Ainhoa

History

Following the disintegration of Roman rule in France, the province of Aquitania came under the control of the Visigoth tribes from northern Europe. They, in turn, lost power to the Franks, and the Vikings captured the resort town of Biarritz in 840. Their hold over the Basque province ended in 982 when the Basque Duke William II Sanchez of Gascony defeated the Vikings in a battle for Biarritz. One of his first tasks was to reintroduce Christianity to the region; monasteries soon sprung up all over this part of the Basque country, although Ainhoa was only first mentioned officially in writing as a parish in the 13th century.

In the Middle Ages, Ainhoa was mostly under English control following the marriage between Henry II of England and Eleanor of Aquitaine. The King suddenly had power over the French provinces of Aquitaine and Gascony, giving him lucrative control over a key part of the Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage route. Ainhoa had long been an essential stop on the pilgrims’ path to Santiago, as many of the routes from France converged on the village, and tolls were charged to allow pilgrims to continue through to Spain. In 1238, the Navarrese king Theobald I purchased these toll rights, the village being right on the Aquitaine/Navarrese border. Here-after tensions were high between the two neighboring states, and many military clashes took place over the decades. In 1280, the ruler of Ainhoa officially recognized the suzerainty of the Duchy of Aquitaine, and tensions subsided.

However, the next century was marked by unrest and turbulence as during the 100 years war, the French King Philip IV battled Edward I for control of the region. Philip kept control of the province until the Treaty of Paris in 1303; after that, it was part of the English throne. In the 17th century, the Spanish invaded the French Basque coast during the Thirty Years War, and Ainhoa was destroyed following a bloody battle for the territory. The village subsequently was rebuilt following the peace-affirming marriage between Maria Theresa of Spain and Louis XIV of France. All that remains from the destruction are the village’s church and the Machitorénéa House.

The 18th century was mainly a peaceful and prosperous time for the residents of Ainhoa, although several important events did take place during the period. In 1724, the residents of Ainhoa protested against a new salt tax, which was damaging their lucrative livelihood from mining, which was the mainstay of Ainhoa’s economy for many years. In 1726, a massive uprising took place, and the taxes were overturned. Indeed, the French Basque region and Ainhoa enjoyed much self-determination for most of the 1700s. However, the French revolution and subsequent abolition of the monarchy centralized the government. France’s First Republic was proclaimed, and local privileges that were granted by the old regime were abolished.

Gastronomy & Wine

Basque citizens take their food and drink very, very seriously! Their passion for good food, combined with the classical Gallic sensibility about the importance of gastronomy, means that visitors are sure to enter gastronomic heaven when visiting one of the Basque country’s coastal resorts. And despite the size of Ainhoa, the variety of places to eat is impressive, with formal restaurants, cafes, and local family-run haunts for every budget and occasion.

Typically, French Basque cuisine is heavily influenced by its proximity to the Atlantic, making Ainhoa a seafood lover’s paradise. Fundamentally, Basque cooking is all about the finest, local, and seasonal ingredients rather than using creamy sauces to smother the natural flavors. Highlights in Ainhoa include fresh fish, which is unbeatable and should always be the first choice for discerning visitors. Cod, hake, and fresh tuna are popular when the oysters are in season. They sell out fast! The French influence comes across strongly, with many restaurants offering game, foie gras, and Bayonne ham as specialties. Our top choice for exquisite, refined French Basque cuisine in Ainhoa would be Ithurria on the Place du Fronton. For a more traditional and rustic experience, try the equally excellent La Maison Oppoca on le Bourg street.

Regards to wine production, in nearby Saint-Étienne-de-Baïgorry, you will find the intriguing Irouléguy AOC wines, with dry red, rosé, and white styles made with Bordelesa Beltza (Tannat) and Axeria (Cabernet Franc), Xuri Zerratia (Petit Courbu), and Izkiriota Ttipia (Petit Manseng). Recommended estates include Domaine Arretxea, Domaine Etxegaraya, Domaine Ilarria, Domaine Mourguy, and Vignerons du Pays Basque. Then across the border along the Spanish Basque coast near Getaria, you will find a crisp, delicious white in the form of Txakoli. Finally, of course, local restaurants will serve a variety of French and Spanish wines.