Côte Rôtie Wine Region Guide

Winemaking and regional classifications

What is a quintessential Côte Rôtie wine? Critics and writers would traditionally speak of finesse and elegance – a ‘Burgundian’ style of Syrah with wonderful perfume and fine tannins. In their youth, the wines often show notes of red berries and sweet spices, complemented by white pepper on the finish. These supremely elegant reds were traditionally made as gently and sensitively as possible: a mixture of whole bunches and crushed grapes in the vat, including a percentage of stems, is still favored by many producers. The must will then be fermented in (most typically) old oak vats and/or concrete, with temperatures rising above 95 Fahrenheit. This produces complex and deeply colored reds, although excessive heat can encourage burnt, jammy flavors. For that reason, many wineries prefer to vinify in stainless steel, using temperature control to enhance fruit flavor and freshness in Syrah.

The Impact of Marcel Guigal on Côte Rôtie Winemaking

Historically, maturing Côte Rôtie in old barrels resulted in a minimum pickup of oak-derived aromas. Then Marcel Guigal changed everything. Untroubled by the controversy surrounding his winemaking philosophy, Guigal started aging certain cuvées in a new French barrique, sometimes for over two years. These are wines for collectors who worship richness and power, with vanilla, cedarwood, tobacco, and chocolate aromas. But whether such wines authentically express Côte Rôtie’s terroir is debatable. But, as ever, personal preference is the ultimate judge.

The Role of Viognier in Côte Rôtie Blends

According to the appellation rules, growers can include up to 20% of the white grape Viognier in the final blend. Classically, producers used Viognier to add perfume and freshness to the wines, a practice that several major houses still maintain. Few producers use more than 5% to enliven their already brilliant wines. As a result, an excess of Viognier in the vat can spoil the style.

Geography and terroir

Côte Rôtie is the first major appellation you’ll encounter when traversing the majestic Northern Rhone. Situated in south-eastern France, Côte Rôtie’s vineyards are just south of Vienne, approximately 35 kilometers from Lyon. Although the area under vine is larger than 20 years ago, Côte Rôtie is still a small (just over 500 hectares under vine) viticultural zone. Only the villages of Ampuis, Saint-Cyr-sur-le-Rhône, and Tupin-et-Semons are entitled to market wines under the appellation banner. Strict terroir delineation is at the heart of the winegrowing culture in Côte Rôtie.

Climatic Challenges

Vineyards thrive in the region’s continental climate, with warm (but rarely excessively hot) summers and cold winters. It is noticeably cooler and more inclement than the southern Rhone, particularly in winter. For example, Côte Rôtie typically receives about 920mm of rainfall a year, while Avignon in the south is lucky if it surpasses the 550mm mark. However, excessive rainfall can be an issue during flowering and harvest time. Therefore, growers must constantly be vigilant to harvest a good crop in Côte Rôtie, particularly concerning fungal diseases like powdery mildew.

The Unique Terroir of Côte Rôtie’s Steep Slopes

Nevertheless, the finest sites in the appellation boast an exceptional terroir that is the envy of all across the Rhone Valley. These breathtakingly steep terraces, lined with free-draining metamorphic rock, reflect the sun’s heat into the vine canopy. This helps Syrah reach good phenolic maturity levels, even in cooler years. The southeast-facing aspect also ensures that the sun exposes most vines all day. A visit to Côte Rôtie during harvest time offers a spectacular sight, with the need for pulleys and even monorails to transport boxes of grapes from these incredibly steep slopes to the winery.

Côte Blonde and Côte Brune

Historically, growers have split Côte Rôtie into two distinct sub-zones within the appellation: Côte Blonde and Côte Brune. There is no shortage of locals who will wax lyrical about both terroirs’ differences and relative merits. However, all agree that a south-facing incline just south of Ampuis hosts the Côte Blonde, while the Côte Brune lies to the north of the town on a southwest-facing slope. Additionally, Côte Blonde is renowned for its granite soils, featuring varying levels of sand, slate, and limestone in the bedrock. In contrast, the terroir of Côte Brune is cooler and more robust – schist and heavier clay soils predominate, with iron deposits in certain areas.

