Insider’s Guide to Truffles in Italy

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Truffles are a gourmet delicacy, one of the most expensive and desired in the world. Foodies swoon over them, and top international chefs search for them and bid for them at auction. In Italy, the season depends on which truffle you are after. Autumn brings prized white truffles, while different black varieties appear in winter and summer.

Although truffles are in high demand and widely appreciated, they still hold a bit of mystery for many. So we decided to chat with some of the professional truffle hunters and producers we work with across Italy and ask the questions our “tartufi”-loving guests ask us all the time. We spoke to Natale and Giorgio Romagnolo in Piedmont, Cristiano Savini in Tuscany, and Saverio and Gabriella Bianconi in Umbria.

What are truffles?

Truffles are underground fungi belonging to the ascomycetes. They grow symbiotically with the roots of certain trees and require particular soil and climatic conditions. They have an outer part called the “peridio,” which can vary in texture and color depending on the truffle, and an inner, pulpy part called the “gleba.”

The word “truffle” comes from Latin. It comes from the word “tuber,” which means “lump.”

Where do you find truffles in Italy?

White truffle, the precious Tuber magnatum, is neither common nor easy to find. In Italy, it grows in Piedmont and several other regions, including Tuscany, Marche, and Umbria. It is also found elsewhere in Europe, including Croatia, Slovenia, Serbia, and Hungary. Among Italy’s most celebrated white-truffle centers are Alba, Acqualagna, and San Miniato.

Where	Region	Type	When
Alba	Piedmont	Precious white truffle, Tuber magnatum	Autumn into early winter
San Miniato	Tuscany	Precious white truffle, Tuber magnatum	Autumn into early winter
Acqualagna	Marche	Precious white truffle, Tuber magnatum	Autumn into early winter
Norcia	Umbria	Precious winter black truffle, Tuber melanosporum	Winter into early spring

* Match your visit to the variety you want to taste, and confirm the local season before making plans.

When is truffle season in Italy?

Italy’s white-truffle season falls in autumn and early winter. For precious black truffles, look to winter and early spring; summer black truffles have their own season. Exact harvesting dates vary by region and species.

Italy recognizes nine types of truffle for sale fresh, including named varieties. Each kind of truffle has its own season. Here are some of the main varieties you are likely to encounter:

Truffle type	Scientific name	Broad seasonal guide
Precious white truffle	Tuber magnatum	Autumn into early winter
Precious black / Norcia truffle	Tuber melanosporum	Winter into early spring
Summer black / scorzone	Tuber aestivum	Summer, with additional autumn collection in some regions
Autumn black / uncinato	Tuber aestivum var. uncinatum, also listed as Tuber uncinatum	Autumn into early winter
Bianchetto / marzuolo	Tuber borchii	Late winter and spring
Winter black truffle	Tuber brumale	Winter into early spring
Smooth black truffle	Tuber macrosporum	Autumn into early winter

These are broad seasonal indications. Legal harvesting dates vary by region and species, and availability also depends on the weather. Check the current regional calendar before arranging a truffle-hunting visit.

For example, Piedmont’s published calendar permits white-truffle collection from October 1 to January 31, while Marche’s runs from October 1 to January 15. Piedmont prohibits all truffle collection during September and May. You can consult the official calendars for Piedmont and Marche when planning your visit.

How are truffles created, and how do they grow?

We need to dust off those biology books we studied at school! Like all fungi, truffles come from spores. These germinate into fine filaments called hyphae, which form a network known as mycelium. The fungus forms a partnership with the tree’s fine roots, called mycorrhiza. The tree supplies sugars, while the fungus helps it obtain water and mineral nutrients. Under suitable conditions, the fungus produces its underground fruiting bodies: the truffles.

Because truffles grow underground, they cannot spread spores in the air, so they have a distinctive, strong scent. This aroma attracts insects and mammals that eat the truffles and help disperse their spores.

