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Château Margaux | Bordeaux First Growth Winery Guide

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Winery Overview

It is often said that Château Margaux is a “feminine” wine. Yet, after tasting a remarkable series of vintages from 1966 to 2016, one begins to question the wisdom of this increasingly hackneyed epithet and its relevance to the Margaux region. Standing before the grandiose château, the words majestic and awe-inspiring more readily spring to mind. In legendary hot weather vintages such as 2009 and 2015, Margaux is anything but “feminine.” It is a powerful, singular expression of Margaux’s terroir, a wine that effortlessly combines structure with finesse and strength with subtlety. It is famous for its intoxicating perfume, but that is only half the story. This estate seduces with just one glance – the vineyards, wine, history, and stately architecture all add up to an irresistible package.

Like most famous châteaux in the Médoc, Château Margaux has witnessed a surfeit of history, covering obscure beginnings, a triumphant rise to glory, a fall from grace, pain, redemption, and the property’s spectacular rebirth. The château dates back to the 19th century, although historians believe there was once a medieval fortress on the site now occupied by the neo-classical mansion. We know that vineyards have been cultivated on this land for centuries – in the 17th century, the d’Auledes family was Margaux’s custodians. They helped to establish Margaux’s reputation as one of Bordeaux’s finest wines; by the middle of the 1700s, Margaux was the most sought-after wine in the Médoc. After that, a succession of owners acted as caretakers of the château, including the Fumel family, the Marqués de Colonilla, and the Ginestet family. They were the most important shareholders in Margaux by the late 1940s.

However, the property’s reputation began to slide in the early 1970s. Unfortunately, the Ginestet dynasty lacked the funds Margaux desperately needed – Bordeaux’s fortunes were in decline, and the First Growth was no exception. Faced with financial ruin, they had no choice but to put the château up for sale. Yet even an estate as famous as Margaux could not tempt a buyer. That was until 1977, when Greek-born entrepreneur André Mentzelopoulos fell in love at first sight. He happily parted with 72 million francs and immediately started the drastic restoration work that Margaux required. Sadly, André died in 1980, but his widow, Laure, and daughter, Corinne, were ready to step in and continue his excellent work.

Today, it seems incredible that this magnificent property, with its state-of-the-art winery and chai, could ever have been in the financial doldrums. Collectors and connoisseurs will pay almost any price to sample Margaux’s famous perfume and inimitable structure. And yet, in the 1980s, success was far from assured. Investment in new equipment was one thing, but the vineyards had been sorely neglected and needed an injection of dynamism and talent to rejuvenate the potential of this unique terroir. Fortunately, Corinne saw fit to hire the young and relatively inexperienced – at the time – Paul Pontallier. This proved to be an inspired choice. Pontallier had studied viticulture in Montpellier and soon assembled a fantastic team to work with him. Vineyards were replanted, soil health and nutrition were replenished, and yields were drastically lowered. The estate has undergone organic conversion and places a strong emphasis on biodiversity, soil health, and low-intervention vineyard management.

A gorgeous new visitor center and cellars were unveiled at a special dinner in 2015 – the project was an extension of the original cellar finished in 1815. It included a new research and development center, tasting room, and offices. An energy, dynamism, and opulence drift through the air at Château Margaux – a confidence unrivaled in the Médoc. There has also been some sadness, however, as Paul Pontallier died in 2016. His enthusiasm, passion, and talent are still missed, but his daughter Alexandra and Managing Director Philippe Bascaules continue Corinne’s singular vision.

Working together, they remain responsible for keeping both existing Margaux fans happy and attracting the new generation of oenophiles – no easy task. But then again, when guests are invited to sample legendary vintages like the 1983, it all becomes clear as to why Margaux boasts such a strong and loyal following. The vintage typifies everything unique and special about the Grand Vin: an exquisite perfume married to a palate of concentration and profundity. Balanced, poised, harmonious, and supremely elegant, the 1983 vintage remains a compelling reference point for Château Margaux’s signature combination of perfume, finesse, concentration, and longevity.

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Author

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James Lawrence

With a passion for food & drink that verges on the obsessive, wine writer James Lawrence has traveled the world in search of the perfect tipple. To date, nothing has surpassed the 1952 R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Rioja Reserva, tasted in the cobweb-filled cellars with owner María José. Meanwhile, James has written for a wide variety of publications, including The Telegraph, Decanter, Harpers Wine & Spirit, The Drinks Business, and Wine Business International. He lives in South Wales and returns to his former university city, Bilbao, as much as possible.

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