Sella & Mosca boasts one of the most extensive contiguous vineyards in Europe, extending for 520 hectares in the area of I Piani, located 10 km from Alghero, in the northwest of Sardinia. The size of the territory has remained the same since 1903, when an important and innovative hydraulic reclamation operation turned the ancient soils of I Piani’s natural alluvial basin into a thriving wine-growing area. This marked the beginning of the island’s most important wine production.
The winery was founded in 1899 in Alghero, on the island of Sardinia, by two ambitious men from Piedmont: Engineer Erminio Sella, the grandson of former Minister Quintino Sella, and Attorney Edgardo Mosca. Much of the island’s vineyards had been devastated by phylloxera, which arrived in Sardinia years later than the rest of Europe as the island was separated from the continent. Thanks to a unique project, Sella & Mosca played an important role in reconstructing the island vineyards.
The winery launched a nursery specialized in producing grafted cuttings, obtained by placing European vines on rootstocks from America, which are more resistant to diseases. The project continued until the early 1950s, after which the company devoted its efforts to wine production. New cultivation methods, which reserved particular attention to native varieties like Torbato, Vermentino, and Cannonau, and technological innovation led to the production of contemporary wines and sparked a new winemaking tradition in Sardinia.
Regarding sustainability, Sella & Mosca is also committed to saving energy by employing modern machines that reduce energy dispersion and water consumption for irrigation. There is also a dedicated laboratory for quality control and Research & Development. Meanwhile, the island has always had a typically Mediterranean climate with frequently sweltering summers and mild winters.
However, in recent years, there have been some very violent weather events and frosts (in 2017, 2019, and 2021) resulting from cold currents coming from the North Pole, which we can certainly link to global warming. For this reason, the company has implemented active defense systems against frost. Specifically, after extensive analyses, the use of a helicopter in the event of convection frosts has been made. The employment of the vehicle allows the upper layers of air to be displaced downward, thereby mitigating the temperature. This type of solution is among the simplest and most cost-effective available today.
Sardinia Wine Region Guide
Introduction
It takes a stony disposition not to be captivated by Sardinia. Even if you cannot surrender to the pristine beaches, hilltop villages, and benign climate, the incredible landscape will take your breath away. It’s an irresistible proposition: miles and miles of dramatic coastline, expansive bays, azure-blue water, lush vegetation, and rugged inland landscapes.
However, Sardinia’s charms are not merely skin-deep. Like all self-respecting Mediterranean islands, Sardinia is most definitely in the wine business. Its complex and fascinating cultural heritage has given rise to a uniquely Sardinian wine culture, distinct from that of mainland Italy. The grapes and soils, the winemaking practices and attitudes, and Sardinian viticulture are all worth exploring, offering an exciting point of difference to the increasingly homogenous and globalized winemaking scene.
Indeed, the island is rich in raw ingredients, and its emphasis on local varieties provides a welcome point of difference in a crowded marketplace. Yet, the island’s wines remain under-exported and under-appreciated.
However, with its wealth of ancient bush vines and unique grapes, Sardinia has the potential to become a far more internationally recognized wine region. This hope could be realized within our lifetime. Sardinia’s authentic, local flavors are poised to charm international wine buyers who increasingly seek these qualities. All Sardinia needs to do is reach out and extend its hand.
History
In the late 6th century BC, the forces of Carthage landed on Sardinia’s south coast, bringing merchants, administrators, and settlers to this fertile paradise. However, they were defeated by the Romans during the Punic Wars and ejected from the island. Under Roman rule, Sardinia became an important agricultural supplier, producing wine for wider Mediterranean markets.
Aragonese Influence on Sardinian Viticulture
After its conquest of Sardinia in 1324, the Crown of Aragon had a dramatic impact on Sardinian wine culture; the Aragonese transplanted many of their traditions and customs, including Spanish grape varieties.
Bovale Sardo and Bovale Grande are genetically distinct: Bovale Sardo is associated with Spain’s Graciano, while Bovale Grande is linked to Carignano. The origins of the Monica and Girò grapes remain uncertain. So, too, are the genetic legacies of the white grapes Nuragus and Nasco clouded in mystery. Over the centuries, this evolved into a vibrant and colorful mix of customs and culture, gifting Sardinia a unique and multicultural vine heritage.
Yet this seductive destination is not without its historical low points and unfortunate precedents. In the mid-20th century, a push emerged to encourage growers to plant red grape varieties specifically for selling to the mainland, mirroring the modern bulk wine industry. Winemakers fermented these reds to retain residual sugar, producing alcoholic, overcropped, and intensely strong wines.
