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Provence’s Finest: Unveiling the Top Restaurants You Must Experience

By: Genevieve Mc Carthy / Last updated: July 28, 2023

Estimated reading time: 8 minutes

WHERE TO DINE WHILE TOURING IN PROVENCE

“The French think mainly about two things – their two main meals,” a Parisian was once heard to say, and nowhere is this truer than in Provence. The undisputed European capital of summer tourism and arguably France’s most celebrated region, Provencal cuisine is now among the country’s best, supported by many excellent wines produced throughout the region’s captivating and spectacular landscape.

Indeed, visitors to Provence are often surprised at the quality of local restaurants, most of which rise above the Provencal cliches of olives, bouillabaisse, and tapenade. Of course, such dishes are unmissable for the traditionalists among us. Still, Provence now offers a culinary melting pot, with restaurants that range from Michelin-starred and formal to rustic little hideaways only frequented by local families. Yet, particularly in the region’s larger cities, North-African immigration has enriched the local gastronomic scene immeasurably, with Marseille, for example, now boasting an amazingly eclectic selection of restaurants, including Indian, Antillean, Thai, Armenian, and Tunisian. Of course, plenty of venues only specialize in local dishes, so don’t fret if you’re desperate for a fix of bouillabaisse and ratatouille.

And so regardless of where your culinary allegiances lie, you’re bound to find the restaurant that’s perfect for you in our hand-picked selection of Provence restaurants below:

Bon Appetit!

Le Petit Nice-Passedat

Le Petit Nice-Passedat

Le Petit Nice is undoubtedly one of France’s finest restaurants, a testament to the legendary culinary skills of owner Gérald Passédat. Indeed, the setting alone means that Le Petit Nice is worthy of a special detour: nestled into the rocks above a small cove, Le Petit Nice is an idyllic hideaway and undoubtedly the most romantic of all the world’s three-Michelin-starred restaurants. Renowned for his sophisticated and playful interpretations of traditional Provencal dishes, Passédat is famous for his signature “Bouille-Abaisse,” a three-tier dish composed of raw shellfish, shallow-water fish, and deep-water species – it must be tried at least once in every gastronome’s lifetime. As you’d expect, Le Petit Nice’s service is equally as refined – professional, courteous, and incredibly attentive. And then there’s the wine list, an expertly curated homage to both the famous Chateau of Champagne, Bordeaux, and Burgundy and to the wonderful diversity of the Provence region itself.

Website: www.passedat.fr


Chez Madie Les Galinettes

Chez Madie Les Galinettes, 138 quai du Port, Marseille

A legend for its wonderfully fresh seafood and the inviting alfresco summer terrace, Chez Madie Les Galinettes is surely Marseille’s most charming restaurant. It all starts with the warm welcome every guest receives from Les Galinette’s convivial owners and gets better from then on. In the summer season, its port-side terrace is the place to be, while during the chillier months, patrons flock inside to a modern art-filled interior. Just like the owners, the food is uncomplicated, wholesome, and inviting – oysters, mussels, turbot, Dover sole, red mullet, and, of course, the finest bouillabaisse money can buy are all up for grabs. Paired with a glass of Provencal rose, Les Galinettes’ rich, hearty bouillabaisse is divine – the perfect way to spend a balmy summer evening in Marseille’s Vieux Port.

Website: eatbu.com


L’Alcove

L'alcove, 19 Rue Constantin, 13100 Aix-en-Provence

The thrill is finding it. On a nondescript street, savvy patrons discretely enter and proceed down a spiral staircase into a magical cave that is one of Provence’s finest restaurants today. Low ceilings, Gothic arches, subtle lighting, and warm candles make eating in this former cellar a cozy affair, perfect for a romantic evening! However, L’Alcove is no one-trick pony, and the food is just as exciting, with a creative edge that takes classical French to new heights. Service is similarly spot-on, and the friendly owners will happily recommend a local vintage or two.

Website: www.lalcove.fr


Christian Etienne

Maison Christian Etienne 10 rue de Mons 84000 Avignon

A spectacularly situated restaurant, Christian Etienne offers the finest cuisine and views in Avignon. Discerning gastronomes make a pilgrimage to the eponymous chef’s den of Haute Provencal cuisine every year, with the leafy outdoor dining room in high demand in the summer months. Inside this 12th-century palace near the Palais des Papes, you’ll encounter cooking of the highest standards, which stands up even without the glamorous backdrop. Smoked mackerel ceviche and a trio of tomatoes – Green Zebra, Beefheart, and Pineapple – with basil make a fitting introduction to Etienne’s genius. In contrast, his duo of Provencal lamb with crushed tomato “clusters,” eggplant caviar, and rosemary crumble is utterly divine. Such high standards are maintained throughout the lunch and dinner service, while Christian’s cellar is bound to make oenophiles drool, stocked full of rare and prestigious vintages.

