Empordà Wine Region Guide

Geography and terroir

La Costa Brava, the rocky, rugged coastline along Spain’s northeastern shore, is far better known for its lovely seaside resorts and wave-lapped beaches than for its wines. Yet, on the border with Roussillon and further south in Baix Empordà, are vineyards of considerable potential, let down in the past by rustic equipment and poor winemaking. Still, nothing is second-rate about a benign Mediterranean climate and diverse terroir.

Indeed, the variety of soils here — sandy alluvial deposits on the plains, granite and slate on the hillsides — ensures that growers can cultivate many different grape varieties in the zone. In addition, the soils are mostly well-drained, albeit excessive fertility can be an issue in some sites, leading to undesirably high yields. The DO has more in common with the two adjacent French appellations of Banyuls and Côtes de Roussillon than any other Catalan vineyard.

The Tramuntana and Mediterranean Climate

Nevertheless, the unbeatable combination of seascape and rural countryside makes Empordà one of Catalunya’s loveliest wine regions. The vines are planted between sea level and approximately 260 metres and are often caressed by the gentle breezes of the Mediterranean. They are also submitted to the harsher whims of the Tramuntana, a powerful, dry northerly wind that sweeps down from the Pyrenees and helps keep the vineyards healthy.

Winemaking and regional classifications

The northernmost of Catalunya’s DOs offers an expanding range of high-quality labels, often blends, that bear more than a passing resemblance to the wines of neighboring Roussillon.

Often based on Garnacha, sometimes blended with Cariñena or other varieties, Empordà pink has become a firm favorite in the holiday resorts of the Costa Brava. Not all are pale, either; some producers favour a deeper cherry colour, with plenty of flavour to match.

Garnacha, Cariñena and Modern Blends

The best whites, meanwhile, include judicious blends of Viura and Garnacha Blanca, with potent aromas of garrigue, citrus, and fennel. Cariñena Blanca and Garnacha Roja are also attracting attention. International varieties like Syrah and Merlot have also found their way into the vineyards of Empordà; the success stories generally outweigh the failures. However, the region’s biggest trump card is dry reds based on old bush vine Garnacha and Cariñena. The wines boast some of the Montsant potency, allied to Navarran Grenache’s freshness. They are rarely expensive.

The lowdown

Connoisseurs and critics once had little interest in this part of northern Spain. It’s understandable: Empordà was traditionally associated with potent, sometimes rustic sweet wines made from Garnacha, including white and grey varieties.

Meanwhile, an age-old tradition saw some wines stored in glass demijohns and left to oxidize in the sun – occasionally for several years. The result was a Sherry/Madeira hybrid and about as popular. Although sweet winemaking is essential to the area’s history, demand today is far smaller than for dry wines. For Empordà to survive, a drastic change was needed.

Thankfully, the region’s stakeholders took action in the early 2000s. They have invested significant amounts in modern viticultural techniques and equipment to save the reputation of their beloved DO. Some may decry this shift to modern styles as a betrayal of the region’s roots. But facts are facts: commercial necessity and sentiment rarely go hand in hand. For better or worse, Empordà has moved with the times. But it has not quite abandoned its birthright: Garnatxa de l’Empordà, Moscatell and the old bush vines still have their champions.

Empordà Gastronomy

Dining out in Catalunya is the highlight of any visit. The region is blessed with abundant exceptional produce, while the coast provides every type of fresh fish imaginable. One of our favorite dishes is arròs de Pals a la cassola, a hearty rice dish cooked in a casserole, often with seafood or meat. Arroz Negre also cannot be missed – you’d never believe that rice cooked in cuttlefish ink could taste so good! The prawns of Palamós and the celebrated anchovies of L’Escala are other local reasons to linger over lunch. A local delicacy is Truita de Botifarra: sausage omelet, a Catalan take on the iconic tortilla.

Guide to Catalan Gastronomy: Read more