Vacqueyras Wine Region Guide

Winemaking and regional classifications

There is a strong and historic culture blending different grape varieties in Vacqueyras. This is done for several reasons: blending increases complexity; it offers an insurance policy if one (or more) of the appellation’s signature varieties suffer a disaster like the hail storms of 2019. It gives the winemaker more options and room to maneuver. This is enshrined in the appellation law, which states that every bottle of Vacqueyras rouge must contain at least 50% Grenache and 20% Syrah and/or Mourvedre. The wine is ”topped up” with ancillary grapes like Carignan and Cinsault – the latter was banned until relatively recently.

Diverse Winemaking Techniques

However, approaches to winemaking and maturation vary significantly in Vacqueyras. There are the usual arguments about the role of new oak, in addition to wildly differing viewpoints on adding stems to the must. Indeed, destemmed whole bunches, stemmed whole bunches, crushed berries, and destemmed whole berries may find their way into the fermentation vat, producing very different styles of red wine. Yet many growers prefer to closely monitor the fermentation temperature, as excessive heat can lead to jammy and burnt flavors. Most Vacqueyras is based on a fairly extensive vinification and maceration, with aging in large oak vats (foudres) or steel.

The Rise of Concrete Eggs and Oak Barrels

Concrete eggs have also become very popular in the Rhône, as there is no flavor pickup from these neutral vessels; however, they allow a very minor and precise level of oxygen ingress, which enhances wine complexity. New oak and used Burgundian barrels are not the height of fashion in Vacqueyras, not least due to the considerable expense of the former. Nonetheless, some of the best domaines use new oak for their top cuvées, adding a touch of spice and exoticism to these opulent wines.

White and Rosé Production

Additional cash flow is generated from the production of white and rosé styles. According to the AOC framework, one single variety cannot account for more than 80 percent of the white blend; this could be Marsanne, Roussanne, or Grenache Blanc, enlivened with a dash of Viognier, Clariette, or perhaps Bourboulenc. Thus, white Vacqueyras is as unpredictable as Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc. Almost every producer has a different idea about the perfect blend, and vinification methods vary likewise. That said, cool fermentation in stainless steel generally yields the best results if the winemaker desires upfront fruit and boisterous aromatics. Such wines are far more likely to seduce visiting buyers and sommeliers than the stale, oxidative dross of old.

Geography and terroir

Vacqueyras is not a renowned vineyard in the southern Rhône – that honor falls to Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Yet it is a respected producer of high-quality red, white, and rosé wines, exported to countries as diverse as the US, China, and the UK. With an emphasis on affordability, these food-friendly wines should continue to pique the world’s interest in the future. Artisans make them in a classic Mediterranean setting, interspersing lavender and thyme with vines and extensive woodland. In the blistering heat of July, the only audible sounds are the mating calls of the cicadas, which exist undisturbed until it is time to harvest the grapes. This will often happen in late August, as grape maturity is seldom a concern in the very hot and dry Mediterranean climate of Vacqueyras.

The Viticultural Landscape of Vacqueyras

The area under vine is located southwest of Gigondas, with the vast majority planted in the northern half of the appellation. In Vacqueyras, farmers cultivate approximately 1477 hectares, including a small percentage (about 5%) of white grape varieties. However, there is an abundance of Grenache, in addition to Syrah and Mourvedre. Grenache has always been the star of the southern Rhône, not least because this robust, late-ripening grape can handle the fierce heat of a Vacqueyras summer. Growers plant the finest climats (vineyard sites) with old bush vines on the foothills of the Dentelles de Montmirail mountain range, locally known as the “Plateau de Garrigues”.

Soil Diversity and Wine Profiles

These calcareous soils offer an adequate supply of moisture during the summer; however, little limestone is found at lower altitudes on the ancient alluvial terraces of the region. Instead, growers make the most of sandy-clay terroir, peppered with small, round stones that invoke the galets of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Porous clay subsoils are a vital part of the local quality equation in the zone, supplying the vines with enough water during July and August. However, it is undeniable that the most structured and age-worthy wines are based on fruit grown in the Plateau de Garrigues. Meanwhile, the alluvial terraces of Vacqueyras yield very fragrant and ripe Grenache reds with moderate tannin, acidity, and extract. They are charming wines for the short-to-medium term.

The lowdown

Although its total acreage – and production volumes – are dwarfed by Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Vacqueyras is increasingly one of the Rhône’sRhône’s most exciting wine regions. The best reds of this up-and-coming vineyard, led by the resurgent Grenache Noir, are utterly splendid: heady and aromatic expressions of the grape, with additional structure and depth provided by Syrah and Mourvedre. Carignan and Cinsault also play a (small) role here, adding freshness and a certain spicy edge to the final cuvée. Moreover, there is rarely the excess of new oak you can taste in other parts of the southern Rhône, and prices have remained very stable. In short, there is no excuse for not adding a case – or two – of Vacqueyras rouge to your burgeoning wine cellar.

The Excellence of Vacqueyras Blanc

Hot on their heels, Vacqueyras Blanc is getting better with every vintage. Again, relatively little is made compared to the considerable amount of Côtes du Rhône white you can find, but the quality is often far superior. Indeed, winegrowers in the appellation have a real knack for producing very fresh and complex whites, not least due to the desirable palate of grape varieties they can choose from. Local blends, especially based on Marsanne, Viognier, Bourboulenc, and/or Grenache Blanc, already have stellar reputations in the restaurants and bistros of Avignon and Orange. With time, that renown is likely to spread further afield.

Challenges and Considerations

Of course, it’s not all sweetness and light in Vacqueyras. Some producers need to keep an eye on the alcohol levels – more is not necessarily better! Particularly in light of the torrid 2018, 2020, and 2022 vintages, where some soupy and rather flabby wines were made. Elsewhere, you will occasionally encounter the lazy or cynical grower, content to exploit the good name of the region and churn out dross. But, all in all, Vacqueyras is becoming one of the most consistent and impressive names in the southern Rhône today.

Vacqueyras gastronomy

The small village of Vacqueyras is not full of good restaurants, so our best advice is to head to nearby Orange. Considering the fame of its Roman theater, the town itself is relatively untouristy and very quiet in the winter. Hurrah! -you can enjoy a leisurely meal in complete tranquility. Classic fare might include marinated lamb from the Camargue, grilled trout with herbs, and pan-seared scallops. Locals love all three options: just follow their lead.