Thankfully, modern-day Sardinians are more fixated on quality than quantity; during the 1980s, subsidies for planting vines became incentives to pull them out, and the island’s total vineyard area shrank by over half. The saturation of the cheap wine market and a consumer shift towards “less but better” wines have benefited Sardinia. Today, the curious oenophile will discover a mosaic of varieties unlike any other part of Italy.
Geography and terroir
Sardinia is a tourist paradise with its stunning coastline, creamy white beaches, and rolling hills. However, while most people obsess over the surf and sunshine, Sardinia’s wine regions are increasingly attracting jet-setting oenophiles.
And there is much to discover: Sardinia covers over 9,000 square miles, providing ample opportunity for site variation and climatic differences – particularly given its varied topography.
Settled long ago by the ancient Phoenicians, Sardinia lies south of Corsica and west of the Italian mainland, separated from Tuscany and Lazio by the Tyrrhenian Sea. However, winemakers have never shown much interest in key Italian grape varieties such as Trebbiano and Sangiovese. Instead, they celebrate their traditions and unique wine flavors with pride and gusto.
Indeed, Sardinia offers a rich palate of raw ingredients—a nice antidote to the humdrum Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot produced worldwide. It also has countless old bush vines that attract particular interest from sommeliers and collectors; these thrilling wines are slowly gaining traction among consumers seeking a point of difference. And yet, despite all this amazing potential, Sardinia generally records relatively low vineyard yields by Italian standards.
Much to our amazement, despite the favorable terroir and climate, only a relatively small percentage of the island’s acreage is planted to vines. Today, approximately 27,000 hectares of vines are grown on the island, with much of it concentrated on the flat Campidano plain in the south. Many of Sardinia’s most promising appellations, including Vermentino di Gallura and Alghero, are in the north.
Meanwhile, local growing conditions and soils run the whole gamut, from the rocky, arid northeast of Sardinia to the cooler terroirs of the Costa Smeralda. Winegrowers utilize an eclectic mix of granite, limestone, and clay soils, each contributing unique characteristics to the wines.
The island’s southwest features windswept, sandy vineyards, where bush vines dominate, and the yields are naturally very low. Excessive vigor is rarely a problem in such conditions, allowing the vines to focus their energy on producing high-quality grapes.
Climate Challenges and Adaptive Strategies
The most persistent climatic challenges are heat and drought. In recent years, exceptionally high temperatures and very low rainfall have become more frequent in July and August, anomalous even by the standards of Sardinia.
In difficult vintages, drought, excessive heat, hail, and irregular rainfall can substantially reduce yields. This sometimes puts enormous pressure on the vines, causing hydric stress and leaf burn. Maritime breezes provide some natural relief, blowing off the Mediterranean.
However, where permitted and available, irrigation, canopy management, soil management, and careful harvest timing can help producers respond. As elsewhere, producers want freshness and acidity in their wines and are adapting vineyard management and harvest decisions to avoid a lurch into cloying overripeness.
Planning a Sardinia Wine Tour
Sardinia’s wine regions are widely dispersed, and many wineries accept visitors by appointment only. Cellar Tours can arrange private winery visits, chauffeured transfers, expert guides, vineyard lunches, fine dining, and luxury accommodation. Tailor-made itineraries can either focus on Gallura, Alghero, Mamoiada, or Sulcis, or combine several regions with time on the coast.
Planning resources
Winemaking and regional classifications
Although the island lacks a long-established precedent for quality winemaking, there are esoteric grape varieties galore here, including the super-rare Girò, underrated Monica, and delectable Nuragus. Semidano is another local gem associated particularly with Mogoro in the southwest; its minerality and expressive bouquet recall Mount Etna and its saline Carricante dry whites.
Meanwhile, in the northwest, Sella & Mosca continues to work wonders with the native Torbato, another distinctive part of Sardinia’s viticultural heritage.
However, winemaking philosophies are fairly standardized in this part of the world despite the rich variety of grapes, appellations (17 DOCs), and flavors. White grapes are typically harvested, crushed, and fermented in stainless steel, with temperature control used to maintain freshness and poise in the wines.
Protective winemaking, first pioneered in the New World, is almost a religion in Sardinia; a small amount of skin-contact and orange whites are also made here, produced by the island’s more innovative winegrowers. Nevertheless, the market demands upfront fruit: this is achieved by protecting the juice from oxygen and vinifying in steel tanks at low temperatures, generally under 77°F.
Vermentino’s Excellence
Many of Sardinia’s greatest whites are made by closely following this ‘recipe.’ Vermentino di Sardegna DOC is the most important example. It is commercially successful and widely exported to mainland and northern Europe. In its purest form, Vermentino is quaffable material; light and refreshing, its lemony bouquet suits holidaymakers perfectly.
