Château La Coste Winery Guide

Winery Overview

A restored wine estate, a monument to contemporary architecture, a luxury tourist destination – what exactly is Château La Coste? The answer depends on your personal desires; this is a unique part of Provence, where tourism, art, architecture, and winemaking combine to form a harmonious, holistic marriage. Indeed, it is impossible to single out one aspect of this beautiful property as its signature hallmark. Château La Coste is one of those rare luxury experiences that cater to every taste, whether you’re a passionate gastronome, oenophile, or art fanatic.

Residents of this corner of Provence with long memories will remember Château La Coste’s existence before its sale in 2002. The estate was so very different before Irish business tycoon Paddy McKillen decided to invest in Provencal winemaking that year. Wine has been made in Provence for many centuries; the original buildings were constructed at the behest of the Bishop of Aix in 1682. The original bastide was used to defend the territory, and even today, visitors can see remnants of La Coste’s complex and fascinating history. Ancient pathways, a chapel, stone walls, and a gorgeous 17th-century rose-pink villa contrast delightfully with the modern additions. As with most French wine estates, La Coste changed hands several times over the centuries, although the previous owner held onto his estate for over 68 years. However, financial and other pressures conspired to form the perfect storm, and in 2002, the property was sold to entrepreneur Paddy Mckillen. The name will be instantly familiar to hoteliers worldwide; McKillen part-owns several luxury properties, including The Berkeley Hotel in London.

Since acquiring the estate in 2002, Paddy McKillen has transformed Château La Coste into one of Provence’s leading wine, art, and architecture destinations. He has invested heavily in the project, which is something of an understatement; The Jean Nouvel-designed wine cellar opened for the 2008 harvest, while Tadao Ando’s Art Center opened in 2011. The visitor center opened its doors to the public in 2011, although McKillen has since opened several restaurants and a luxury boutique hotel adjacent to the property. La Coste is not alone in offering luxury rural accommodation in Provence. Still, it has earned a justifiable reputation for its impeccably high standards, not least in the Francis Mallman collaboration restaurant. The Argentine chef and author was only too keen to get involved with a project as prestigious as La Coste. To sample Mallman’s exquisite cuisine in a quiet corner of Le-Puy-Sainte-Réparade – paired with local wines, of course – is an experience every foodie must enjoy once in their lifetime.

Art and architecture lovers are also constantly rewarded and astounded by what La Coste offers. The awe begins with a walk through the estate’s beautiful heartland, where a diverse collection of modern artworks and architectural masterpieces is visible in every direction. Most impressive is the Tadao Ando Center, conceived by the legendary architect and now serving as a reception area, bookshop, and cafe. Visitors also love the gigantic Crouching Spider, designed by Louise Bourgeois, as a centerpiece to the generously proportioned infinity pool. Frank O. Gehry’s Pavilion de Musique and Sean Scully’s Wall of Light Cubed are the icing on the cake – we’d need many more words to do all these masterpieces justice.

Yet, with all the hype and excitement over the art and architecture, celebrity chefs, and luxury accommodation, it is sometimes easy to forget that Château la Coste is, first and foremost, a wine producer. McKillen’s ambition was to make terroir-driven, vineyard-expressive wines using only sustainable methods, a goal he has achieved. The estate’s wines received organic certification in 2009; the whole vineyard has been organic since 2013 and fully Demeter-certified biodynamic since the 2022 harvest.

However, the real masterstroke was appointing Matthieu Cosse in 2006, a very talented winemaker who cut his teeth in Cahors. Using the latest viticultural analysis, Cosse shook up vineyard management and winemaking at La Coste, planting new varieties based on their suitability for the terroir rather than simply on what was commercially lucrative. The results have been dramatic – Château La Coste now releases some of the most distinctive organic and biodynamic wines in the Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence area, with a signature freshness and lightness of touch that is very attractive. Judiciously oaked, intelligently made, and approachable from the outset, these are the real stars of La Coste. The gastronomy, art, and restaurants are a lovely bonus, but the wines deserve more attention than the estate’s art, architecture, and restaurants sometimes allow.

Château La Coste works beautifully as part of a private Provence wine itinerary from Aix-en-Provence, particularly when combined with another leading winery, a refined Provençal lunch, or an art-focused afternoon. Past Cellar Tours clients have enjoyed private tastings of the estate’s organic and biodynamic wines, as well as its rare blend of contemporary architecture, outdoor sculpture, and relaxed Provençal elegance. Highlights may include the Jean Nouvel-designed wine cellar, the Tadao Ando Art Center, major works by international artists and architects, and a choice of dining venues.

Further Reading

Author

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James Lawrence

With a passion for food & drink that verges on the obsessive, wine writer James Lawrence has traveled the world in search of the perfect tipple. To date, nothing has surpassed the 1952 R. López de Heredia Vina Tondonia Rioja Reserva, tasted in the cobweb-filled cellars with owner María José. Meanwhile, James has been writing for a wide variety of publications for over 12 years, including Telegraph, Decanter, Harpers, The Drinks Business, and Wine Business International. He lives in South Wales and returns to his former university city, Bilbao, as much as possible.

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