers have embraced the Côtes de Bordeaux framework. Unfortunately, rosé wines are only eligible for the generic, pan-regional Bordeaux AOC. Still, it does not seem to have hurt sales!

Modernization

As elsewhere, sustained investment has had a lasting impact on the quality of Blaye wines: modern equipment and new barrels are now familiar sights at all the leading properties. Château Bel-Air La Royère exemplifies this renewed emphasis on quality, using hand-harvested grapes to produce its excellent Grand Vin Rouge. After vinification in cement and stainless steel tanks, the wine is aged for at least 16 months in around 70-80% new wood. The resulting wines are rich and structured, with a distinct spiciness, good freshness, and firm tannins.

Château Bertinerie

However, if your preferences lean more towards Bordeaux Blanc, you must try the brilliant (and incredible value) whites of Château Bertinerie. The estate’s signature white cuvée, Haut-Bertinerie, is based on a select parcel of very old Sauvignon Blanc vines, cropped at no more than 42 hectoliters per hectare.

Producers ferment hand-harvested berries in about 80% new French barriques and regularly perform Bâtonnage (lees stirring) for 11 months. What emerges in your glass is an aromatic, elegant white of immense weight and complexity, with ample fruit, a waxy texture, and a long finish. Wines such as Haut-Bertinerie Blanc have put Blaye on the international map. Particularly as they can rival Pessac-Leognan in quality but never in price.

The lowdown

At first glance, there is nothing to tempt – or excite – the seasoned oenophile in the hills of Blaye. The region has undergone a revolutionary change in quality and winemaking in the 21st century, a statement that applies to many appellations in Bordeaux as well. The zone’s winemakers are marketing delicious red and white blends, led by Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc, that offer tremendous value for money; so too are producers in Bourg, Graves, Fronsac, and Entre Deux Mers.

This is the biggest irony about the resurgence of ‘minor’ Bordeaux—the continued rise in quality makes it harder for individual chateau and regions to stand out. And, unlike Pauillac and Saint-Emilion, there is no established classification framework to fall back on.

Unique Attributes

Yet Blaye does have one or two unique attributes. Wine geeks may find it interesting to learn that in Blaye, Côt (the local synonym for Malbec) is considered a noble red variety, a view not widely shared elsewhere in Bordeaux.

However, this bias deserves to be challenged, as Malbec can produce impressive results outside of Argentina if the soils and winemaking meet the required standards. Château Bel-Air La Royère and Château Bellevue-Gazin use about 20-25 percent Malbec in their Grand Vin. This variety contributes perfume, vigor, and a certain exotic quality to the best reds of Blaye.

2016 Vintage

The superlative 2016 vintage saw certain winemakers include up to 35% Malbec in their red blends, as at Château Bel-Air La Royère. It forms a very harmonious partnership with Merlot – the former brings spice and richness, and the latter offers supple, plummy fruit and opulence. Hell, winegrowers in Blaye have made Colombard sing, a grape variety almost universally regarded as subpar.

But it yields highly aromatic and fruity wines in the calcareous soils of Blaye: wines with an immediate charm and drinkability. Granted, they cannot rival the longevity of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon; however, that scarcely matters in an impatient world.

Indeed, very few destinations in Bordeaux manage to coax such finesse out of Malbec and such vibrant aromatics out of Colombard. Nevertheless, Blaye is one of them. For that reason alone, this dynamic region is worthy of our attention and respect.

Blaye gastronomy

The restaurants of Blaye are unlikely to attract the attention of globally renowned chefs or the jet-setting glitterati. Nevertheless, there is much to recommend in the wholesome, seasonal cooking of the Gironde; fresh from the estuary – and ocean – seafood proliferates on menus, of course, in addition to milk-fed lamb, foie gras, and confit du canard.

A Gastronomic Guide to the Cuisine of Bordeaux: Read more