Cortese di Gavi Wine Region Guide

Geography and terroir

An area of outstanding natural beauty produces this elegant, complex, and versatile dry white wine. Indeed, to visit the vineyards of Gavi is to understand that something truly special lurks beneath – a synergy of calcareous soils, grape variety, and climate. In every sense of the word, Cortese di Gavi is a terroir-driven wine.

Landscape and Vineyard Placement in Piedmont

The vignoble lies in the eastern half of the Piedmont region, close to the border with Liguria and its gorgeous coastline. And, unlike Barolo and Barbaresco, Gavi is some distance (over 90 kilometers) from the capital, Turin. The landscape, meanwhile, bears close comparison with Tuscany: the vineyards are planted on a series of rolling hills interspersed with meadows, fields, and dense woodland. In this timeless scene, vines carpet the valley floor and the higher slopes of the foothills, covering approximately 1600 hectares. This offers all the advantages of diurnal temperature variation and the concomitant levels of freshness in the wines.

Moreover, erosion over millions of years has littered the topsoils with gravel and flint, creating well-drained terroirs rich in minerals and other trace elements. Much like the gravel soils of Pauillac and Pessac-Leognan in Bordeaux, these rock fragments reflect heat back into the vine canopy, producing ripe and concentrated white wines. They are rich, pungent, and very moreish.

Cortese di Gavi encompasses over 12 communes in the province of Alessandria, and so there is a significant variance in terroir and mesoclimate between the different subzones. The Ligurian Sea also plays a vital role in moderating the intense summer heat of July and August – these maritime breezes can be a godsend in hotter vintages.

So, too, winemakers hold the limestone soils of Alessandria in great esteem: they offer an attractive balance between porosity and permeability. While generalizations can be tricky in such a diverse region, limestone often equals great fragrance and elegance in Cortese.

Unique Grape of Gavi and Terroir

It is also the only grape that can be used to produce Gavi. Thus, one generally attributes stylistic differences in the appellation to variances in soil and elevation rather than blend; indeed, the DOCG rules forbid a mixture of grapes. Yet no two bottles of Cortese di Gavi are completely alike.

If you visit the region, producers will happily organize blind tastings, comparing a series of wines from different plots in the zone. The experience can be very illuminating: heavier clay soils tend to yield a more robust and full-bodied expression of Cortese, while stony topsoil gives the wines a certain freshness and mineral zing. This is terroir in its purest form: when it comes alive in your glass!

Winemaking and regional classifications

The production of Cortese di Gavi has a great deal in common with Sauvignon Blanc – both Sancerre and the multitude of New World variants. After all, aromatic dry whites require a deft touch in the winery: protective handling and cool fermentations are used worldwide to produce fruit-forward wine styles that appeal to modern audiences. And Gavi is no exception. Visit any premium winery, and you will see stainless steel tanks equipped with the latest high-tech tools to monitor everything from pH to ripeness. This is the reality of winemaking in the 21st century. Not very romantic, is it?

Artistry of Winemakers

Yet, let’s not underestimate the role of the winemakers – they are the true artists behind the high-quality Cortese di Gavi. Their choices, philosophies, and inputs are what truly define the final wine. From the decision to use stainless steel or barrique in the maturation process to the method of crushing berries or pressing whole bunches and even the controversial issue of skin contact, every step is a testament to their skill and dedication. The protection of juice before vinification and the cold-settling and/or filtration of must are almost universal in Gavi, as are the reliable results of fermentation in stainless steel: fragrant dry whites that are piercing in fruit flavor.

No, the ultimate dividing line in the production of Gavi is oak. It is a line many growers refuse to cross: winemakers such as Roberto Broglia argue that oak aging would standardize and homogenize Cortese di Gavi, robbing the wine of its typicité. That argument has some validity, as Cortese (much like other aromatic varieties such as Albariño) has high levels of aromatic compounds responsible for its refreshing bouquet of citrus, stone fruit, and apple. An excess of new oak risks obliterating this fruity delicacy, which most stakeholders wish to avoid.

Aging Potential and Unique Characteristics

Contrary to popular belief, Gavi is a wine that can age beautifully. Thanks to its ample acidity, Cortese has the potential to evolve into a mature and complex wine under the right conditions. The primary fruit flavors, undeniably attractive in their youth, will transform into a range of aromas, including honey, caramel, and almonds with a mineral background. Many producers are experimenting with extended lees aging to enhance Cortese’s structure and mouthfeel. For instance, the single-vineyard Bruno Broglia remains on its fine lees for at least 18 months, which brings richness and texture to the wine without compromising its freshness and verve!

However, although winemakers enjoy a reasonable amount of freedom, the DOCG framework does stipulate a minimum alcohol level (10.5 %) and rules pertaining to vineyard sources. For example, if the fruit comes from a delimited geographical area close to the eponymous town, producers label certain white wines as ‘Gavi di Gavi.’ However, officials give the highest rank to single-vineyard Rivera styles, which age for one year before release.

The Consorzio also allows the production of sparkling wines in Gavi: spumante (tank method) and traditional-method fizz. This latter category of metodo classico Cortese is a (relatively) rare sight in the cellars of Alessandria. However, rising demand encourages more growers to invest in the necessary – and expensive – equipment. It can rival Franciacorta and TrentoDoc.

Gavi gastronomy

Alessandria is one of the most underrated foodie destinations in Piedmont. It is a lively small city with many excellent restaurants and trattorias. Local specialties include Pollo Alla Marengo (an unusual combination of chicken slowly braised in red wine, fried shrimp, and a fried egg on toast) and the delicious Baci di Dama hazelnut cookies. But most places will have a daily selection of specials and some obligatory pasta dishes. In our experience, the ravioli never fails to disappoint.