Sarlat

History

Sarlat’s origins are shrouded with mystery, but we do know that the settlement came into existence long after the Roman conquest of Gaul and subsequent collapse of the western Roman empire in the 5th century. Historians believe that the impetus for the settlements’ growth was an important Benedictine Abbey, which is mentioned in monastic writings in 1081. During the 9th century, Vikings from northern Scandinavia would raid French coastal towns and venture into the Dordogne river, ransacking settlements within reach. However, the town’s remoteness, being over 35 miles from the banks of the river, escaped the Viking hoards and enjoyed a peaceful existence for many centuries.

The Sarlat monastic estate remained independent from French rule into the 12th century. The territory was controlled by the Vatican, which included the modern-day cities of Agen and Toulouse. Its religious importance for Christians across France ensured its freedom, in 1181 the French King, Philip Augustus, pledged his commitment to protecting the city from attack. Then in the 14th century, Pope John XXII elevated the abbey’s Church to a Cathedral and started the process of renovating the Cathedral Saint Sacerdos to the ornate Gothic masterpiece, which we see today. With its religious importance and fame spreading, Sarlat’s continued prosperity and growth seemed assured.

Sadly, the advent of the Great Plague at the end of the 13th century killed over half of Sarlat’s population, this and the Hundred Years Wars between the Capetian rulers of Paris and the Anglo-Normans would bring more turbulence to the lives of the town’s citizens. However, while the town did serve as a base of operations for French soldiers, it was never once subject to a siege or forcefully taken by the English. As a result of the Treaty of Bretigny, enforced from 1360, Sarlat was under English jurisdiction until 1370, when the Constable Bertrand du Guesclin rallied the towns’ citizens to resist English rule.

After that Sarlat would enter a golden age of peace, growth, and prosperity, as the now thriving town benefited from trade along the Dordogne route and also as a significant center of religious significance in France. Pilgrims would journey far and wide to marvel at its splendid Abbey and Cathedral, while the town’s rapidly growing middle class built grand mansions to display their new-found wealth.

However, despite the seemingly never-ending prosperity, these good times were interrupted by the arrival of the French Wars of religion in the 16th century. During this period, the French aristocracy began supporting the concept of secular over religious rule; many battles were fought between Catholics and Protestants over the century. Sarlat was taken by Protestant supporters in February 1574 and then recaptured by Catholics in the space of just under three months! Subsequently, the Protestant supporter Viscount of Turenne lay siege to Sarlat and destroyed most of the town’s walls and defenses. Ultimately though, he was unsuccessful, and the Wars of religion ended with the conversion of Henri IV to Catholicism in 1593.

The subsequent turmoil of the French Revolution of 1789, which overthrew the ruling aristocracy did little to affect the day to day lives of Sarlat’s citizens. The town was never directly involved in the fighting, and no battles took place within its walls. As a result, Sarlat continued to prosper in the 19th century; many important public works were built, including the town’s first railway station in 1882, with a direct link to Bordeaux City. This move was crucial in ending Sarlat’s remoteness, although it was this geographical isolation that has preserved its beautiful medieval streets and character.

Gastronomy & Wine

Two things are taken very seriously in France indeed – Sarlat has a long and proud gastronomic tradition that is faithfully maintained today. The region is renowned for its foie gras production and some of the finest game – particularly duck – that can be enjoyed in France. Many delights await the hungry visitor, including wonderful artisan cheeses, local and inexpensive wines, wild mushrooms, and, of course, the prized truffles of Perigord.

Indeed, gourmets are in for a treat as the variety of places to eat in Sarlat is enormous. Throughout the day, lovely pavement cafes will keep you fueled, while for something more substantial, Sarlat’s bistros offer full menus and often have excellent value lunch menus. Many have summer terraces that are perfect for sipping wine in a crowded square while you choose your lunch – bliss! Restaurants are dotted around the historic center of town; some of our favorites include L’instant Delice and Gueule et Gosier. Both offer local cuisine at affordable prices – book well in advance in the summer months. Locals are very loud about their produce and traditions, so they expect abundant foie gras. Goose and duck will also feature heavily on menus. Fresh-water seafood from the Dordogne is another treat, as is visiting during truffle season that runs from November after the foraging begins into February. The black truffles of Périgord are renowned for their wonderful flavor and scent – often described as chocolate and earth – indeed, they are a highly prized gastronomic item by chefs worldwide.

Wine lovers are also well catered for in Sarlat; along the banks of the Dordogne, many excellent wine regions produce great value fruity red and whites and wines of real class and distinction for the longer term. Highlights include the excellent value wines of Bergerac and the stunning dessert whites of Monbazillac, which can often rival the wines from Sauternes. The reds are predominately composed of classic Bordeaux varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc, while the whites are usually a blend of Semillion, Muscadelle, and Sauvignon Blanc. In most of Sarlat’s restaurants, you can expect a good selection of local wines, while the finest establishments will have extensive lists that span the majority of France. But of course, locals will insist that you drink their wines!