Asti Wine Region Guide

Geography and terroir

The handsome town of Asti is surrounded by an evocative landscape of vines, rolling hills, and distant mountaintops. Within this snapshot of Piedmontese rural life are several key appellations whose geographical boundaries often overlap: the vineyards of Barbera d’Asti, for example, extend into the Moscato d’Asti zone, located further south.

Wineries have planted approximately 9700 hectares of Muscat Blanc á Petits Grain, 3900 hectares of Barbera, and 230 hectares of Dolcetto.

Today, approximately 9700 hectares of Muscat Blanc á Petits Grain are planted, in addition to 3900 hectares of Barbera and 230 hectares of Dolcetto. Producers cultivate Dolcetto in a relatively small geographical area located southeast of Asti in the famous Langhe hills that flank the iconic terroirs of Barolo and Barbaresco.

However, there is a great deal of overlap – it can be challenging to pinpoint precisely where Barbera d’Asti begins and Dolcetto ends!

Focus on Sparkling Wine Production

However, sparkling wine production is the main focus of life in the hills of Asti, built around Piedmont’s signature white variety. Indeed, the wine is made entirely from Moscato grapes, cultivated in 53 communes throughout the provinces of Asti, Cuneo, and Alessandria in northwest Italy. Here, one encounters a broad variance in growing conditions, with significant differences in soil, elevation, and aspect.

In extreme cases, vineyard sites rise to over 600 meters above sea level, though many sit between 300 and 400 meters. These altitudes make it easier to maintain wine freshness; Piedmont is renowned for its cold winters and hot, dry summers. And Asti is no exception.

Yet the terroir is highly conducive to quality wine growing—any deficiencies in mass-market Asti derive from excessive yields and winemaking, not unsuitable terrain. This is especially true of the clay-limestone soils around Casale Monferrato and south of Canelli.

Meanwhile, vineyards closer to the River Tanaro tend to have more sand in the topsoil, a product of millions of years of climate shifts and gradual erosion.

Rules and Terroir Promotion

The DOCG rules allow mentioning certain subzones, including Canelli, Santa Vittoria d’Alba, and Strevi, on bottle labels. In reality, however, the major houses and their investors show little interest in promoting terroir.

Most Asti wines are regional blends, often reliant on grapes sourced from a wide geographical area.

That said, blind tastings can detect stylistic differences; growers in Alessandria tend to produce Asti Spumante with higher alcohol and lower acidity levels due to the warmer mesoclimate.

Meanwhile, Castiglione Tinella wines often showcase vibrant aromatics and great freshness, two valuable qualities when producing Moscato fizz. As elsewhere, the most prized climats are typically planted on steep hillsides – vineyards that benefit from good exposure and diurnal temperature variation.

Winemaking and regional classifications

There are four principal wine styles made in the Asti region: Barbera d’Asti, Dolcetto d’Asti, Moscato d’Asti, and Asti (formerly Asti Spumante). The first is covered in extensive detail here, and the second is relatively straightforward. But Moscato d’Asti and Asti generate no end of confusion among professionals and drinkers!

Thankfully, that is not the case with Dolcetto. The third red grape of Piedmont yields utterly delicious wine in the province of Asti – dense and fruity. It has long dominated vineyards in the hills between Alba and the coast, but growers have replaced certain parcels with Nebbiolo due to its higher price per kilo.

DOC Requirements

Nevertheless, many stay loyal to the grape, partly because it is relatively easy to grow. Under the DOC framework, all Dolcetto d’Asti must be a mono-varietal wine aged for a minimum of 12 months if the grower aspires to Superiore status.

However, attitudes and approaches to vinifying Dolcetto vary significantly in terms of winemaking. One school of thought emphasizes protecting fruit and finesse: the berries are crushed, chilled, and fermented at low temperatures in stainless steel tanks.

A relatively brief maceration yields an expressive, fruity wine that showcases the ripe blackberry and plum flavors. Dolcetto translates into “little sweet one”—an apt description.

Yet, its nickname can also be misleading: Dolcetto’s dark skins contain a fair amount of tannin and coloring pigments, unlike Pinot Noir. These qualities can be accentuated via whole bunch fermentation and a lengthier post-fermentation maceration – some producers age their Dolcetto in oak to beef up the structure and complexity.

However, old Burgundy barrels or Slavonian oak are usually the vessels of choice: one hundred percent new barrique rarely flatters Dolcetto.

Meanwhile, the production of Asti Spumante, a unique sparkling wine, is a process steeped in tradition. The regional boundaries for Asti Spumante and Moscato d’Asti are the same, but the taste profile can be quite different. Asti Spumante is a sweet, fully sparkling wine with 7-9% alcohol, made in industrial conditions.

Large volumes of grapes are pressed, extracting a maximum of 75 liters of juice from 100kg of grapes. The must is then fined and filtered before being chilled to zero degrees. In a tradition unique to Asti, the must is kept chilled until the producer requires new stock.

Characteristics of Asti

In the case of Asti, an initial fermentation will take place in stainless steel until the alcohol reaches five percent. A second vinification will occur at higher temperatures (normally 68˚F), dissolving CO2 into the wine.

When the alcohol reaches approximately 9% ABV, it will be filtered and bottled under pressure with a large amount of residual sugar. Sugary-sweet and quaffable fizz for those who find Prosecco too dry!

However, although Asti and Moscato d’Asti can be produced from the same base must, the scale of production is very different. Quality-focused wineries make a relatively small amount of Moscato compared to its more famous sibling, using the ‘cuve-close,’ or Asti, method to create a very gentle sparkling wine with low pressure.

As a result, the wine does not undergo a second fermentation in tank and is bottled after the alcohol reaches 5 percent. The primary vinification will dissolve a modest amount of carbon dioxide into the wine – the French call this style pétillant.

These wines are best consumed young – the first wines of the vintage often arrive on shelves less than two months after the harvest. At its best, Moscato d’Asti is a delicious sparkling wine: light as a feather and very fragrant. Sadly, there is a tendency to deride sweeter styles in wine circles, albeit it is undoubtedly true that mass-market Asti is dreary stuff.

Yet small-scale Moscato can be an incredible bargain. Its fine mousse, stone fruit aromas, and luscious sweetness are custom-built for the dessert course. Moreover, the price undercuts top-end Sauternes by a significant margin.

Asti gastronomy

Asti is no slouch in the culinary department despite its relatively small size. Pay a visit to the Campo del Palio on the weekend, and you’ll see what we mean: a glorious food market awaits, with everything from white truffles (when in season) to veal sausages.

Meanwhile, the centro storico has more than its fair share of excellent osterie, serving fresh pasta, exquisite risotto, and the always divine filetto di manzo (beef tenderloin with a red wine sauce).

A Gastronomic Guide to the Cuisine of Piedmont: Read more