Bolgheri Wine Region Guide

Winemaking and regional classifications

Every collector worth their salt is familiar with the blue-chip wines of Bolgheri: Masseto, Ornellaia, Sassicaia, and Gaudo al Tasso, to name a select few. But, while the winemaking philosophies at estates like Sassicaia and Ornellaia differ significantly, their shared love for Bordeaux varieties, particularly Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot, links this pantheon of great estates. They are typically blended (Masseto is a notable exception: 100% Merlot a la Petrus) to produce red wines of incredible depth and concentration, renowned for their silky tannins and opulent fruit. They are among the finest – and most expensive – labels being made in Italy today.

Yet Bolgheri is far more diverse than it is generally given credit for. For decades, the authorities refused to recognize these heterodox wines made in western Tuscany officially. So they were sold as mere Vino da Tavola, upgraded to Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) Toscana in 1992. The upside, however, of this bureaucratic rejection was the freedom to experiment with hitherto unseen grape varieties, including (but not limited to) red and white Bordeaux grapes, Syrah, Petit Manseng, Marsannne, and Vermentino. Even today, some winemakers prefer to label their wines IGT Toscana, taking advantage of the flexibility and liberalism that defines this very progressive designation.

Bolgheri DOC and Varietal Flexibility

Nevertheless, Bolgheri DOC is an important part of the local landscape, introduced in 1994 after much campaigning and lobbying from the area’s leading producers. According to the framework, a Bolgheri Rosso, Rosso Superiore, or Rosé can be a mono-varietal style (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, or Cabernet Franc) or a blend containing any percentages of this noble trio of red grapes. In addition, Syrah and/or Sangiovese can make up to 50 percent of the final blend; Petit Verdot can constitute no more than 30%. During his tenure at Ornellaia, Axel Heinz was a cautious advocate of this superlative (if capricious) variety, observing that “Petit Verdot is like adding seasoning to food; it can either improve it or ruin it if you add too much.” But there is no doubt that a dash of ripe Petit Verdot can add welcome structure, spice, and aromatics to the blend.

Of course, opinions on Petit Verdot and anything else you could mention vary from property to property in Bolgheri. Some estates favor a long extraction and aging in new French barrique, while others prefer a gentler approach, maturing their wines in used wood, amphorae, or concrete. As a general rule, however, winemakers age most of the deluxe Bordeaux blends in French oak — Sassicaia, for example, prefers a long aging period of 24 months in about 45% new wood.

Meanwhile, winemakers fermented Ornellaia’s Grand Vin in a mixture of stainless steel and concrete tanks at relatively low temperatures (86°F) in 2021, then aged it in 70% new wood for 18 months. They aged it for an additional 12 months before its release. Critics generally describe Sassicaia as a wine that resembles Margaux in its hauntingly beautiful perfume and fine structure. At the same time, critics consider Ornellaia a more opulent, exotic expression of the soils and climate of western Tuscany.

Emerging Trends in White Wine Production

However, red wines do not hold a monopoly in Bolgheri: winemakers also produce a growing volume of excellent white wine here. Again, the exact composition of the blend will vary; the 2019 vintage of Ornellaia Bianco was a funky mixture of 81% Sauvignon Blanc and 19% Viognier, aged in new French oak for approximately 12 months. My tasting notes read: “The wine is supremely elegant and already quite complex, with notes of wood smoke, citrus, gooseberry, and guava on the silky palate. Impeccably balanced and fresh, this can only get better.” Yet earlier vintages also contained a dollop of Petit Manseng, used to add texture and spice. However, other growers allow Vermentino and/or Trebbiano to dominate, producing a fresh and fruity style. But, they can scarcely hold a candle to the best whites of Ornellaia and Ca’ Marcanda with their silky textures, great complexity, and invigorating freshness.

Geography and terroir

Although Bolgheri’s landscape is every bit as enchanting as the rolling hills of Chianti Classico, much of the region feels totally unspoiled and timeless; the tourist hordes have not yet discovered the Tyrrhenian coastline and its numerous attractions. Thus, local winegrowers can tend to their vines in relative peace, albeit jet-setting oenophiles are increasingly drawn to Bolgheri’s cute little town and the Enoteca de Centro.

Bolgheri is located south of Livorno city, bordered by Suvereto to the southeast (another up-and-coming appellation) and Val di Cornia to the south. Today, approximately 1110 hectares are under vine—sea-facing vineyards spread out in all directions from Bolgheri’s center, sloping westward toward the Tyrrhenian Sea. It is a spectacular and utterly idyllic place to make wine, drawing in investors from across the globe.

Axel Heinz’s Insights on Bolgheri’s Terroir

Indeed, no man understands Bolgheri’s potential more than Axel Heinz: Ornellaia’s erstwhile winemaker and director has since relocated to Chateau Lascombes in Margaux. Nonetheless, Heinz spent over 17 years studying the ancient marine soils of Bolgheri, which are often favorably compared to Bordeaux. There is a great deal of clay-limestone and gravel (much like the Medoc), and while the finest sites tend to be planted on deep bands of clay, the soil’s porous structure provides vital reserves of moisture during the summer months.

“Our terroir is quite amazing,” said Heinz during an interview in 2016. “The vineyard’s proximity to the Tyrrhenian sea has a massive impact on the microclimate, moderating temperatures significantly during the summer months, especially in the evenings. It creates a hybrid maritime-Mediterranean climate, aided by the altitude of our vines, spread out on rocky hill sides.” Meanwhile, the sea plays an important role in reflecting sunlight back into the vineyards – Heinz believed this is why Bolgheri produces such dense and lush expressions of the Cabernet Sauvignon grape.

Yet recent vintages have been challenging: sweltering heat and prolonged drought in 2022 necessitated irrigation, a measure of last resort that many winegrowers are reluctant to embrace. At the time, Francesco Mazzei, president of the Maremma consortium, admitted that “drip irrigation was a crucial element in minimizing plant stress, in July and August – those who had access to it – used it every day.” Therefore, maintaining freshness and acidity in the wines is likely to remain a real challenge in this corner of western Tuscany. Fortunately, some very talented winemakers in Bolgheri understand how to mitigate the intense heat that is increasingly becoming a fact of life in Western Europe. Efficient canopy management (emphasizing protecting the grapes from sunlight as much as possible), maintaining organic nutrients in the soil, and coating the leaves with kaolin ( white rock powder) are all effective countermeasures.

Bolgheri gastronomy

One of the most iconic sights in the region is the spectacular five-kilometer-long cypress avenue that transports visitors to the beating heart of Bolgheri’s old town. There you will discover a series of charming enoteche (wine bars) – a temple of both superlative food and exceptional wine. There is always a surfeit of local vintages to sample, washed down with game – duck, pigeon, and pheasant are local specialties – pasta dishes, bistecca alla Fiorentina, and quality salami and cheese. Many of the best destinations have outdoor terraces: super-romantic al fresco dining on a balmy summer’s evening.

A Guide to the Gastronomy of Tuscany: Read more