Assisi

History

Assisi’s history stretches back to pre-Roman times, and a thriving settlement existing in what we now know as Assisi long before the Roman’s consolidated their hold over Italy. Historians trace Assisi’s origins back to around 800BC, traveling nomads, the Umbri started to build fortified settlements along the River Tiber in central Italy, including the area that today houses the town of Assisi. The Umbri prospered based on agriculture and fishing in the river Tiber. Eventually, the settlements were occupied by the Etruscans, whose civilization co-existed with the Umbri but ultimately exercised control over the region.

The Etruscans controlled this area of central Italy for over a century, but conflict with the emerging Roman civilization came to a head in the Battle of Sentinum in 295BC. The combined might of the Etruscans, Umbrians, and Samnites could not defeat the Roman army, and the settlement became a Roman Municipium or district under the name of Asisium.

Asisium remained under the Roman Empire’s jurisdiction for several centuries, during which time, Umbria became a vital territory in the Empire. Its inhabitants were one of the first to convert to Christianity; the incumbent Bishop Rufinus evangelized the citizens of Asisium in 238 A.D. However, the Germanic Goth tribes arrived in the 5th century, and the Roman’s control over Western Europe eventually collapsed. The Ostrogoth King Totila captured the settlement in 545; it then became part of the Lombardy Kingdom and, subsequently, the Frankish Duchy of Spoleto.

The settlement grew and prospered under the Duchy of Spoleto’s rule, and Assisi enjoyed a stable and peaceful existence until the 12th century. In the late 11th century, the town became an independent, so-called Ghibelline commune or semi-autonomous city-state. The term Ghibelline refers to an order that supported the Holy Roman Emperor, as opposed to the Guelphs, who had sworn allegiance to the Pope as supreme head of the Church. The neighboring Umbrian town of Perugia was a Guelph commune, which caused considerable tension between the two communes. The conflict finally erupted in 1198 when the Assisi inhabitants marched against Perugia and were beaten in a battle at Ponte San Giovanni.

Among the prisoners taken by the inhabitants of Perugia was a confident 22-year-old Giovanni di Bernardone, who today is known as St. Francis of Assisi. Undoubtedly the town’s most famous resident, Giovanni Francesco di Bernardone was born in the winter of 1181, the child of a wealthy tradesman whose family came from Tuscany. After his spell in captivity in Perugia, legend claims that Francesco decided to fight a crusade of the Count Walter de Brienne to reclaim the city of Athens. However, illness struck Francesco, and he was forced to renounce his chance of glory and contemplate his future. He chose to abandon a life of wealth and ease and founded the order of the Grey-Friars. Today, his legacy survives, and St. Francis is remembered for his humility, obedience to the Church, and love of nature.

After the death of St. Francis in 1226, he was proclaimed a Saint only two years later by Pope Gregory IX, who began the construction of a church in his honor. The 13th century would also see Assisi expand beyond the confines of its medieval town-walls, incorporating the Convent and Church of St. Francis. The population continued to grow until the Black Death struck in 1348, which significantly reduced the town’s population.

Assisi’s fortunes sadly went from bad to worse, as the town became embroiled in a conflict that would endure for more than 150 years between the two major Assisi families, the Nepis (of the upper town or Parte de Sopra) and the Fiumi (of the lower town/Parte de Sotto). From the 14th century until the end of the 16th century, they fought each other bitterly for control of Assisi. However, the beginning of the 17th century would herald better times for Assisi and the post-Renaissance centuries were mostly peaceful. Many important landmarks were constructed during this time, including the wondrous Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli and the Palazzo di Bernabei. As the town increasingly became an important destination for Christian pilgrims far and wide, so did the general renown of Assisi through Europe.

Gastronomy & Wine

Italians are very (understandably) proud and passionate about their ingredients and food. Almost every town and village has its dishes, and each region has its distinctive cuisine, making use of locally grown seasonal ingredients. To Italians, food is life, not just something that keeps you alive. Good cooking is in their blood, and the Umbrians are no exception.

Like every Italian town, Assisi has its abundance of tasty dining options – cafes, pizzerias, trattorias (informal bistro-like venues), and ristorantes. The oldest part of Assisi is full of good, and good value trattorias, where visitors can sit on a sun-kissed terrace, sipping local wine while perusing some of the local cuisine on the menu. All year-round, but especially in the spring and summer months, Assisi has superb produce markets to explore, selling first-class local delicacies including cheese, bread, wine, olives, and meat.

Umbrian specialties include; black truffles, game in the winter months, and fantastic olive oil. Porchetta is a definite seasonal highlight – young roasted suckling pig stuffed with fennel and garlic. Of course, national favorites such as classic pasta dishes, pizzas, and desserts are available all year round. The region is renowned for its white wine Orvieto, a blend of Trebbiano and local varieties Grechetto and Drupeggio. Torgiano is the area’s best appellation for red wine; elegant and long-lived wines are produced from the Sangiovese grape, which is sometimes blended with cabernet sauvignon and other international varieties for color and body. Considering the quality of what is available, prices are very reasonable, and there is no excuse for not stocking up on excellent local wines to enjoy at home!