Balearic Islands Wine Regions Guide

Geography and terroir

Each of the four Balearic Islands – Mallorca, Ibiza, Formentera, and Menorca – continues to grow vines, although Mallorca is the only island with a sizable industry. Indeed, Ibiza produces only a small amount of wine, and Menorca has about 108 hectares of wine-grape vineyards. The vineyards of Mallorca, Ibiza, and Menorca are some of the most picturesque in Spain; grapes ripen in a benign Mediterranean climate, and the landscape is spectacular. Vineyards cling to steep terraces on the island’s hills, while olive, almond, and citrus trees dot the fertile landscape with promiscuous abandon.

The largest of the Balearic Islands has two important DOs (appellations) to its name: Binissalem-Mallorca DO and Pla I Llevant DO. The oldest is Binissalem, recognized as a Denominación de Origen in 1990.

Today, there are about 600 hectares under vine, located in the center of the island, northeast of the capital Palma de Mallorca. The terroir is generally conducive to quality grape growing: the Serra de Tramuntana to the north protects the vineyards from the intense winds and cold. The soils are predominantly poor in nutrients but rich in limestone and clay. The stony, calcareous soils provide good drainage, while deeper soil horizons help the vines withstand the dry Mediterranean summer. Irrigation is sometimes employed as excess heat can be an issue, leading to hydric stress and poor ripening. Growers must also contend with violent fall downpours and sometimes hailstorms. However, despite these challenges, Binissalem remains the main source of Mallorca’s best wines.

Mallorca’s other key vine-growing region – Pla I Llevant – is located on the island’s southeastern part and enjoys a similar maritime Mediterranean climate as Binissalem further west. Yet the vineyards in the eastern part of Mallorca tend to be at lower altitudes, averaging just 100m above sea level, challenging winemakers who wish to keep their wines fresh and aromatic. Today, more than 543 hectares of vineyard are registered with the DO. The calcareous-clay soils generally offer good permeability and are well suited to viticulture. There is also a smattering of vines on the west coast of Ibiza and small-scale viticulture in Formentera and Menorca. Once again, the Mediterranean climate ensures that full ripeness is not difficult to achieve, although controlling alcohol levels – and maintaining freshness – is a different matter.

The lowdown

In the 20th century, producers in Mallorca had very humble expectations of their wines. Viticulture was a small-scale, family business that supplied the island with drinkable – and occasionally rustic – white and red blends. In the peak season of July and August, tourists quaffed bottle after bottle of Viura in the midday sun. Yet few seriously considered making a play for the mainland – or even lucrative international markets. Mallorca seemed destined to reside in obscurity forever. A modest enterprise that shied away from becoming too ambitious for its own good.

However, attitudes are very different today. Buoyed by a rash of investments in new vineyards and modern bodegas, the outside world has developed a real interest in the island’s future. Hans Peter Schwarzkopf is one such wealthy entrepreneur responsible for founding the Can Axartell winery in Pollensa. Today nearly 60 hectares of vineyards are managed across the estate and its inland vineyards yield delicious Petit Verdot, Syrah, Pinot Noir, and Merlot wines; pungent and spicy, they are now exported to several European markets and the Spanish mainland. In addition, Peter Eisenmann (another German investor) has revitalized the Es Fangar winery, raising the quality bar to unprecedented heights. Meanwhile, the owners of Son Mayol benefited greatly from the expertise of the late Patrick Léon, formerly of Château Mouton Rothschild.

The net result has been an explosion in quality and rising global renown, with top labels now seen in restaurants across Northern Europe and the US. Judiciously planting a mixture of international and indigenous grapes, Mallorca’s producers are wisely catering to a broad audience. There has also been some investment in the vineyards of Menorca and Ibiza, although Mallorca remains the flag-bearer in this regard. But, more importantly, the next generation of winemakers, returning from trips abroad, are bringing a new sense of the importance of terroir. Today, they are utilizing their best sites to produce wines of real class and authenticity. A once glacial momentum has gone into revolutionary overdrive – and the best, we suspect, is yet to come.

Balearic Island gastronomy

Food is inevitably fresh, seasonal, and delicious in the Balearic Islands. Culinary traditions vary from island to island, although Catalunya’s influence is felt throughout; the combinations of sweet and savory flavors are a direct cultural hangover from the days of Catalan rule. Pork is the signature meat of Mallorca, while fresh seafood can be enjoyed in every town and village across the four islands. Menorca’s capital, Mao, lays claim to the invention of mayonnaise, which is often served with succulent fish and shellfish.