But don’t be fooled: Vermentino is no one-trick pony. Leading producers elevate Vermentino, a grape common across the Mediterranean, to new heights. Occasionally, this will involve a touch of barrique and/or skin contact, creating a richer and fuller white than entry-level Vermentino di Sardegna.
Yet the true quality differential in Sardinia lies in terroir, not winemaking. Sardinia’s most prestigious Vermentino denomination is Vermentino di Gallura DOCG, produced in the rocky, granite-dominated northeast. A unique combination of soil, heat, and marine winds can produce gloriously honeyed yet racy white wines. It remains Sardinia’s only DOCG. Drink it with friends, preferably with Sardinian seafood and a spectacular view.
Sardinia’s reds, though, are less internationally recognized. Grenache, known locally as Cannonau, is the island’s signature red grape, accounting for roughly one-fifth of its vineyard area.
In tandem with Spain, there is a growing movement to celebrate and preserve the oldest Grenache parcels – these bush vines yield tiny berries with immensely concentrated fruit. Some of the best examples are made in the hills surrounding Mamoiada.
In the DOC of Carignano del Sulcis, one finds another worthwhile curiosity. The terroir is located in the southwest of the island—a sea of bush vines covers the beautiful landscape. Legendary wine consultant Giacomo Tachis brought this long-ignored corner of Sardinia into the spotlight.
Tachis helped bring international attention to Sulcis through his work with Cantina Santadi, including the development of Terre Brune. It joins Rocca Rubia among the estate’s high-quality, age-worthy Carignano-based reds. These wines are velvety, intensely flavored, and structured examples, with Carignano usually playing a dominant role in the blends.
Icon Wines and Lesser-Known Appellations
North of Cagliari, the family-run Argiolas estate produces one of Sardinia’s best-known icon wines.
The estate’s top cuvée, Turriga, is a powerfully concentrated blend led by Cannonau, with Carignano, Bovale Sardo, and Malvasia Nera. It benefited from Tachis’s expertise. Today, Turriga is regarded as one of Sardinia’s leading fine-wine benchmarks.
Other appellations are also going from strength to strength. These include Malvasia di Bosa, Alghero, Cannonau di Sardegna, and Cagliari’s extensive DOC. Like Vermentino, Malvasia produces a delightfully varied wine in Sardinia’s terroir.
Sweet whites also remain part of the landscape despite the moribund state of the dessert wine market. The Vernaccia di Oristano appellation arguably produces some of Sardinia’s most esoteric wines: traditional oxidative wines matured in partly filled barrels, often beneath a veil of yeast, alongside fortified liquoroso styles. The finest Vernaccia di Oristano can develop for decades. Sardinia also maintains a small tradition of rich sweet wines made from Moscato and Malvasia.
Their limited export makes them a delightful secret for adventurous wine lovers who visit Sardinia.
Facts & Figures
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Key wine styles
- Aromatic dry whites, full-bodied red wines, a small volume of dessert wine
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Appellation structure
- One DOCG, 17 DOCs, and 15 IGT appellations
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Hectares under vine
27,000
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Average annual production
7.6 million cases (12 bottles per case) per annum
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Approximate number of producers
350 wineries
Exclusive Expert Insights
2 expertsPlease tell us more about your winery and vineyards?
Cantina Mesa was founded in Sardinia in 2004 as a result of the creative genius of Gavino Sanna, Italy’s most famous and award-winning advertising executive, who dreamt of creating something for his island that was extraordinary, unique, and easy to enjoy, involving one of Sardinia’s most precious treasures: wine.
The name Mesa – which in Sardinian, as in Spanish, means “table” – encapsulates in just four letters the essence of our winery: nutrition, conviviality, motherly love, simplicity and fragrances. Cantina Mesa stands out thanks to the fact that it cultivates two indigenous varieties: Vermentino di Sardegna and Carignano del Sulcis. These not only express the distinctive terroir of the Sulcis area, but also the brand’s signature style, composed of elegance and a luminous purity.
What are the unique characteristics of your terroir(s) in Sardinia.
Cantina Mesa is situated at Sant’Anna Arresi, on the slopes of a valley sheltered from the northwest winds and surrounded by the Mediterranean Sea. It overlooks the plain of “medaus” (little rural villages, typical of the Sulcis zone), as well as the inlet of the promontory of Porto Pino. Mesa’s vineyards cover more than 74 hectares, of which 66 are estate-owned. The vines are trained using the Cordon Spur, Guyot and Alberello systems, depending on the local circumstances, and every berry breathes an air of sunny, balm-like peacefulness. Vermentino is a semi-aromatic white grape variety that has adapted very well to the conditions in Sardinia, resisting in the long, hot, dry summers here.
