Chubut Wine Region Guide

Geography and terroir

Although viticulture is a new endeavor in Chubut, early offerings have been mightily impressive. The wines combine razor-sharp acidity with moderate alcohol – South America’s answer to the Rhine Valley. Such are the benefits of growing grapes in a fantastically cool climate, where spring frost presents a far greater risk to vines than heat or drought.

Located to the south of Rio Negro, the vineyards of Chubut are dispersed across the region, with key differences in soil, mesoclimate, and altitude. However, many parcels are situated close to the Chilean Andes – Viñas del Nant y Fall, which is less than 20 kilometers from the border. As a result, it is not uncommon to find Chilean tour groups in Welsh Patagonia exploring this fascinating region’s nascent vineyards and culture. Today, approximately 92 hectares are under vine, often adjacent to water sources: rivers and lakes supply vital moisture delivered via drip irrigation systems at the best estates.

Adoption of Regenerative Agriculture

Indeed, Chubut’s average rainfall is under 200mm, although there are subregions where dry farming is possible. The province’s farming industry has also become a major proponent of regenerative agriculture —this holistic approach to land management eschews synthetic inputs while encouraging biodiversity to flourish. It is a topic of considerable interest in Patagonia today.

Yet the growing season in Chubut can be tumultuous: winter temperatures may plummet to below 28°F in July and August, exacerbating the risk of frost attacks. In the coolest spots, around the town of Trevelin, frost can rear its head up to twenty times a season, necessitating a great investment in preventative measures.

Meanwhile, the famous Patagonian winds can exceed 110 kph in extreme cases, potentially leading to coulure (a lack of fruit set). There are even reports of Patagonian Maras (a local species of hare) devouring grapes before the harvest; vineyard pests are also a major problem in Mendoza viticulture. And, with producers increasingly refusing to use synthetic pesticides, this will likely worsen.

Unique Climatic Advantages of High-Altitude

Nevertheless, there are many advantages to growing vines in Chubut. At higher elevations (vine altitude ranges from 20 to 670 meters), the average temperature hovers below 58°F, encouraging a slow and even pace of ripening. Cool-climate varietals will thrive in these conditions, yielding very aromatic and fresh wines with moderate ABVs. This is particularly true of the Sarmiento, El Hoyo, and Trevelin subzones and of the climats (vineyard sites) situated close to the Andes.

These Andean terroirs can receive up to 800mm of yearly rainfall, cultivated on acidic soils derived from volcanic ash. In the vineyards of Paso del Sapo, however, a warmer mesoclimate and alluvial soils yield a more full-bodied style of wine: oak-aged Chardonnay is a growing specialty of the subregion. But, many European varieties can thrive in Patagonia’s wilderness, not least Malbec and Pinot Noir.

Winemaking and regional classifications

In a fast-changing world of wine, no region has evolved as rapidly as Chubut. Developed feverishly in fewer than 15 years, it has seen the emergence of some astounding cool-climate varietals, particularly raspberry-scented Pinot Noir and supremely elegant Chardonnay. The area’s vastness offers a broad spectrum of soils, altitudes, and situations, allowing the cultivation of Bordeaux varieties, aromatic white grapes, and Argentina’s signature red variety, Malbec.

What unifies this eclectic family of styles, however, is bracing freshness: local Malbec, for example, has little in common with the voluptuous reds of Mendoza and Salta. In truth, nowhere can match Chubut-grown varietals for acidity and pungency. This is a world apart from the warm climate regions that define central and northwestern Argentina.

Pinot Noir Dominance

In the vineyard, Pinot Noir and, to a lesser extent, Merlot dominate, while Malbec accounts for just 3 hectares of regional plantings. Over the past ten years, an elite group of award-winning labels has begun to garner international attention; Wine Enthusiast magazine nominated Bodega Otronia for a ‘New World Winery of the Year’ award. It has achieved a cult following in restaurant circles, where New World interpretations of classic Burgundy styles are in great demand.

Some consider Bodega Otronia’s Pinot Noir one of Argentina’s greatest wines. Produced from high-quality fruit in the winery’s Paico and Sierra Silva vineyards, the berries are hand-harvested in the fall. Then, the grapes are vinified in French oak vats using a mixture of whole clusters and crushed berries. Using some whole bunches can add complexity and structure to the wine if the stems are ripe.

In open-top vats, pigeage (punch down) is used to extract color and flavor from the must, literally pushing down the ‘cap of marc’ into the fermenting juice. A post-fermentation maceration will then extract tannin from the berry skins before malolactic fermentation occurs.

Matured to Perfection

The next stage is arguably the most crucial when grappling with Pinot Noir. Otronia’s winemaker, Juan Pablo Murgia, prefers to mature his wines in untoasted foudres for 22 months – foudres are very large oak barrels. This softens the texture without extracting intense oak flavors; many Burgundians argue that new wood is unnecessary and detrimental to Pinot Noir, robbing the wine of its typicité. In this case, it’s the right decision: the delicate perfume and very floral character would surely be annihilated in the face of new barrique.

Meanwhile, the Chardonnay is pressed without destemming, releasing pure must into the tank. These exceptional raw materials are vinified in French oak vats, avoiding the influence of new oak. A maturation period of 22 months in neutral barrels yields a very precise and energetic interpretation of this malleable grape, with aromas of stone fruit, white flowers, and acacia leaping out of the glass. It is a white of great tension and freshness, with enough natural acidity to allow considerable maturation in bottle.

These exemplary wines, produced in modest volumes and marketed to exclusive clients, have achieved a high average price in a very short time. This is remarkable for such a young region: relatively few premium Chardonnay and Pinot Noir labels sell for less than $100, according to Wine Searcher’s database. The insatiable demand for alternatives to red/white Burgundy is partially responsible for this price buoyancy, in addition to the very high standard of winemaking and viticulture practiced in Chubut. Bulk production and mediocrity have no place here.

Chubut’s other specialty? Traditional sparkling wine—a natural endeavor for local growers to pursue. Patagonia is a halcyon destination for sparkling winemakers; they require low-alcohol base wines with high levels of natural acidity. Chubut easily provides this and more, yielding delicious facsimiles of Champagne when Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are blended and then matured in the modern Casa Yague, Mas Alla, and Otronia cellars. The results in bottle are not underpriced but confirm the mantra that cool-climate fizz is a cut above.

All in all, progress has occurred at a lightning pace since the 20th century, when few believed that Chubut could support wine growing on a commercial scale. A growing firmament of buyers and sommeliers—at home and abroad—is taking full advantage of these crystalline flavors. The revolution is in full force.

Chubut gastronomy

Welsh Patagonia is famous for its afternoon tea: piping hot and served with a selection of sweet delicacies, including custard tarts, fruitcake, and bara brith. Many of the area’s most popular towns, particularly Gaiman and Dolavon, are full of quaint tea shops where you can experience this delightful institution. However, those with a more savory tooth will find much to enjoy in Chubut’s informal taverns – excellent homemade pasta dishes and well-seasoned meat (lamb is the regional specialty) abound in Patagonia.