Pla de Bages Wine Region Guide

Winemaking and regional classifications

Within Catalunya, Pla de Bages is widely associated with producing aromatic white wines – reliably crisp and fruity. The sommeliers’ favorite, of course, is Picapoll; old bush vines yield very complex and perfumed grapes, brimming with garrigue, citrus, and apricot notes. Moreover, even the best producers rarely charge the earth for these magnificent wines. Picapoll’s ability to maintain good acidity, even in the hot climate of rural Catalunya, is a major part of the attraction. For that reason, growers are planting more each year.

Sparkling wine is another growing niche in Pla de Bages. Vino de Aguja is a specialty of the DO: the term translates as ‘needle wine.’ But, as off-putting as that sounds, it only refers to the slight spritz on the tongue. This is achieved via carbonation or, more traditionally, bottling wine with a bit of remaining sugar and yeast. It does not resemble Cava in any way, as the level of carbon dioxide is minimal, and the traditional method is not used. However, ‘Vino Espumosos de Calidad’ are made in the same way as Champagne, produced in a sweet and dry style.

They are high-quality alternatives to Cava and Corpinnat, although the volumes pale in comparison. That theme continues with the Vino Dulce Naturales and Vino Rancios. The former involves adding grape spirit to sun-dried grapes during fermentation; Vino Rancios are maderized in clear glass demijohns and left to bake in the Spanish sun. They closely resemble Madeira and are delicious with Crema Catalana. But Mistela (a mixture of grape must and spirit) is definitely an acquired taste. We’ve yet to acquire it.

Red wines, however, are very popular with both visitors and locals. Blending is a veritable art form in Pla de Bages: Cabernet Sauvignon/Tempranillo concoctions can electrify the palate, in addition to Bordeaux blends and Syrah/Cabernet wines. Top labels inevitably spend some time in new oak – preferably French. They share much in common with the red wines of Penedes: intense concentration and ripe tannins. They are also very affordable.

Geography and terroir

Pla de Bages unveils a mesmerizing beauty in the fall: veils of mist enfold its valleys as vine growers nurture their crops. This hidden gem lies just 50 kilometers northwest of Barcelona, offering a serene escape from the bustling Catalan metropolis.

Most vineyards are on either side of the River Llobregat and its tributaries, flanked by towering mountains and hilltop monasteries. Today over 25 different municipalities are entitled to use the designation’ DO Pla de Bages,’ many encircling Manresa. Splendid isolation is the word that comes to mind: this is one of Catalunya’s least densely populated regions. To the east is the up-and-coming DO Emporda; Priorat and Terra Alta are found southwest of Pla de Bages.

Meanwhile, the local climate is a hybrid: Mediterranean and continental influences. Hot summers and cold winters are the standard, with about 550mm of annual rainfall. Yet diurnal temperature variation is a significant force for good in the region due to the abundance of high-elevation terroirs.

However, the appellation has two distinct subzones, and growing conditions can vary substantially. Vineyards planted in the central river basin enjoy a warmer mesoclimate, as the altitude is relatively low by Catalan standards (200 meters above sea level). Red grape varieties tend to do better here, cultivated on clay soils. But the Alt Bages (Upper Bages) is a whole different story: vineyards rise to over 500m in some places, with a concomitant higher level of diurnal temperature variation and more freshness in the wines. Calcareous soils are ideally suited to white varieties, particularly Chardonnay, Macabeo, and Picapoll.

The lowdown

It is an understatement to say that Pla de Bages is enjoying its moment in the sun. Although the total acreage is a pale shadow of the mid-19th century, the region has fully recovered from the phylloxera pandemic – and then some! Indeed, the post-Franco years witnessed the death of state monopolies – responsible for absolute dross- and the emergence of family-owned wineries. Their ethos and level of ambitions can vary significantly, albeit many are focused on exporting a greater volume of wine to key markets like the US and Hong Kong. They have established their own winemaking styles and respective niches, with fresh and fruity whites being the obvious highlight. If there is one slightly regrettable development, it is that too many bodegas make wines acceptable to Western supermarkets from predictable grape varieties – “not another Merlot,” etc.

Nevertheless, the last 25 years have been revolutionary. Winemakers have invested capital and revenue into improving cellar equipment and increasing the area under vine. Yet, for many critics, the greatest gift to oenophiles is a long-established tradition: the seductive essences of old vine Picapoll. And so the focus of our discussion returns to esoteric flavors and original tastes – nectar of the gods for wine geeks and sommeliers. As far as they’re concerned, this is where the magic lies.

Pla de Bages gastronomy

Gastronomes rave about northeastern Spain: Catalan food is among Europe’s best, and you’ll have plenty of opportunities to indulge your desires in the quieter parts of Catalunya. Hearty meat and game dishes are a staple of Pla de Bages and its environs; olla aranesa (a rich, filling stew) is served in almost every tavern in Manresa during the winter months. In the summer, however, even inland chefs will offer some delicious seafood, including langoustines, squid, and octopus.

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