Alentejo Wine Region Guide

Winemaking and regional classifications

This is frontier wine country: experimentation with weird and wonderful esoteric blends regularly occurs in Alentejo. For that reason, a large proportion of the region’s wine – although some of it does qualify for a DOC – is sold as Vinho Regional Alentejano. This framework is one of Europe’s most liberal and progressive – winemakers can mix and march varieties, such as Syrah and Trincadeira, in ways that would horrify Gallic traditionalists in the Rhone. Thus, it isn’t easy to pigeonhole the wines of Alentejo. The only broad generalization we can make is that ripeness and concentration come all too easily to winegrowers in southern Portugal – achieving freshness and poise is another matter.

Fortunately, the best labels showcase stunningly ripe fruit balanced by ripe acidity and silky tannins. These are red wines that can always be enjoyed from the get-go. Portalegre, meanwhile, is the place to go looking for fresh and aromatic whites. Again, the freedom to blend indigenous grapes with imports is one of the region’s greatest strengths.

However, one increasingly popular specialty of the Alentejo region is the traditional talha wines. The Vinho de Talha DOC, introduced in 2010, regulates the production of these unique wine styles. According to the rules, destemmed grapes are vinified in impermeable clay pots or talha; the wine is left on its skins until 11 November, traditionally sealed under a layer of olive oil. Historically, talha wines were not usually bottled: a drinking tap installed at the base transferred the wine directly to your glass in the taverns of Alentejo. Modernity, it seems, has to make some concessions to the past.

Geography and terroir

Alentejo is vast. The region extends from the Atlantic Ocean to the Spanish border, stretching about a third of the country’s length. The name refers to its position south of the Tejo River, which bisects Portugal, entering the ocean near the nation’s capital. Today there are approximately 22,000 hectares of vineyards in Alentejo, planted on rich loamy soils interspersed with granite and schist, to which vines are more suited. Ranch-like estates dot the landscape, joining the silver olives, sheep, and endless vistas of undulating hills. It is a dreamy and captivating place to make wine.

However, Alentejo will not appeal to lovers of cool weather. Even in midwinter, this is a land of sun and scant rainfall. The summer, meanwhile, can routinely see temperatures rise above 40 degrees centigrade; the undulating topography protects much of the land from the cooling effects of the Atlantic. As a result, it is normal for growers to start picking in mid-August, if not before. Over 60 percent of Alentejo’s vineyards are concentrated in four key subregions (there are eight in total); Borba, Redondo, Reguengos, and Vidigueira. The climatic conditions in each of these four areas are broadly similar.

Yet there are some cooler subzones to be found in this parched vineyard. In the northeast of Alentejo is the (relatively) inclement destination known as Portalegre. It has become fashionable with elevation-obsessed winegrowers who seek finesse over raw power; certain vineyards rise to above 750 meters above sea level, while average rainfall can hit 600mm a year. But, the key advantage here is diurnal temperature variation (a large difference between night and daytime temperatures), which helps preserve the grapes’ acidity. For that reason, both the Symington family and Sogrape have purchased estates in Portalegre; many producers in the south buy grapes from these higher vineyards to add freshness to their blends. As a result, expect the area under vine to increase significantly over the next decade!

The lowdown

The Alentejo region is anything but static. Over the past decade, investment has flowed into its vineyards and cellar doors while new climats (individual sites) continue to be explored and exploited. Yet the catalyst for this shift into emerging terroirs is, regrettably, the malign spectacle of climate change. It is the principal reason behind Cortes de Cima’s decision to plant varieties – including Chardonnay and Pinot Noir – near the charming town of Vila Nova de Milfontes, just three kilometers from the coast. Benefiting from marine air courtesy of the Atlantic, these exceptional vineyards yield small berries packed with crunchy acidity. They represent, without any doubt, the future of Alentejo winemaking.

However, vines planted in the interior of the region, of course, enjoy no such privilege. From the perspective of their owners, the increasingly hot and dry growing conditions cannot simply be managed with a wholesale move into cooler terroirs. Fortunately, the region’s key stakeholders are not resting on their laurels.

In 2015, Alentejo’s Regional Wine Growing Commission launched the Wines of Alentejo Sustainability Programme (WASP), a project designed to encourage best practice among wineries and growers. Its expansive remit covers sustainable viticulture, water, energy and waste management, pests and diseases, human resources, air quality, ecosystem management, and community involvement. “Our long-term goal is to have a region that is resilient to climate change. An area that will be able to endure dry summers, more regular, longer and more intense heat waves, shorter winters and intense short rainfall periods, and still make the unique, stylish and beautiful wines that our customers expect,” explains project coordinator João Barroso.

He continues: “There was a clear urgency to create a regional movement towards best practices, resource savings, efficiency increases, and prosperity aligned with the adaptation to climate change. This is key for the producers to have a competitive advantage in the global market. In addition, a rigorous certification process ensures that consumers are guaranteed authenticity – no one can ‘breeze through’ the requirements.”

This bold endeavor represents a progressive and dynamic response to global warming. It is also highly ambitious, with goals that extend far beyond a simple carbon footprint reduction. Today, WASP empowers winegrowers with the vital tools to mitigate the most pernicious aspects of climate change. It has become an exemplar for others to follow in our capricious world.

Alentejo gastronomy

Hand in hand with Alentejo’s winemaking revolution has come a significant gastronomic and hospitality shake-up in the wider region. Traditional taverns have been joined by luxury wine hotels, Michelin restaurants, and fashionable evening haunts, propelled by continuing investment and an unprecedented level of interest in the region from international tourists. Évora, the region’s capital, is captivating – a Unesco world heritage site boasting abundant history and food. Strolling through the traverses of this labyrinthine city is a real delight, especially as they’re full of quaint, family-run restaurants. Inside, you’ll find a gastronomic tradition that has remained much the same for centuries; the food is not sophisticated but rich with delicious local ingredients such as sheep’s cheese, black pork, salt cod, wild mushrooms, and asparagus. Boisterous locals enjoy the hospitality of the many excellent taverns and restaurants filling this beguiling region. And so will you.