Cudillero Travel Guide

The aptly named Costa Verde or Green Coast is one of northern Spain’s greatest secrets – a succession of attractive sandy coves and dramatic cliffs punctuated by deep estuaries and numerous fishing villages. Among our favorites is Cudillero, a delightful destination full of outdoor cafes and excellent seafood restaurants, which crowd the picturesque plaza beside the port. Behind, cottages painted in a rainbow of pastel colors are scattered over the steep hillside – indeed, this is the antithesis of an over-developed, tacky Spanish resort.

Cudillero is situated in the Spanish region of Asturias, which Neanderthals initially inhabited before local Celtic tribes, known as the Astures, exerted their cultural influence over the region we know as Asturias. They controlled the area until the Romans invaded in 29 BC, led by the First Roman Emperor Augustus.

However, although the Romans controlled much of the Spanish Peninsula, the forbidding terrain of Asturias presented a much more significant challenge, and the Roman cultural influence on this part of Spain was negligible. After the collapse of the Roman Empire in the 5th century, Asturias would remain out of reach for both the Visigoth tribes, who established a capital in Toledo in the 6th century AD, and subsequently the Moors from North Africa.

Indeed, Asturias is very proud that it resisted invasion by the Moors – the reconquest of Spain is said to have begun in 718 when Christians defeated a Moorish force at Covadonga in the Picos de Europa. Subsequently, in 722, a de-facto independent kingdom was established in Asturias called the Regnum Asturoum.

Nonetheless, the history of Cudillero is extremely murky during this period. The first clues appeared in 905 when King Alfonso III was recorded donating funds to churches in the region where Cudillero is today. Then, in the 13th century, a certain Arias González Valdés Obona makes a reference in 1285 to: “a floor in the port of Cudillero, where they could sell bread and a cottage with a sea view that no man can obstruct.”

According to this historian Agustín Bravo, Cudillero’s first inhabitants were fishermen from other ports of the Cantabrian coast, or perhaps people who had escaped the Normans, who settled on this part of the coast due to its east entry and shelter from the more extreme weather of the Atlantic. Over time, particularly in the 15th century, Cudillero became a major fishing center in Asturias, and intrepid fishermen would sail to Scotland and Belgium in search of the perfect catch. Later, during the Spanish conquest of The New World, many sailors from Asturias would play a vital role in the conquest of the Americas. Cudillero’s reputation spread throughout the Spanish Empire.

The 18th century heralded a golden era for the people of Asturias; during the ‘Age of Enlightenment,’ Asturias was one of the great centers of learning and produced several notable thinkers and reformers during the period.

Sadly, the tragic events of the Spanish Civil War would affect the lives of many of Cudillero’s citizens and everyone in Spain. The conflict between the military dictator Franco and the Republican government occurred between 1936 and 1939; both sides committed terrible atrocities, including the murder of 7000 priests, monks, and nuns.

Franco declared himself the victor in 1939 and remained in power until he died in 1975. Franco kept Spain out of both World War Two, but under his dictatorship, personal freedom was severely restricted – divorce was made illegal, and church weddings were compulsory.

Asturias, however, was very much on the side of the Republic. A few months before the Civil War began, the extreme right had been responsible for the shooting of the leader of the Republican Left of Cudillero, Bonifacio Lopez. Therefore tensions were already high, and for a time, the Republicans controlled Oviedo. Unfortunately, Asturias fell to the Nationalists during the battle of El Mazuco in 1937. Many citizens fled to neighboring France during the conflict to escape reprisals from the Nationalist forces, draining the region of its workforce and lifeblood.

After Franco’s death, Spain made a remarkably smooth transition to democracy, and Asturias was granted a much-deserved autonomous status in 1981. The village quickly recovered from the Franco years, and in 1984, the town completed the construction of a new port. Finally, peace and prosperity returned to this unique corner of northern Spain.

Today, Cudillero remains one of Spain’s most charming seaside villages, imbued with remarkable scenic beauty and a lively historic center, which comes alive in the summer months. Yet despite the number of visitors from neighboring regions, Cudillero never feels over-crowded, and a welcoming, relaxed vibe permeates this must-visit part of the majestic Costa Verde.