Website: www.christian-etienne.fr


Le Formal

Le Formal, 32 Rue Espariat, 13100 Aix-en-Provence,

Despite the name, there’s nothing stuffy or pretentious about this delightful gem of a restaurant. Situated in a cave underneath the oldest part of Aix-en-Provence, Le Formal offers an extraordinary dining experience. Exposed stone, soft lighting, and modern art lend Le Formal a very romantic air, while the seven-course tasting menu is an exercise in gastronomic perfection. Highlights might include sashimi of raw vegetables with truffle cream, baked fillet of turbot served with walnuts, herring caviar, and Camembert roti. Desserts are similarly high-class, but we don’t want to spoil the surprise. Moreover, despite the level of cooking on display, prices are almost astonishingly reasonable—service with a smile and an extensive offering of wine round things off in exquisite style.

Website: www.restaurant-leformal.com


Le Parvis

Le Parvis, 55 Cours Pourtoules, 84100 Orange

This is Orange’s top table, so book ahead. Established by legendary chef Jean-Michel Berengier in 1986, Le Parvis continues to offer the highest cooking standards, service, and hospitality. However, don’t come to Le Parvis looking for a party; the dining room is a picture of elegant discretion, featuring beautiful china, fine cutlery, and traditional art throughout. Expect inventive combinations and sophisticated interpretations of Provencal classics cooked to perfection. Start with the snail ravioli before devouring Berengier’s legendary beef fillet with Béarnaise sauce and finish with a selection of local cheeses, accompanied by a glass of vin doux. Regarding dessert, we’d advise letting Jean-Michel make your decision for you. Trust us; you won’t leave disappointed!

Website (Booking): restaurant.michelin.fr


Moulin a Huile

Moulin a Huile, 1 Quai Maréchal Foch, Route de Malaucène, 84110 Vaison-la-Romaine

A hidden gem among tourist-ridden Provence, Moulin a Huile is undoubtedly the region’s most pretty restaurant. Presided over by maestro chef Robert Bardot, Moulin a Huile serves delectable Provencal cuisine in the most pleasant of surroundings – in winter, you dine in a draped, stone-wall dining room inside an old mill. At the same time, in the summer, a delightful summer terrace awaits overlooking the river. The food is similarly spectacular: Ventoux pork, Colombier pigeon, and baked sea trout are all utterly delicious. Indeed, Bardot’s presentation is a work of art, and every mouthful is a riot of taste. The same applies to the wine list: Bardot has spent years building up an enviable selection of excellent wines from every notable region in southern France—an unmissable part of any gastronomic trip through Provence.

Website: www.lemoulinahuile84.fr


Bistro Du’O

Bistro Du'O, La Haute Ville, Rue du Château, 84110 Vaison-la-Romaine

Situated in an old stable in the most idyllic of Provencal towns, Bistro Du’O is one of our favorite restaurants in southern France. Located in a renovated stable, Bistro Du’O is run by the most genial and welcoming hosts, Phillippe and Gaelle. Together, they run a very classy establishment, which serves a small but exciting range of local dishes based on only the freshest seasonal ingredients. The menu changes daily to ensure everything on your plate is hearty and super-fresh, a genuine celebration of the finer things in life! Wine lovers are also in for a major treat, as Phillippe and Gaelle work with a top-notch Gigondas producer, so expect many a vintage of this venerable Rhone wine.

Website: www.bistroduo.fr


Le Souk

Le Souk, 100 quai du Port, Marseille

Located in Marseille’s vibrant seafront quarter, Le Souk offers a welcome respite from traditional Provencal cuisine and will appeal to travelers looking for something different. Thanks to Marseille’s heritage, lovers of the spicy and exotic can sample some of the best North-African food on this side of the Med at Le Souk. Their specialties include the best lamb/chicken tajine that we’ve eaten in France, a range of slow-cooked vegetable stews, and delicious almond and pistachio pastries saturated in honey. Indeed, a feast for all the senses awaits you at Le Souk.

Website: www.restaurantlesouk.com

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Genevieve Mc Carthy

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