Cigales Wine Region Guide

Winemaking and regional classifications

“Seductive” is the best word to describe the potent and beguiling red wines of Cigales. This relatively young DO (founded in 1991) is making a name for itself in Spanish restaurant circles; top labels offer the concentration and finesse of blue chip Ribera del Duero without the price tag. This is due to an advantageous combination of excellent terroir, old bush vines, and superior winemaking. Local producers (encouraged by the appellation framework) tend to place Tempranillo at the heart of the matter, with a smaller percentage of Garnacha Tinta and/or Grenache Gris in the blend. According to local rules, a minimum of 70 percent Tempranillo must be used in the wine, while Grenache (both types) can constitute up to 50 percent. In addition, international grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot have made inroads in recent years, although they seldom dominate any red blend in Cigales.

Mirroring the Rioja and Ribera del Duero framework, wines are classified into four principal categories: Joven, Crianza, Reserva, and Gran Reserva. Priced in ascending order, Reservas and (very rare) Gran Reservas represent the apex of Cigales wine production. The best wines have an astonishing force of personality, with a ripe bouquet showcasing notes of blackberries, garrigue, cigar box, and leather. They reach an apogee when served with roast-sucking pig on a chilly fall evening.

But Cigales does not limit itself to dramatic reds. On the contrary: over 50% of all wines are light-colored rosés that showcase beautiful fruit and aromatics. Adopting a flexible approach to local production, the wines can be made from any combination of red and white grapes as long as the listed varieties constitute at least 50% of the blend. A tiny volume of white is also made in Cigales, incorporating varying percentages of Verdejo, Albillo, and possibly Sauvignon Blanc. The occasional sparkling and sweet wine also makes an appearance. However, the quality is rarely inspiring. For the most part, you would be advised to stick to the reds and rosados.

Geography and terroir

Cigales enjoys a lofty position in the expansive Duero valley of Castilla y Leon, flanked by the Pisuerga tributary. It is also blessed with abundant ancient Tempranillo vines and clay-loam soils that retain moisture during the summer. This is an essential advantage in the dry and harsh climate of Cigales, where summer temperatures frequently exceed 104 Fahrenheit in July and August. As a result, ripeness is rarely an issue in the vineyards of northwestern Spain; drought and frost are the chief enemies here.

However, the vineyards of Ciglaes are higher than those of Toro to the southwest – elevation ranges from 650 to 800 meters above sea level. This diurnal temperature variation (a significant difference between day and evening temperatures) is responsible for the wine’s surprising acidity and structure. Yet the harvest date is crucial in Cigales: overripeness is a major risk in this sweltering heat. Achieving that delicate balance between phenolic ripeness and freshness is one of the great challenges of wine growing in Spain’s meseta. In certain vintages, picking will start in mid-August and be completed quickly.

The lowdown

In June 2023, the California-based wine writer Alder Yarrow unveiled an online resource dedicated to cataloging old bush vines. Wine critics and producers were ebullient – finally, a sophisticated database that maps the world’s most precious viticultural resource. It is called The Old Vine Registry, and it is certain to contain several references to the stony vineyards of Cigales in due course. This is because 50 percent of all vines in the region are over 65 years old. Moreover, there is an unusually high volume of centenarians in the DO, including a small parcel of vineyards that predate phylloxera; bush vines produce the most wonderfully concentrated and powerful wines. It is one of the reasons why investors continue to flock to Cigales in search of the next frontier in Castilla y Leon winemaking.

Riojan stalwart Baron de Ley was among the first outsider to be seduced by the potential of Cigales’ soils and position. Their arrival in 1999 caused a stir in this relatively conservative region – the owners built a splendid and ornate winery, Finca Museum, that shook the region out of its inertia. Historically, wine growing was treated as a quaint hobby by the small number of family-run bodegas in Cigales, producing small volumes for the local market. So there was little interest in exporting for most of the 20th century, as producers lacked the confidence and know-how.

Thankfully, the dense, spicy, and delicious wines of Cigales can now be enjoyed by non-residents and tourists alike, as Finca Museum has made real headway in the US and other key global markets. Granted, some vinous treasures are worth keeping a secret so that corporate behemoths and mass-market brands don’t muscle in and spoil the party. But these value-led and exclusive superlative wines deserve to be shared with the world.

Cigales gastronomy

Food is a veritable obsession in the plains of Castilla Y Leon and with good reason! The landscape promises the finest jamon, roast lamb, and suckling pig in Europe; wood-fired cooking and meat are a real specialty of northwestern Spain. However, there is plenty of freshwater fish to whet your appetite and a treasure trove of bite-sized morsels known as tapas. The small city of Burgos has some of the most enticing options: Revueltos Capricho de Burgos (scrambled eggs, potatoes, sausage, red peppers, and mushrooms) is a meal in itself.

Gastronomy Guide of Castilla y Leon: Read more