Tras-os-Montes Wine Region Guide

Geography and terroir

Local farmers have a saying: “Tras-o-Montes is the land of ten months of winter and two months of hell.” It’s a publicist’s worst nightmare – a less-than-ringing endorsement of the growing conditions in this part of the world. But the region’s producers aren’t simply being hyperbolic. Tras-o-Montes suffers from bitterly cold winters and sweltering summers; thunderstorms in July and August also happen with alarming regularity. And yet, quality wine growing is far from an impossibility in this part of northeastern Portugal.

The vineyards are situated east of the Marao, Alvao, and Geres mountains, isolated from the coastline in an expansive valley that flanks the Douro River. To the north is Galicia, and to the southwest is Baixa Corgo (one of the key subzones of the Douro). However, there is an advantage to this geographical isolation: although thunderstorms can be an issue in the summer, Tras-o-Montes is still protected from the worst excesses of Atlantic weather by the chain of mountains that act as a rain shadow – the Voges mountains perform the same role in Alsace.

Yet, due to the expansive area under vine, it is challenging to make generations about terroir in Tras-o-Montes. The consensus, however, is that the best climats (vineyard sites) tend to flank the region’s four rivers: Douro, Sabor, Tua, and Tamega. Vines are planted on well-drained soils with a predominance of metamorphic schist and granite – there is also some chalk in certain places. As elsewhere, the most important quality factor is arguably elevation: higher-altitude sites produce wines with more freshness, less alcohol, and brighter fruit. They are particularly suited to the cultivation of white grape varieties.

Winemaking and regional classifications

The vast majority of growers fly the flag of the Tras-o-Montes DOC, a very liberal framework that allows a wide range of styles to be produced: red, white, and rosé. Moreover, due to the region’s relative obscurity, there is an abundance of delicious – and attractively-priced – wine up for grabs. So if you find top Bordeaux ludicrously expensive, you’ve come to the right place.

Generalizations about local winemaking are, therefore, impossible or at least inadvisable. Attitudes and winemaking philosophies run the whole gamut, from ultra-protective juice handling to traditional (rustic might be a more accurate term) fermentations in old oak vats. Certain producers eschew wood in all stages of the vinification, while others mature their Portuguese red blends in barrique. Valle Pradhinhos, for example, has adopted temperature-controlled fermentations for its red and white wines.

Unlike the Burgundians, winegrowers in Tras-o-Montes have never undertaken a codified delineation of their best vineyards. However, the area under vine is divided into three key subregions: Chaves, Planalto Mirandès, and Valpaços. Close to the Spanish border, Chaves is renowned for its granite and schist soils, lying at elevations of between 250-300 meters above sea level. Some excellent whites are made here, mostly from the Viosinho grape. Meanwhile, the vineyards of Planalto Mirandès are found on a plateau in the southwest corner of the zone. With an altitude rising to 600 meters, this is an ideal place to make fresh and fragrant reds, brimming with ripe acidity. However, the warmer mesoclimate of Valpaços lends itself to a richer, plumper style of wine.

The lowdown

In 2022, thousands of buyers, critics, sommeliers, and importers assembled in the German city of Düsseldorf. They had gathered together to attend ProWein, the wine industry’s seminal global trade fair. It was quite a sight: buzzing halls packed with hundreds of winemakers from locations as diverse as India and Moldova. And yet, in a (relatively) quiet corner of this dynamic event, just one grower from Tras-o-Montes had bothered to show up: Quinta do Sobreiró de Cima. This suggests that the region has a long way to go before it conquers the hearts and minds of consumers worldwide.

Indeed, today’s theme in Portugal is sustainable growth, both in terms of limiting the environmental impact of wine growing and reaching new customers abroad. For a long time, Portugal has relied on domestic demand to keep its wine industry afloat. Yet this is no longer viable with an aging population and younger consumers drinking less. But there is some good news: according to the national marketing body Viniportugal, exports of Tras-o-Montes wines are growing, albeit from a small base. The question is whether enough producers have the capital to promote their region to an international audience that is spoiled for choice.
Of course, Rome was not built in a day. While the Douro has been exporting bottles for centuries – hence really no news to anybody – the wines of Tras-o-Montes are still scarcely known outside their home country. Who knew, for example, that Tras-o-Montes is full of ancient lagares (stone ‘baths’) built by the Romans to make wine? Or that Tras-o-Montes produces its version of Riesling, based on the delectable – and always fresh – Viosinho grape. An incredible variety of terroirs is waiting to be explored, with an exciting wave of new plantings shaking up this once unvarying region. Some producers are sticking to indigenous varieties, while others are experimenting with Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. They are trying everything – and so should we.

Tras-os-Montes gastronomy

Rich and hearty is a fair summation of local gastronomy. Until recently, chefs had to be self-sufficient, with few imported ingredients. Waste, an indulgence of rich nations, has never been allowed in this isolated rural idyll. So every part of the animal is used in Tras-o-Montes’ kitchens, especially in the rich stews: ubiquitous in winter. Alheira, a type of cured sausage made with pork, veal, duck, rabbit, or chicken, is served in every Tasca in the region. Wild boar is another local specialty, as is Posta Mirandesa. As with many culinary delights, the beauty of this dish is its simplicity. A thick veal steak, based on ethically-sourced meat, is seasoned and then cooked over charcoal before it is served with potatoes. The depth of flavor defies words.