Pomerol Wine Region Guide

Geography and terroir

Pomerol has become one of the world’s most iconic wine regions. Just over 800 hectares are planted here, on a flat gravel bank bordered by St-Emilion to the east and Libourne to the west. Awarded AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) status in 1936, Pomerol boasts exceptional soils for producing fine red wines.

Meanwhile, the climate displays maritime and continental influences, with most rainfall occurring in the spring. However, Pomerol can usually depend upon a warm and dry summer season, lasting from June to September. Merlot and Cabernet Franc yield incredible perfume, structure, and finesse wines in such conditions.

The Unassuming Charm of Pomerol

Yet visitors to the region are often disappointed; Pomerol is such a curious corner of the world that it invokes Gertrude Stein’s famous observation: “There is no there-there.” It lacks a beating heart – there is no actual village center, and almost identical small roads crisscross the plateau, apparently at random. The landscape is evenly dotted with modest houses – each rejoicing in the name of Chateau, although they are a world apart from the stately mansions of the Medoc. This is Pomerol – there is nothing more to see.

A Geologic Tapestry

The terroir, on the other hand, is extraordinary indeed. It is also very varied, with a good deal of sand and gravel and the legendary iron-rich clay of the plateau, known as the crasse de fer. Indeed, geologically, it is another big gravel bank, slightly rising and falling but remarkably flat overall. Towards the Libourne, the soil tends to be sandy, while to the east and north, where it meets St-Emilion, it is often enriched with clay. The finest estates, such as Petrus, La Conseillante, L’Evangile, and Lafleur-Petrus, are tightly grouped together on the clay plateau and make the densest, fleshiest, and most opulent wines.

From Opulence to Elegance

In contrast, Chateau de Salles produces a totally different but just as worthy style of Pomerol – lighter and fragrant, but without the density of estates like Bon Pasteur. Many view Pomerol as a homogeneous region, making homogeneous wine. Nothing could be further from the truth: Le Pin’s hedonistic opulence has little in common with the more subtle charms of Chateau Ferrand. But, you won’t find a drop of white wine here; that was outlawed in 1936 when the appellation was created.

Winemaking and regional classifications

Over 120 producers (no cooperatives) make wine here. Some oenophiles prefer these fruit-forward, rich, and velvety reds to the more austere expressions of the Left Bank. Indeed, what unifies Pomerol’s wines is their approachability—these opulent reds can be enjoyed at a relatively young age.

The chief grape here is not the tough-skinned Cabernet Sauvignon, whose wine has to live through a tannic and often austere youth; it is Cabernet’s traditional blending partner, Merlot. However, although Pomerol is now widely associated with Merlot, it only assumed a role of dominance in the mid-20th century. Records suggest that in the 1500s, Cabernet Franc, under the ancient name Vidure, was far more widespread than any other red grape in Pomerol; Merlot did not arrive until the 18th century.

The Frost of 1956 and the Rise of Merlot

Then, a devastating spring frost in 1956 encouraged growers to replace their Cabernet Franc vines with Merlot, partly because the latter offers a higher yield and ripens sooner. Occasionally, you will come across a Pomerol wine that is 100% Merlot: Petrus and Le Pin are the two most famous (and costly) examples.

But many more producers reject the paradigm of mono-varietal wines. Their reasons, of course, vary considerably. However, many will argue that Cabernet Franc adds much-needed finesse and aromatics to the blend and that Merlot can be too one-dimensional without a dose of Cabernet Franc. That is certainly open to debate, but it is a plain fact that Merlot delivers larger berries than Cabernet Franc, with thinner skins.

The resulting wine is often silky and seductive, yet it can lack ‘bite.’ Therefore, Cabernet Franc’s structure, acidity, and perfume are highly prized commodities in Pomerol, albeit not every winemaker uses the grape.

Winemaking Techniques

Meanwhile, approaches to winemaking in the appellation do not vary significantly: maturation in wood is considered de rigueur, and a percentage of it will typically be new. Leading chateaux use only hand-harvested grapes, fermented using traditional pump-overs in a mixture of stainless steel and concrete vats.

Yet attitudes to harvest dates are a subject of significant disagreement in Pomerol. One approach, popular at the Moueix chateaux, is to pick relatively early to emphasize freshness and balance in the wines; other properties, such as Bon Pasteur, favor a late harvest in October to produce fleshly and opulent reds with glossy tannins. It is said that great wines like Latour should not be opened until they’re at least 15 years old.

Not so in Pomerol; some of the best wines, made in the image of Parker and Michel Rolland, have revealed all their perfume and achieved dazzling finesse within a dozen years, and many are already attractive at five years old. For impatient oenophiles, that is worth its weight in gold.

The lowdown

Pomerol doesn’t play by Bordeaux’s rules or any rules except its own. But this isn’t simply a case of churlish rebellion: negociants were content to marginalize the region in the 19th century, while Left Bank châteaux received favorable terms. As a result, Pomerol had to forge its own path and make its own rules.

Rejecting Hierarchical Classification

Yet, compared to the Medoc and St-Emilion, there is a distinct lack of hierarchical order in the vineyards of Pomerol. Indeed, while the 1855 classification is regarded as a seminal achievement in the Left Bank, Pomerol has always rejected the notion of a codified ranking. Some winemakers have argued that historical opposition was driven by smaller, lazier growers in the appellation, unwilling to have the inferiority of their wines signposted in a bureaucratic ‘flogging.’

But regardless of the ultimate motivation, a lack of classification has not tarnished Pomerol’s reputation. Quite the opposite: Petrus and Le Pin sell for thousands of dollars a bottle. Thus, leading châteaux never worry about marketing their wines. They will sell out in every vintage at almost any price.

Nevertheless, Pomerol, unlike St-Emilion, has never embraced the idea of luxury tourism. There are exceptions, of course, and connoisseurs are welcomed to the finest properties to learn and to taste. But visitors should not expect to encounter a Gallic version of Stellenbosch or Mendoza; their absence makes hotels, restaurants, and tasting rooms noticeable.

Absence of Collective Marketing

There is also a culture of rampant individualism in this part of Bordeaux. Indeed, there is little to unite Pomerol’s diverse estates, so they tend to work alone. Collegiate marketing, a common feature of New World regions, is almost entirely absent here.

However, there is an advantage to this lack of marketing homogeneity: a broad range of château pricing. Consumers are always surprised when we suggest that Pomerol can and does offer relative value; the critical mass eschews Le Pin and Petrus’s precedents. Many excellent reds, handcrafted according to garagiste principles, are being made here today. And the majority of them aren’t sold via mailing lists to oligarchs and their wives. That is where Pomerol and Napa Valley differ.

Pomerol gastronomy

Although Pomerol is renowned for its superlative red wines, it is something of a gastronomic wasteland. Our best advice, therefore, is to head into nearby St-Emilion and explore this delightful town’s numerous high-quality restaurants, encompassing Michelin art on a plate, hearty bistro fayre, and everything in between. Lampreys braised in red wine is a local highlight, in addition to confit de canard avec frites. Indeed, Pomerol and duck confit are one of life’s great culinary pairings.

Bordeaux Gastronomy Guide: Read more