White truffles grow in association with trees including poplar, oak, linden, and hazel. Suitable soil conditions and moisture are essential, but their requirements cannot be reduced to a single temperature.

What are the differences between black and white truffles?

The main difference you can see is, of course, their appearance. White truffles have a smooth exterior, usually pale yellow to ochre, with flesh that varies from cream to pinkish or light brown and is crossed by pale veins. Many black truffles have a rough, black or dark brown rind, although the smooth black truffle has much smaller, less conspicuous bumps. Inside, their flesh varies with the species and maturity and is crossed by pale veins.

But the most important difference is their aroma. White truffles have an intense aroma and a “symphony” of scents: garlic, honey, spices, and hay, to name a few. Black truffles have their own range of aromas, often recalling mushrooms, soil, and underbrush; their intensity varies considerably with the species.

Do not forget that precious white truffles have a comparatively limited geographic range and depend on particular growing conditions. White truffles generally command higher prices, but the difference depends on the species, quality, size, and season.

Do you use pigs to truffle hunt?

In previous centuries, pigs were used to go truffle hunting, especially female swine, which were particularly attracted to the truffle’s heady scent. They were hard to control, though; as pigs, they could gobble up the precious truffles.

Truffle dogs have largely replaced truffle pigs because dogs are easier to manage, train, and more disciplined.

Which dog breeds are the best for truffle hunting?

The Lagotto Romagnolo is particularly associated with truffle hunting, although other breeds and crossbreeds can also be trained for the work.

To be a good truffle hunter, a dog needs an excellent sense of smell, endurance, intelligence, the ability to learn, and adaptability.

Visual examination: Check for mold, decay, and obvious damage. A broken truffle isn’t necessarily a poor one, and natural color variations shouldn’t be mistaken for deterioration.

Physical examination: If you gently press the truffle, it should feel firm. If it is soft, spongy, or slimy, it is past its best.

Nasal examination: Precious white truffle has a pleasant, agreeable, well-balanced aroma. A strong smell of ammonia or unpleasant fermented notes suggests it is deteriorating.

At a restaurant, always ask to see the truffles before they slice them on the food and check them as described above. Ask for the price per gram and agree on the approximate quantity before they shave them onto your dish.

How do you store truffles? How long can you keep them?

Fresh truffles, especially white ones, must be eaten as soon as possible. Wrap them individually in clean, dry kitchen paper, put them in an airtight container, and keep them in the refrigerator at 2–4°C (36–39°F). Change the paper daily and check their condition. Aim to enjoy white truffles within a few days, when their aroma is at its best.

You can freeze black truffles, including the precious winter black truffle, although their texture and aroma will change. White truffles are best enjoyed fresh.

The most accessible alternative to fresh truffles is preserved truffles or truffled food, but buy only from professional, trustworthy retailers and producers, and always check the truffle percentage in each product. Excellent producers are Savini, Bianconi, Boscovivo, and Tartuflanghe. Follow the product’s storage instructions, including those for use after opening.

What are the best ways to eat truffles?

The best way to eat the precious white truffle Tuber magnatum (and also bianchetto) is, without a doubt, fresh—as fresh as possible—and thinly sliced over the finished dish. You can use it on hot dishes like risotto, handmade egg pasta, fried egg, or fondue, or on cold dishes like tartare or a salad of raw Caesar’s mushrooms.

You can use Norcia black truffle raw or cooked. It pairs well with anchovies in the sauce.

How much do truffles cost?

Truffles are seasonal products, so their availability, quality, and price vary each year depending on rainfall, temperature, and other climate factors. Shape and size also affect the price.

Precious white truffles generally command the highest prices, but quotations change through the season. When comparing prices, check the date, species, size category, and unit of weight.

For a reference, consult the Centro Nazionale Studi Tartufo’s price board. Check the quotation date before relying on it: the board lists prices per 100 grams, not per kilogram.