Crozes-Hermitage Wine Region Guide

Winemaking and regional classifications

Unlike Hermitage and Côte Rôtie, Crozes-Hermitage does not have a longstanding culture of incorporating white varieties into red blends. True, a small percentage of white grapes can be used, yet most Crozes-Hermitage is built around at least 90-95% Syrah. Thus, because this noble red grape reigns unchallenged and is a variety that usually has intense color and flavor, the winemaking choices are arguably less important than the differences in terroir and vintage. As to the latter point, a succession of very warm years produced some coarse and alcoholic reds: forgettable, soapy, and blowzy wines. Fortunately, growers are becoming more adept at dealing with climate change in the Rhône; better canopy management, earlier harvests, and site selection are all possible solutions. Freshness, balance, and poise should be the key objectives in Crozes-Hermitage, rather than high alcohol and lush concentration.

Adapting Winemaking Techniques for Quality and Character

Therefore, many producers are marketing soft and fruity red wines for early drinking, made using the carbonic maceration technique that is very popular in Beaujolais. However, if a winemaker desires a more ‘serious red,’ a number of houses use the technique of crushing whole grape bunches with their stems through automatic pigeage (punch down). Ripe stems add structure to the wine, enhanced by maturation in wood. But before that can happen, the critical mass are now vinifying their wines in stainless steel: cool fermentations yield a very expressive and fresh style of red. Yet the traditionalists are strongly attached to oak vats and concrete, utilizing an extended maceration (over three weeks) to produce a deeply colored and structured expression of the Syrah grape.

Achieving Excellence and Misleading Experts

Tasted blind, the best labels can fool critics into believing that Hermitage is sitting in their glass. Top cuvées will balance approachability with structure, offering aromas of dark fruit, garrigue, pepper, and a touch of damp earth. The palate should be generous but not one-dimensional, supported by firm yet ripe tannins. Freshness and vibrant acidity are obligatory elements in all good Crozes-Hermitage.

Geography and terroir

Located in southeastern France, the spectacular northern Rhône region is home to several important red wine appellations, including Crozes-Hermitage. The vineyards stretch 10 miles north and south of the villages of Tain and Hermitage, with Crozes located to the north of the Hermitage appellation boundaries. The area under vine has expanded considerably in the 21st century, as exorbitant land prices encouraged investors to target less prestigious appellations. As of 2023, farmers have planted over 1800 hectares, encircled by picturesque cherry orchards that bestow a timeless and uniformly tranquil quality upon the landscape.

Diverse Terroir of Crozes-Hermitage

However, the terroir is far from homogeneous. Generally, the northern half of the zone, with its loess soils, produces the most fruit-forward, structured, and bright styles, while further south features flatter terrain and lower altitude. The alluvial plain south of the village can occasionally be too fertile for high-quality wine production, although certain growers are regrettably happy to overlook that fact. The trademark style of the southern half of Crozes-Hermitage is soft and approachable red wines with black fruit and moderate acidity. A small amount of white wine is also produced in the appellation, based on a marriage between Marsanne and Roussanne.

The lowdown

Why give Crozes-Hermitage the time of day? After all, the appellation lacks the cachet of Côte Rôtie and the global renown of Hermitage. These wines are not collectors’ items – they do not electrify auction houses and investor portfolios. From one perspective, we can just ignore this sizable vineyard altogether.

Quality and Accessibility

But please don’t write off Crozes-Hermitage – at least not yet. Consider first the reality of purchasing blue chip labels from the northern Rhône, wines that have disappeared into the luxury goods category. Limited volumes plus intense demand can equal a hefty price tag. Meanwhile, Crozes-Hermitage remains perfectly realistic, indeed good value compared with the international competition. Moreover, there is an immediacy to (most) Crozes-Hermitage that is very appealing: the critical mass of wines are supple, seductive, and ideal with food. A hat-trick of very dry vintages yielded a plethora of voluptuous, meaty reds, perhaps more New World in style than we might expect. The only concern is the age-ability of such wines due to their relatively high alcohol and glossy tannins.

The Appeal of Crozes-Hermitage: Versatile and Pleasurable

Of course, not every wine style has to be ‘serious,’ and not every occasion demands a First Growth. Infused with youthful, supple red fruit, Crozes-Hermitage has become a real crowd-pleaser. White Crozes-Hermitage can also be exceptional, albeit challenging to find, as relatively little is exported. Jean-Luc Colombo produces a very good example, typically based on equal parts Marsanne and Roussanne. Its decadent flavors of honeysuckle, white flowers, and tarte au citron are moreish beyond belief. The style is rarely expensive, yet it can rival the best Hermitage Blanc. An unbeatable price-to-quality ratio at the heart of the northern Rhône? You heard it here first.

Crozes-Hermitage gastronomy

You’ll dine like Louis XVI in Lyon, a city easily accessible from Crozes-Hermitage. This is the French gastronomic capital, after all, with a flurry of big-name chefs behind an eclectic restaurant line-up that embraces all genres, be it formal, Michelin-starred, or decidedly rustic. Yet many of the best meals are found in the bouchons – casual bistros serving classical dishes in a fun atmosphere. Savor pieds de couchon (pig’s trotters) and boudin blanc (veal sausage) while your waiter selects a killer bottle of Crozes-Hermitage.

A Gastronomy Guide to Lyon Cuisine: Read more