Setubal Peninsula Wine Region Guide

Geography and terroir

Visitors to Lisbon have no excuse: Setúbal is easily accessible from that great city just south of Portugal’s handsome capital. Home to several iconic wine estates – Bacalhôa and José Maria da Fonseca are legends abroad – the peninsula is a veritable tourist paradise. Indeed, less than 25 miles from Lisbon is a verdant landscape dominated by the lush Arrábida Natural Park, while pristine Atlantic beaches throng with holidaymakers in the summer.

Yet, in a sense, the above gives the wrong impression. Setúbal is a working vineyard rather than an ersatz tourist playground. Its terroir is exceptional: between the Tagus and Sado estuaries, southeast of Lisbon, with clay-limestone soils of unrivaled potential, cooled by Atlantic winds. The finest sites are planted on the lower slopes of the Serra Arrabida hills; sandy soils are more common around the town of Palmela. Without the influence of the Atlantic, maintaining acidity in this Mediterranean climate (there is scant rainfall in the summer) would be no easy task. But, the prevailing air currents straight off the ocean ensure vine canopies do not bake in the intense sunlight. For that reason, inland vineyards are far less suited to white wine production than the premier climats (vineyard sites) of Setúbal DOC.

Winemaking and regional classifications

The Setúbal peninsula is home to two key appellations: Setúbal and Palmela DOCs. The former needs no introduction to lovers of fortified wines. Based on the local strain of Muscat de Alexandria, the regulations permit the inclusion of a small percentage (maximum 30%) of additional varieties, including Arinto, Malvasia, and Roba de Ovelha. But in practice, Moscatel is usually over 85/90 percent of the final blend.

The winemaking culture in Setúbal is unique. The production of both Port and Sherry strongly emphasizes the role of grape spirit; this is added either during the primary fermentation (in the case of Port) or after all the sugar has been transformed into alcohol – standard practice in the cellars of Jerez de la Frontera. This strengthens the wine, increasing its alcohol and providing a powerful defense against oxidation and spoilage. However, they do things quite differently in this part of Portugal.

In Setúbal, the vinification process is haltered with the addition of Moscatel pomace (grape leftovers), most crucially, the skins. This explosive combination of pomace and partially fermented juice is left to macerate for as long as six months – occasionally longer. The result is a powerfully floral wine, always matured in wood for several years (normally at least four). However, the best cuvées are aged for decades before release: they compete with the finest Sauternes in the category of legendary sweet wines. Expect a glass of spicy hedonism with all the aromatic potency of Argentine Torrontes.

Winegrowers in Palmela, meanwhile, continue to make balanced, elegant dry wines of real interest. Red Palmela usually contains a good dollop (67 percent minimum by law) of Castelão, grown on sandy terroir to the east of the town. Yet it is not unknown for producers to add a dash of Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo, and/or Syrah to the final blend. The best of this firmament is endowed with crunchy red fruit, ripe acidity, and firm tannins, a perfect wine, in other words, to enjoy with the hearty cuisine of Setúbal’s many atmospheric taverns. In addition, a small (but growing) volume of white wines is marketed under the Palmela DOC banner. You’ll be amazed at the finesse of these Fernão Pires/Moscatel blends: a hallmark of how many talented winemakers reside here.

The lowdown

Progress in the vineyards of Estremadura (an antiquated term for this part of central Portugal) continues apace, and oenophiles have to contend with new producers, ongoing innovation, grape experimentation, and ever-better wines. After decades of neglect, a resurgence in domestic demand – and growing tourism – has reinvigorated the appellations that once supplied northern Europe with vast quantities of wine. The roll call is impressive: Bucelas, Carcavelos, and Colares have all made great strides in attracting new investment and interest. Yet Setúbal DOC remains an outlier among the collection of zones that spread out from Portugal’s capital. There have been no dramatic shifts of fortune; the demand for sweet fortified wines is as paltry as it was 20 years ago. The flame is kept alive just by a few acolytes in restaurants and the specialist wine trade. Nevertheless, greatness (at least in terms of demand) is unlikely ever to return.

However, Palmela is on a roll. It seems hardly a month passes without the appearance of a new dry style made in these privileged vineyards, but that’s Portugal for you. A nation that still has plenty left to prove. Both the red and white wines impress; 20 years ago, visitors to a winery would view dilapidated equipment and rustic facilities. Today, they marvel at the state-of-the-art chais (barrel cellars) and modern paraphernalia. The two currently most impressive varieties are Castelão (naturally) and Arinto. The former grape, understandably seen as the appellation’s USP, is moving away from the astringent caricature of old into something more elegant and supple: a competitor to Pinot Noir. Smatterings of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc show the potential for international white wine styles; however, Portuguese grapes remain the top dogs as they should.

Setúbal gastronomy

Beautiful Setúbal is not simply a pretty face. It’s also a center of fine gastronomy – heaven for visiting gourmands. The area is renowned for its extraordinary seafood and fresh fish (oysters, red mullet, cuttlefish, and the ubiquitous sardines, adored by the Portuguese). The gastro jewel in the crown, though, is the Azeitão cheese. This handcrafted, artisan sheep’s milk cheese is cured and truly delicious. It deserves a memorable wine pairing.