Campania Wine Region Guide

Winemaking and regional classifications

Thirty-five years ago, visitors flew home with a less than favorable impression of Campania’s archaic wineries. One or two notable exceptions aside, the region was stuck in a time warp; rustic equipment and fermentation vats constructed during the Phoenicians’ days were the dominant forces in local winemaking. So it is little wonder that Campanian whites, particularly, were fetid with the odor of sulfur and bruised apple – a sad reminder of a wasted opportunity. But those dark days are thankfully behind us.

Today, you can expect a lengthy tour of a spanking new cellar – stainless steel tanks, concrete eggs, and rows of pristine French barrique set the tone in 2023. Then, you’ll be whisked straight into the vineyard to see organic projects, biodynamic trials, new irrigation techniques (often a necessity in the arid landscape of southern Italy), and soil tests. Improvements and innovation are all around you, and the flavors of Campania have never tasted so pure and fresh.

But what of the winemaking? Many Campanian white grapes, including Greco and Fiano, are vinified in stainless steel tanks, almost without exception. That’s the approach at Feudi di San Gregorio, where a reductive fermentation at low temperatures yields a very aromatic and fruity style of wine. Lees stirring is a very modish technique here and elsewhere, used to add richness and texture to the wine. The red wines of Campania also benefit from a cooler vinification in stainless steel, albeit the Taurasi DOCG regulations insist upon maturation in wood. Aglianico takes to French oak like a duck to water – it accentuates the grape’s spicy tang. It remains the most impressive entry in the Campanian red portfolio.

Geography and terroir

The original playground of the Romans competes with Sicily for the title of Italy’s most exciting 21st-century vineyard. All the cards are in order: excellent native grapes, volcanic soils, and cool terroirs on high slopes add up to unprecedented potential being progressively realized. The region, occupied since the days of ancient Greece, is located in southwestern Italy and bordered by Lazio to the north and Basilicata to the south. Bathed in day after day of Mediterranean sunshine, many of Campania’s leading appellations are situated east of Naples, cooled by breezes that blow in from the Tyrrhenian Sea.

In the balmy heat of a typical Campanian summer (winters are very mild), this is an essential part of the local quality equation; altitude is no less important in preventing acidity levels from becoming too low. But, Campania’s greatest asset is surely its igneous soils – descendants of the molten lava and ash that engulfed Pompeii in AD 79.

The region’s two most important appellations remain Taurasi and Greco di Tufo DOCG. The former is made in a small enclave to the east of Naples, dissected by the River Calore. Much like Barolo, only one grape variety is permitted in the cellar; Aglianico is responsible for one of Italy’s greatest red wines, aged for at least three years to create potent, spicy, and rich expressions of Taurasi’s volcanic soils. Yet there is much stylistic variance within the appellation, mainly due to differing elevations: vines planted in the northern half of the zone (there is more clay here) rise to a moderate 400 meters above sea level.

Thus, they tend to ripen a few weeks before the more southerly vineyards (700m in some places) where igneous soils dominate. Indeed, the most structured and concentrated Aglianco is made here, where berries may not reach phenolic maturity until mid-October. You will not find a more attractive marriage of fruit, acidity, and tannin anywhere else in southern Italy.

To the southwest of Taurasi is the town of Avellino, home to Campania’s most fashionable white. The DOCG zone Fiano di Avellino is a veritable cash cow in these parts, as consumers cannot get enough of such delectable – and good value – dry white wines. Elegant, floral, and infused with the scent of minerals, Fiano is cultivated in 26 very pretty villages that flank the town of Avellino in all directions. Like Taurasi, the terrain is mountainous and rugged, with high elevation sites yielding berries packed full of fruit and crisp acidity; top Fiano di Avellino can improve in bottle for at least a decade. But it has a fierce rival in the equally superb wines of Greco di Tufo, produced in a smaller appellation to the north of Avellino.

Once again, volcanic soils and high-altitude terrain result in aromatic and utterly delicious whites renowned for their citrus, lanolin, and mineral bouquet. The grape is planted elsewhere in Campania, and, indeed, in neighboring Basilicata, few wines ascend the heights of Greco di Tufo – the porous tuff rock probably has a lot to do with it. This unique sedimentary rock, formed over millions of years from solidified volcanic ash, supplies the vine roots with essential moisture in the summer. Many also believe it is responsible for Greco di Tufo’s unmistakable and quintessential flavor of minerals and salt.
Meanwhile, the best Falanghina can be found on the outskirts of Naples in the vineyards of Campi Flegrei DOC. This fragrant white variety is celebrated for its richly textured fruit and crunchy acidity; it is also the dominant grape in Capri and the Costa d’Amalfi, grown on vertiginous slopes in the most charming part of Campania. On the southern flank of Sorrento’s peninsula, the Amalfi Coast yields perfumed and delicious whites of growing renown. The white and red wines of Lacryma Christi, grown on the slopes of Mt Vesuvius, are no less beguiling.

Campania also excels at championing Italy’s most obscure and esoteric grapes – varieties few other regions would bother with. Generally marketed under the auspices of the IGT Terre del Volturno designation, both Pallagrello Bianco and red Casavecchia are worth a closer look. They are ancient beyond belief, a throwback to the days of Socrates and Aristotle!

The lowdown

When Feudi di San Gregorio was awarded B-Corp status in June 2022, the entire Campanian wine industry stood up and applauded. This certification program started over 15 years ago, is very selective about welcoming new members to its club of eco-friendly businesses. Yet Feudi di San Gregorio had proven, time and time again, its commitment to a more sustainable future – a beacon of hope in a capricious world. At the time, Antonio Capaldo, president of Feudi di San Gregorio, commented: “Achieving B Corp certification is a great encouragement to continue working in different directions while respecting our suppliers and customers, our daily work, and the economic and social objectives of the company.”

Meanwhile, other stakeholders have since followed in San Gregorio’s footsteps, reducing the environmental impact of their wine growing and transitioning to organic or biodynamic viticulture. Sustainability isn’t merely a slogan in the vineyards of southern Italy. It is rapidly becoming the ethos that binds small and large growers together.

All of this explains the air of confidence that permeates in the wineries of Campania today. Some might even say that, on occasion, it veers into smugness. That’s perfectly understandable; the region was formerly written off by collectors and critics alike. But it’s enjoying unprecedented success on several fronts: rising sales, better wines, and greener practices. Granted, global inflationary woes are taking their toll on the industry; however, this doesn’t seem to have deterred winemakers from continuing to expand their horizons and improve their wines, nor did it deter outsiders from investing. And, while a smattering of French grapes can yield impressive results, Campania’s greatest treasures remain its indigenous superstars. The hitherto dark horse of Italian wine has become one of its most lauded and respected producers. Its rich palate of original flavors and unique tastes will enthrall you.

Campanian gastronomy

Campania’s food scene is the stuff of legend. In addition to the dangerously addictive wood-fired pizzas of Naples, you can feast on spaghetti alla vongole, filetto di manzo, and sfogliatella (sweetened ricotta pastry). Across Campania, artisans produce the finest buffalo mozzarella in Europe, often used in the ubiquitous and delicious pizza fritta (fried pizza dough stuff with spicy sausage, lard, provola cheese and tomato). It is perhaps the most gloriously hedonistic of all Italy’s on-the-go snacks. But trust the Campanians to make street food a culinary art form.

A Guide to the Gastronomy and Cuisine of Campania: Read more