Cordoba

History

Cordoba began life as a Roman settlement, founded in 152 BC by a Garrison who were attracted by its strategic position on the Guadalquivir River. The Romans controlled Andalusia – known as Baetic – for centuries, having wrestled control from the Carthaginians during the Second Punic War. Cordoba prospered under Roman rule and soon became one of the most civilized and wealthiest areas of the empire outside of Italy. During this period, Andalusia and indeed Cordoba experienced several major cultural and technological changes. The Romans introduced aqueducts, temples, amphitheaters, and bequeathed Spain, its language, and the basis of the modern Spanish legal system.

However, following the collapse of the Western Roman Empire, Cordoba fell into decline. The Germanic Visigoth tribes took control of most of the Iberian Peninsula in the 6th century AD and made Toledo in central Spain their capital. Nonetheless, their rule over Hispano Romans was precarious, and by 700, with famine in Toledo and chaos throughout the Peninsula, Visigoth control was falling apart. This paved the way for the Muslim invasion of 711, which set Spain and Cordoba’s destiny apart from the rest of Europe.

After the 8th century invasion, Cordoba became the Muslim capital of the Iberian Peninsula and a new era of prosperity dawn across Andalusia. In the 10th century, Abd ar-Rahman III named himself caliph and ensured that Al-Andalus was ruled independently from the Moorish kingdoms in the Middle East. Under his rule, Cordoba’s population grew significantly, and the city became the largest in Western Europe. Its wealth was renowned across Europe, as was the city’s architectural wonders, including mosques, patios, gardens, and fountains. It was a magnificent time for Cordoba’s citizens.

Reconquest

Following the reconquest of Spain by Fernando III, Muslims were persecuted for many centuries. Cardinal Cisneros, an overseer of the Spanish Inquisition, carried out mass forced baptism and banned both books and the Arabic language. Eventually, Muslims were given an ultimatum – convert to Christianity or leave. The fanatical Spanish King Felipe II took it one step further, expelling Moriscos (converted Muslims) from Spain altogether from 1609 to 1614.

In the 17th century, Andalusia and Cordoba’s fortunes continued to decline. The last three ineffectual Hapsburg Kings had wasted much of the area’s wealth from its conquest of the Americas. Epidemics and bad harvests killed some 300,000 people and further reduced Cordoba’s shrinking population.

Under the Bourbon dynasty of the 18th century, Cordoba’s fortunes recovered somewhat, although it would never again retain its importance as Andalusia’s economic and political capital. In the so-called Age of Enlightenment, with its faith in reason, science, and social planning, new industries sprung up in Andalusia, including Seville’s first tobacco factory.

Sadly, by the latter half of the 19th century, Andalusia was once again mired in severe economic turmoil. The region declined into one of Europe’s most backward, socially-polarized areas with massive differences in living standards between rich and poor. Illiteracy, disease, and hunger were rife. The industrial revolution that had transformed northern Spain had barely touched Andalusia.

Gastronomy & Wine

Andalusian cooking is an ethnic melting pot of diverse culinary influences, including Roman, Jewish, and Arabic. The Arabic is the most distinctive: among other things, the Muslims introduced lemons, apricots, mint, spinach, and spices such as cumin and cinnamon to the region. The fruit and vegetables are delicious and fresh throughout Andalusia, for the growing season is almost year-round. Although younger chefs are passionate about the experimental and avant-garde in Spain’s larger cities, local food remains fairly traditional and conservative.

Of course, Andalusia’s most famous culinary contribution is tapas, which today come in an indefinite variety and are essential to the Spanish way of life. History records that today’s snacks originated in the Sherry region in the 19th century when bar owners placed a bit of bread on top of a drink to deter flies; this developed into the custom of putting a snack on the bread to encourage drinking.

Although one of the region’s smaller cities, Cordoba offers a lively culinary scene. Many of the city’s classy restaurants prepare food in medieval styles – delights such as garlic soup with raisins lamb stuffed with dates and pine nuts. Local highlights include Rabo de Toro (oxtail stew) and salmorejo, which is like a thicker gazpacho served with bits of boiled egg on top. One of our favorite haunts is Taberna San Miguel, still one of Cordoba’s most popular and atmospheric tabernas. The food is excellent, as is the selection of local wines. El Churrasco is another great find specializing in delicious meat dishes, including a barbecued fillet of pork with an exotic Arabian sauce.

Andalusia is renowned for Jerez or Sherry, a fortified wine produced in Jerez de la Frontera, El Puerto de Santa Maria, and Sanlucar de Barrameda. However, Cordoba has its own local version, produced in the nearby regions of Montilla and Moriles. The wine is similar to Sherry, made by the same process except that it isn’t fortified with the addition of Brandy. Like Sherry, it comes in different styles, the three main ones being Fino, Amontillado, and Oloroso. Finos work particularly well with tapas and can cope with the wide range of flavors on offer. Also, most Cordoba restaurants will offer a selection of wines from across Spain, including sparkling Cava, Rioja, and Ribera Del Duero’s mighty reds.