Stylistic Distinctions and the Art of Blending

This polarity inevitably leads to stylistic differences once the wines are in bottle. During a blind tasting, critics usually identify which wines are from Côte Blonde; the terroir produces a very elegant expression of the Syrah grape, with aromatic intensity and wonderful freshness. Côte Brune is another matter entirely – powerfully structured; the wines are more firm and perhaps slightly unforgiving in their youth. One school of thought advocates blending grapes from these two subregions to enhance complexity, creating a superior wine.

The lowdown

To blend, or not to blend? That is the question. The Riojans understand this dilemma all too well: blending versus terroir expression has become something of a culture war issue in the region, arousing strong feelings and passionate debate. Like Champagne, there is a tradition of blending wines from different subregions and terroirs in Rioja, creating something greater than the sum of its parts. “There is a current obsession with single-vineyard wines that leads to an excess of offer – marketing is often the real reason why some single-vineyard wines exist,” observed José Urtasun, owner of Remirez de Ganuza. Producers in Côte Rôtie are having similar discussions: should the appellation maintain its longstanding tradition of mixing and matching terroirs, or is the Burgundian approach more relevant in the modern age?

Marcel Guigal’s Emphasis on Terroir and Single Vineyard Wines

Marcel Guigal represented one side of the argument. Indeed, Guigal was never one to equivocate about the importance of celebrating terroir. On the contrary, he believed that Côte Rôtie should closely emulate Burgundy by stressing the primacy of single vineyards and the synergy between variety and site. He has since been vindicated – Guigal’s single-vineyard wine collection is among the most expensive and sought-after being made today.

Traditional Blending Practices

However, there are still winegrowers who firmly reject this paradigm. In the 20th century, merchants commonly blended wines from Blonde and Brune to forge a ‘unified’ Côte Rôtie. Some still follow this path, arguing that the fetishization of single vineyards is undiluted narcissism. However, the cult of terroir expression has increasingly seduced many growers, leading them to reference the vineyard name on the label more frequently. Les Grandes Places and La Vialliere stand as just two climats held in great esteem in the zone. Unlike the Côte d’Or, there is no official stratified hierarchy of vineyards in the Rhone.

Single Vineyard Wines in Côte Rôtie

Unofficially, most would concede that the best single vineyards are located immediately above Ampuis. La Mouline, La Landonne, and La Turque have become legendary among collector circles, with prices to match. La Mouline, a Guigal brand since 1966, could be described as Côte Rôtie’s answer to La Tache. Complex and unbelievably refined, La Mouline will age and improve in bottle for many decades. Its sumptuous texture and an ethereal bouquet of violets, thyme, blackberry, and coffee have no equal in the Northern Rhone.

Blended vs. Single Vineyard Wines

These wines should be celebrated as representing Syrah at its most refined and complex. Yet it would be a mistake to sanctify these single-vineyard expressions at the expense of blended styles. Both are relevant to consumers today – what people want, above all, is freedom of choice. Plus ça change.

Côte Rôtie gastronomy

Most visitors to Côte Rôtie head north to the city of Lyon after dark, where memorable dining is guaranteed. Indeed, they don’t call Lyon, France’s gastronomic capital, for nothing – every conceivable type of restaurant is up for grabs, including classic brasseries, formal restaurants, and Michelin-starred extravaganzas. Yet many foodies prefer the informality of Lyon’s many Bouchons: small, friendly bistros that serve traditional dishes in a relaxed environment. Hearty entrées include boudin blanc (veal sausage) and gras double (tripe – an acquired taste!).

A Gastronomic Guide to the Cuisine of the Rhone Valley: Read more