Montsant Wine Region Guide

Geography and terroir

Montsant is located in one of southern Catalunya’s most scenic regions. The vineyards surround its more famous cousin, Priorat, flanked by that appellation’s celebrated slate hills. And, like Priorat, there is plenty of heat and sunshine in this part of Spain. Climatically, the area enjoys a relatively benign Mediterranean climate with continental influences. As a result, the summer growing season tends to be dry at harvest time, with a risk of rainfall. Frost damage is also quite rare, another contributing factor to the generally healthy yields enjoyed by growers in the region.

Benefits of High-Elevation

Yet the intense summer heat presents challenges: excessive alcohol can be an issue in the lower-elevation sites. Fortunately, the local topography is very diverse, and vineyards grow along the mountainsides and on the slopes among olive trees and spectacular forests. Some climats (vineyard sites) rise to 700 meters above sea level, benefiting from diurnal temperature variation.

This is a winegrower’s best friend: a significant temperature difference between day and night. As a result, the vine’s metabolism slows down in the evening, preserving acidity and freshness in the wines. This is also an important quality factor in neighboring Priorat.

However, despite Montsant’s proximity to its smaller rival, the terroir is quite different, reflected in the wine style. Montsant’s vineyards are planted on a diverse mosaic of granite, sandy, clay, limestone, and slate soils. In contrast, Priorat is particularly famous for its porous, slate-like soils – llicorella in Catalan – naturally infertile, giving low yields and extremely concentrated wines. Therefore, judicious canopy management is crucial in Montsant if the winemaker desires quality. Many agree that Falset is the greatest wine village in Montsant – the gateway to Priorat.

Winemaking and regional classifications

Comparisons between Priorat and Montsant are unavoidable – and inevitable. Still, many of the latter region’s bodegas are run by supremely talented winemakers and technical directors. Glistening with shiny new equipment, these wineries adopt a sophisticated approach to vinifying and aging their wines. Only the finest fruit is fermented in various vessels, including concrete eggs, stainless steel, and oak. Maturation in wood is a crucial part of the winemaking process in Montsant, particularly for Garnacha/Syrah blends, often enriched with a dash of Carignan.

Differences in Terroir and Style Compared to Priorat

But there is no getting away from the divergence in terroir; although llicorella is also found in Montsant, its vineyards encompass a far broader mosaic of soil types. Thus, the red wines of the DO can be (and often are) excellent, although their style varies considerably according to grape variety, vineyard site, and winemaking approach. Nonetheless, they are delicious and lovely to drink in their own right.

Like Priorat, the reds tend to be blends based on Garnacha and Mazuelo (Carignan), sometimes supplemented by Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Tempranillo, or Ull de Llebre in Catalan. These wines are typically medium-bodied, with a supple black fruit character and softer tannins than those of Priorat. You can usually enjoy many labels upon release, although the finest old-vine reds can possess the structure and concentration required for extended aging. However, they are considerably better value! Also, interestingly, this region produces some of Spain’s best Kosher Wines.

There is also a small amount of white production in Montsant, but it is the reds for which the region is making a formidable name. Whites are Chardonnay, Garnacha Blanca, Macabeo, Moscatel, Pansal, and Parellada blends. Producers in the region also make a few rosés, dessert, and rancio fortified wines using the sherry solera system, although their numbers are dwindling.

The lowdown

In the 20th century, Montsant was tarred with the “poor man’s Priorat” brush—or worse. This was more than just good old-fashioned prejudice; rustic equipment allied to lazy viticulture greatly damaged the region’s reputation, forestalling its entry into the premium wine market.

However, the involvement of Priorat legends René Barbier and Christopher Cannan was a welcome development, as they brought their invaluable expertise to the wineries of this picturesque region. This and the top bodegas’ ever-rising standards mean that the wines of Montsant are finally making their mark with the world’s wine connoisseurs.

Montsant’s Modern Wine Revival

Yet when assessing the wines of Montsant, it is essential to remember that this is a relatively young DO, despite the region’s long history of viticulture. Of course, what has been achieved quickly is remarkable, and the region now offers top-quality reds to rival the more expensive competition from other parts of Spain. Nevertheless, the critical mass are well-made, fruity, and approachable reds that seldom break the bank. If you seek dramatic heft at an affordable price, you will not find a better place to start looking in Spain than in the vineyards of Montsant.

But we know that Montsant is capable of more. Encouragingly, its generous volume of old Garnacha bush vines now has some staunch advocates behind them, producing complex and elegant expressions of this underrated grape. Celler de Capçanes leads the way, closely followed by the Espectacle project associated with Barbier and Cannan. This is a world-class Garnacha that can slay lesser Priorat in blind tastings. We need more of it.

Montsant gastronomy

Catalunya is packed with good places to eat. Visitors to Montsant should head over to Tarragona for a surfeit of cervezerias (beer bars), tabernas, marisquerias (seafood restaurants), and comedores (sit-down restaurants). Inside you’ll encounter a staggering variety of delicious tapas, raciones, and every type of fresh shellfish and seafood imaginable. Almost a religion in parts of Catalunya, snails are often stewed with rabbit and chili. It’s delicious, believe it or not!

Guide to Catalan Gastronomy: Read more