Le Marche Wine Region Guide

Geography and terroir

Sandwiched between the Apennine Mountains and the Adriatic Sea, Le Marche is a spectacularly beautiful place to make wine. Inland from the Adriatic coastline are a myriad of distinct wine regions, bordered by Umbria to the west (separated by the Apennines) and Abruzzo to the south. Moreover, while the coastline may be relatively flat, the hinterland’s pretty green hills yield wines of remarkable freshness and verve, thanks partly to the variations in altitude that characterize the best sites in Le Marche. Indeed, the combined influence of the Apennines, the Adriatic, and four rivers – Metauro, Potenza, Tronto, and Nera – creates a patchwork of macroclimates that range from temperate to very warm. Meanwhile, regional soils include significant outcrops of limestone and clay, perfect for cultivating red and white grapes. These terroirs help to retain vital moisture in the summer yet are well-drained enough to avoid waterlogged terrain in the fall and spring; vines do not like ‘wet feet’!

Historically, Marche’s greatest wines were the crisp Verdicchio whites of Castelli di Jesi to the west of Ancona. That is still the case today: Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOCG runs the whole gamut from light, saline beauties to more structured and concentrated whites of real class. In the traditional Classico zone, top producers like Umani and Ronchi market a small volume of prestige bottlings – oak-aged Verdicchio offers freshness and power. It reaches an apogee when served alongside Adriatic shellfish; the smaller Verdicchio di Matelica appellation is less established than its neighbor. Yet the zone’s high-elevation climats (vineyard sites) yield particularly fragrant and zippy expressions of the Verdicchio grape, again perfect with seafood.

Meanwhile, the pale, dry whites of Bianchello del Metauro are a specialty of the Matauro River valley. They are pleasantly crisp and fruity, although Bianchello is not a grape for the long haul. A growing number of wineries are also dabbling in international varieties, not least Pinot Bianco (Pinot Blanc). The best examples are ripe, hazelnut-scented concoctions of fruit and oak.

But Montepulciano is the king of red wines in this part of the Adriatic coast rather than Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon. Its greatest successes are found in the Rosso Conero DOC, an appellation that flanks the city of Ancona. Vines planted on calcareous soils yield deliciously fruit-rich, and perfumed wines occasionally enlivened with a dash (maximum 15%) of Sangiovese. Rosso Piceno adheres to a similar formula, blending juicy Montepulciano grapes with the more piquant and acidic Sangiovese to create medium-bodied reds of good character. If the yields are kept low, and the wine is judiciously matured in barrel, they are an attractive – and good value – alternative to the Tuscan superstars.

Lastly, the sparkling wines of Vernaccia di Serrapetrona DOCG are among the most esoteric in Europe today. Just 25 hectares are dedicated to producing this local curiosity from a variety genetically identical to Grenache, Vernaccia Nera. Cultivated at altitudes that rise to 600 meters above sea level, the area’s vineyards are found on the lower slopes of the Apennines close to the border with Umbria. Due to the region’s diurnal temperature variation, Vernaccia di Serrapetrona is renowned for its crisp acidity and intense flavors of crushed red fruits. It bears no comparison with any other wine style – an authentic slice of Italian history first mentioned in Dante’s Divine Comedy.

The lowdown

Le Marche’s viticultural scene is changing fast. Once, the region was defined by its apathy and inertia; mass-produced wine was the region’s USP, sold to bulk shippers and supermarkets at a derisory cost. The large cooperatives and big businesses stymied any attempts to overturn this regrettable situation. However, this small and beautiful region is riding high in 2023, buoyed by significant investment and a cultural shift towards quality in the cellars of its family-run wineries. With the European appetite for cheap plonk rapidly diminishing, growers realized they had to act.

The results of their endeavors are all around us. The quality of both Verdicchio and Montepulciano has soared in recent years. At the same time, global recognition for these thrilling wines has been augmented by rising interest from visiting buyers and key influencers. The value of international exports is growing, and producers are now familiar at the world’s leading trade fairs and symposiums. Meanwhile, the green and organic movement is strong: big, skin-macerated natural wines remain a trend with their funky flavors and amber color. Yet the critical mass of Marche whites are fresh as a daisy and packed full of fruit – precisely what most consumers want.

But most importantly, the urge to sample a wider range of styles and move beyond familiar labels is constantly growing. Some wineries are dragging their heels and refusing to swim with the tide. However, they no longer represent the critical mass. Wine tourism is also a strong factor in this ongoing renaissance, especially in Ancona and the beautiful Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini.

Yet it’s not all good news in the hills of Marche. In 2023 year, a row developed over the Montepulciano grape, specifically, the right to reference the grape variety on the label. Only the Italians could go to war over a nomenclature: Italy’s Ministry of Agriculture has been lobbied by producers in neighboring Abruzzo, as growers demanded exclusive rights to the term “Montepulciano.” The proposed solution for neighboring regions cultivating the grape is to use an ancient synonym, “Cordisco,” when labeling their wines. But, as the term has not been used for over a hundred years, this will likely confuse wine drinkers; moreover, winegrowers in Le Marche also have a strong historical claim to promote red wines labeled as Montepulciano. This thorny issue, and the strong feelings it arouses, is unlikely to be resolved any time soon.

Marche gastronomy

Uncork a bottle of Verdicchio and savor the heady aroma of fresh seafood caught that day from the Adriatic. Both the interior and the sea play a vital role in Le Marche’s food culture – its pasta, white truffles, Prosciutto di Carpegna, and Ciauscolo (spreadable salami sausage) are all divine. Local highlights include Vincisgrassi (a regional variation on lasagne) and tagliatelle served with shaved Acqualagna white truffles. Meanwhile, the local fish stew is the perfect summer treat: garlic, onions, tomatoes, fresh herbs, and a medley of saltwater fish are slowly braised for hours. You’ll need plenty of fresh bread to mop up the sauce.

A Guide to Le Marche Cuisine and Gastronomy: Read more