Costers del Segre Wine Region Guide

Winemaking and regional classifications

With many grape varieties and terroirs at their disposal, winegrowers in Costers del Segre like to market a broad spectrum of styles. This vinous diversity is positively encouraged by the DO – red, white, and rosado (rosé) wines are given an equal billing here. A growing volume of grapes are also used to produce sparkling wine in Costers del Segre, marketed under the auspices of the Cava appellation. High-altitude sites are in great demand in the zone, as are old Xarel-lo bush vines. The best examples can rival the tremendous efforts of Gramona and Recaredo in the more established vineyards of Penedes.

However, still, wines are far more important in terms of sales – both at home and abroad. Today some of the finest reds are being made in the Garrigues subregion, just over the Montsant range from Priorat – the terrain is not dissimilar. These Grenache-dominant cuvées can offer exceptional value: spicy, potent, and gloriously rich. Under the DO rules, they can be sold as Crianzas (two years aging before release) or Gran Reservas (five years maturation before being sold). The use of oak is commonplace in Costers de Segre, particularly for Grenache, Carignan, and Monastrell blends. They are increasingly joined by excellent Tempranillo reds, sometimes mixed with international grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. The Vall del Riucorb subzone has shown great promise for Bordeaux’s premier red grape; Artesa de Segre offers ripe flavors and silky textures.

Meanwhile, old vine Macebeo and Xarel-lo steal the show in Pallars Jussa. But, for many consumers, Raimat’s vast range of varietal wines is the safest bet. The surprises are admittedly few, but Raimat is hard to beat for quality and consistency.

Geography and terroir

Flanked by the western Pyrenees, Costers del Segre is Catalunya’s most isolated vineyard. To the west is the province of Aragon – the Segre River (from which the region takes its name) joins the Ebro just south of Lleida. And with so much to offer along the coast and in Barcelona, most travelers tend not to bother much with Catalunya’s interior. More fool them: this is a sparsely populated and beautiful region, largely tourist-free.

But there are vines in all directions in the Segre River valley, divided into seven widely scattered subzones. They are Artesa de Segre, Les Garrigues, Pallars Jussa, Raimat, Segria, Valls del Riucorb, and Urgell. As a result, soils and growing conditions can vary significantly between different zones, although the overall climate has been described as “harsh” by many residents. Of course, they refer to the semi-arid, continental climate of Costers del Segre: scorching summers and bitterly cold winters. Indeed, to the untrained eye, Costers del Segre is an unlikely winegrowing destination – a place where making fresh and balanced wines should be impossible.

Yet it isn’t. As Codorniu’s head winemaker Bruno Colomer so eloquently observed: “We have to keep in mind that Costers de Segre offers a very particular climate and soil. The region’s continental climate – depending on the distance to the sea – can be beneficial for optimal ripening; its ‘secret’ is the fluctuating temperatures between day and night which have a positive effect on grape maturation.” It is this diurnal variation that growers regard as their most important natural advantage; in specific high-altitude sites, the variance in temperature can sometimes be higher than 68°F. Without this elevation, acidity would be a scarce commodity in Costers del Segre. Nevertheless, irrigation is essential in certain parts of the DO.

The lowdown

Costers de Segre emerged in the 1990s as an ambitious producer in the Spanish wine world. All it lacked was a collection of recognized brands – something Raimat and, more recently, Miguel Torres have worked hard to remedy. This family company broke new ground with the release of Purgatori, a beguiling concoction of Syrah, Carignan, and Grenache. This powerful and concentrated red – expect oodles of garrigue, red fruit, and cassis on the palate – seems to have caught the imagination of buyers and the wine-drinking public. It has helped spread the renown of Catalunya’s most underrated viticultural resource.

However, this is changing. The region is buoyant with new wineries and experimentation with pre-phylloxera varieties; the accusation that Costers del Segre “is more New World than Catalan” is no longer valid. True, the DO is not a fertile source of icon wines and lavishly expensive labels – head to Priorat if you want to spend serious sums. But greatness is not just about scarcity or prestige. The vast majority of wines made in Costers del Segre are bottles to be enjoyed and not hidden away: well-made, delicious, and suited to a wide range of cuisines. It has become one of Catalunya’s most reliable sources of excellent vino. Let’s celebrate it.

Costers del Segre gastronomy

The interior of central Catalunya offers a wide variety of gastronomic pleasures, from lamb grazed on the Pyrenean foothills to freshwater fish of the Segre. Lleida serves up the most enticing options in this part of rural Catalunya; the city is the province’s snail-eating capital. Indeed, endless cargols are consumed during May’s annual Aplec del Cargol snail fest. But delicious tapas (of the non-snail variety) are also abundant for those who prefer not to gorge on gastropods.

Catalan Gastronomy Guide: Read more