8 Iconic Red Burgundy Wines to Know

Why Red Burgundy Commands Such High Prices

From La Tâche and Chambertin to Richebourg and Musigny, James Lawrence selects eight benchmark red Burgundies and explains what makes each one special.

To the uninitiated, the hype and furor around red Burgundy and its legendary vineyards can be mystifying. Indeed, 21st-century collectors will pay (almost) any price for rare vintages at auction – the wines of Chambertin, La Tâche, and Musigny often sell for crown jewel prices. Rare bottles of top Burgundy continue to command extraordinary prices on the international auction market, particularly wines from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti.

But for many French red wine lovers, it remains an impenetrable cloud of confusion; so many names, villages, and sub-regions seemingly designed to baffle us. Moreover, aficionados of New World Pinot Noir – which is often excellent and affordable – understandably fail to grasp why they should pay such a hefty premium for red Burgundy. Many simply ignore the region altogether, missing out on some pretty stunning wines.

Despite the often astronomical prices associated with buying into red Burgundy, there is no denying that Pinot Noir reaches its absolute pinnacle in this corner of France. Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-Saint-Denis, Chambolle-Musigny, Vougeot, and Vosne-Romanée — at their best, the wines of these historic villages dazzle us with their perfume, intensity, and complexity of flavor. Indeed, in Europe, Burgundy has no serious challengers. New Zealand, California, and Oregon make brilliant examples, but (as of yet) none match the profundity of Pinot Noir grown in the Côte d’Or.

One must also remember that, in fairness to the producers of top-notch red Burgundy, making these wines is costly. For a start, the quantities released are typically very small – Pinot Noir is a notoriously delicate grape: its thin skins, compact bunches and susceptibility to disease demand careful work in both vineyard and cellar. For these reasons, too, Pinot Noir is especially sensitive to climate and its treatment in the vineyard – and in particular, overcropping. At Burgundy’s leading domaines, small vineyard holdings, rigorous selection and limited production contribute to the scarcity and high prices of the finest wines. Expensive? Undoubtedly. But as any Burgundy acolyte will tell you, the rewards far outweigh your investment.

How I Selected These Wines

This is not intended as a definitive ranking of Burgundy’s greatest reds — attempting one would be a fool’s errand. Instead, I have selected eight wines that, for me, capture what makes great red Burgundy so compelling: perfume, finesse, complexity, longevity and, in the best examples, an almost uncanny sense of place. They also come from domaines with long track records at the highest level. Inevitably, many wonderful producers are left out, but these wines deserve a place on any Burgundy lover’s wish list.

Eight Benchmark Red Burgundies