Catamarca Wine Region Guide

Geography and terroir

Traditionally (and understandably) overlooked by traveling oenophiles, the province of Catamarca in northwest Argentina is starting to attract visitors from abroad. Rich in fertile soils, the region is still home to heavily irrigated vineyards dedicated to producing table grapes; however, a growing number of individuals eschew this rather soulless, if lucrative, business model.

Quality Over Quantity

As a result, one can now experience Catamarca’s terroir footprint in premium labels of Syrah, aromatic Torrontes, and spicy Malbec, rather than just gallons of oversized berries and bulk wine. Meanwhile, the region’s vivid landscapes are rich in unspoiled beauty and tradition. If you like getting off the beaten track, you’ll appreciate Catamarca.

Today, farmers cultivate approximately 2,500 hectares of vineyards in the region, although some of the acreage is not used to make bottled wine. Yet there is plenty of high-potential terroir in Catamarca, bordered by the city of Salta to the north and La Rioja to the south. The province rises westward into the Andes and its ice-crusted volcanic peaks, which puncture the clouds—above 6000 meters in some places.

Far below, in a labyrinth of verdant valleys flanked by mountainous terrain, vines yield concentrated red and white wines. Indeed, from one perspective, the conditions for viticulture are highly favorable. Due to the rainshadow effect of the Andes, Catamarca is shielded from the Pacific rainstorms that batter the west coast of Chile.

As a result, the growing season is usually hot and very dry, with intense sunshine  ‘raining down’ on the berries day after day. In Argentina, achieving high sugar levels and physiological ripeness is sometimes all too easy.

At the same time, the abundance of high-altitude terrain (rising to 1,500 meters above sea level) leads to significant diurnal temperature variation; evenings are far cooler than the afternoons, as heat escapes more readily at higher elevations. This natural advantage, combined with the cold alpine air that blows in from the Andes, is fundamental in producing wines with good acidity and freshness – it is Argentina’s most famous viticultural trademark. Fungal diseases are not a major area of concern in Catamarca.

Sustainable Irrigation

Meanwhile, although the climate is very arid (432mm of rainfall per annum), meltwater from the Andean glaciers provide a steady supply of moisture during the summer, transported by the rivers and streams that bisect the vignoble. The challenge, however, is to ensure that vines do not become over-irrigated: this will cause the berries to swell up as the plant’s metabolism goes into overdrive.

Fortunately, sophisticated drip-feed irrigation systems, which deliver water directly to the roots of the plants, can deliver just the right amount of moisture to prevent yield inflation. With them, high-quality wine production is possible in Catamarca.

Most vineyards are planted in two subzones: Fiambala and the less-regarded Tinogasta southwest of Belen. Some of the land is undoubtedly more suited to table grape viticulture—these alluvial terroirs are fertile and well-drained, with moderate water retention. Sandy soils yield soft and light wines, often lacking structure and depth.

Much of the high-yielding Criolla Grande variety is cultivated on such terrain. But, there are also exceptional sites in Catamarca, with good drainage, moisture-retaining clay in the substratum, and rocky topsoils. Syrah, Malbec, Torrontes, and Cabernet Sauvignon thrive in these stony environments.

Winemaking and regional classifications

Although still in its infancy, the modern Catamarcan wine industry produces wines of depth, complexity, and style. This is despite the small number of quality-focused wineries (less than 10) and the pressure to sell land for table grape cultivation. Nevertheless, the best wines are truly impressive—a testament to the tremendous potential of viticulture in northwestern Argentina.

Micro-Production and Single-Vineyard Wines

One of the most exciting developments is the growth in single-vineyard and micro-production wines. More and more investors, led by Bemberg, are proving that Malbec is a fine exponent of terroir; Argentine Malbec is far more diverse than people realize, with several different styles now available.

Some wines, often from Mendoza, are indeed voluptuous and rich in fruit. Others are playful, transparent, and more ‘European’ in their restraint and earthy undertones. This diversity in wine styles, from rich and fruity to restrained and earthy, is a testament to Catamarca’s exciting range of wines.

A classic example is Bemberg La Linterna Malbec from Chañar Punco. The fruit is sourced from the ‘Finca Los Chañares’ climat, a parcel of Malbec vines found at 2000 meters above sea level in the southern end of the Calchaquíes valley in Santa Maria. This high-altitude location, combined with the region’s unique climate, results in grapes with a distinct flavor profile.

Using fine-tuned drip irrigation, Bemberg can harvest small berries of highly concentrated fruit. Then, they crush the grapes and leave them to cold soak for five days, extracting some color and tannin from the skins. Spontaneous fermentation occurs in 2000-liter concrete eggs, including 10% whole bunches. A relatively lengthy post-fermentation maceration (up to 25 days) will extract phenolic compounds and anthocyanins from the grapes before the wine is aged in 300-liter new barrels for 18 months—20 percent is left in used old vats.

According to James Suckling, the 2017 vintage displays “black cherries, dark berries, walnuts, peppercorns, cloves and cigar box on the nose.” Our experience suggests that Bemberg’s Chañar Punco Malbec is an exceptional, terroir-driven wine: medium-bodied and poised, it offers a more nuanced interpretation of Argentina’s flagship grape.

Beyond Malbec

Yet Catamarca does not begin and end with super-premium Malbec. Deep-colored Bonarda delivers an intense mouthful of fresh and crunchy fruit, while Torrontes reaches its aromatic apogee in the highest vineyards of Santa Maria. Torrontes, renowned for its intensely floral bouquet of rose petals, citrus, and stone fruit, is fermented in stainless steel and is typically unoaked. Meanwhile, Criolla Grande and Pedro Gimenez are best ignored as the wines are seldom high-quality.

Local Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, however, can be very impressive. Forthright in their fruit expression, the top Cabernets are Napa Valley lookalikes with abundant power and concentration. They are rarely over-the-top due to the high altitude and concomitant levels of freshness in the wines. Today, they are also making some very structured and complex Syrah, emphasizing dark, spicy fruit and firm tannins. The best examples will improve in bottle for at least five years.

Catamarca gastronomy

For a small city, San Fernando del Valle de Catamarca is surprisingly well-equipped with bars and restaurants of every description: casual tapas haunts, flaming hot parillas (grill restaurants), and upmarket destinations. Local highlights include delicious steak (of course), homemade pasta plates, fried empanadas, and humitas – cornmeal dough filled with meat and red pepper baked in plantain leaves. Food from this region, which has its roots in pre-Columbian times, is often more punchy and spicy than the sophisticated offerings from Buenos Aires and Mendoza. It can have a mighty kick!