Carignano, on the other hand, is traditionally grown using the Alberello (bush-trained) system, which allows for greater resistance to the lack of water and high temperatures. Most of Italy’s vineyards of Carignano (known elsewhere in the world as Carignan, Cariñena or Mazuelo) are in Sardinia, and are almost all located in the South-West of the island.
Especially along the coastal belt of the Lower Sulcis, this variety – often cultivated on ungrafted Alberello vines on sandy soils – has found its ideal habitat. Here, the particular combination of cultivar and terroir have made Carignano really unique; the D.O.C., instituted in 1977, is in fact strictly linked to this area. The Mediterranean and its marine breezes have a positive influence on the temperatures of this area, mitigating the heat of summer, and give Carignano a freshness and vibrancy that make it extremely easy to drink.
Has the island been impacted by climate change and how are you responding?
In the last few years, we have witnessed a gradual reduction in annual rainfall and a transformation in the winters, which have become increasingly mild. These circumstances have resulted in the vegetative phases of the vines – from budbreak right through to ripening – taking place earlier, which has risked having a negative impact on the fruit’s aromas and acidity.
To guarantee high-quality production, we have therefore brought forward the harvest and tailored our agronomic practices so as to preserve as far as possible the water resources that are stored in the soil. We also maintain a level of leaf cover that succeeds in lowering the temperature of the grapes and limiting evapotranspiration.
Moreover, the loss of water via the leaves is reduced using natural products based on seaweed. The choices we make for our new plantings, too, are focused on finding rootstocks and vine varieties that are resistant to drought conditions. As examples, we can mention Carignano and Cannonau – and partially Vermentino -, varieties that are defined as “anisohydric”, because genetically they contain a mechanism that allows them to preserve the water stored within the plant by closing the leaf stomata during periods of greater heat. It is indeed this natural mechanism that led to the spread of the above-named varieties in the hottest and driest areas of the Mediterranean.
Key Grape Varietals
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White grape
Malvasia
Malvasia delle Lipari is the aromatic white grape behind the Aeolian Islands’ historic dry and sweet wines. In the Malvasia delle Lipari DOC, it may be blended with... View grape -
White grape
Muscat Blanc
Muscat blanc is a white wine grape varietal popular in the Muscat d'Alsace, Moscato d'Asti and Beaumes-de-Venise regions. View grape -
White grape Semidano
Semidano is a rare Sardinian grape variety used in varietal and blended white wines on the Italian island. Historically used for passito wines, it is now mainly produced... -
White grape Nasco
Nasco is an ancient, light-skinned grape variety primarily grown in Sardinia. It is mainly used for sweet passito and fortified liquoroso wines under the Nasco di Cagliari DOC... -
White grape Nuragus
Nuragus is an ancient white grape variety primarily used in Sardinia to produce Nuragus di Cagliari DOC wines. Mostly consumed locally, it is rarely exported. Known for high... -
White grape Torbato
Torbato is a Mediterranean white-wine grape variety now exclusively grown in northwest Sardinia, revived by the Sella & Mosca wine estate. This straw-colored wine is typically crisp, dry,... -
White grape Vernaccia di Oristano
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White grape
Vermentino
Explore the Renaissance of Sardinian Vermentino: From Forgotten Grape to Crisp Elegance. Discover Now! View grape -
Red grape Bovale Sardo
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Red grape Cagnulari
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Red grape
Cannonau (Grenache)
Discover grenache, a mediterranean grape that is dark-skinned red wine grape variety and an unlikely hero of a grape View grape -
Red grape
Carignano
Learn about Carignan wine, from old-vine Languedoc and Priorat to its flavor profile, synonyms, food pairings, and best examples. View grape -
Red grape
Cabernet Sauvignon
Learn what Cabernet Sauvignon tastes like, where it grows best, why it matters in Bordeaux, and how to pair and serve this age-worthy red grape. View grape -
Red grape Graciano
Graciano is a red grape variety primarily grown in Spain's Rioja region. Known for its thick skins, small berries, and low yields, this grape produces wines that are... -
Red grape Monica
Monica is a grape variety found only in Sardinia, Italy, and is one of the island's most common despite being relatively unknown. It produces medium-bodied wines with gentle... -
Red grape Nieddera
Nieddera is a rare dark-skinned Sardinian grape associated particularly with the lower Tirso Valley near Oristano. It produces deeply colored reds and rosés, either varietally or in blends.
Sardinia gastronomy
If there is one thing that excites the Sardinians, it’s great food. The island is famous for local specialties, including fregula, small balls of toasted semolina pasta commonly served with seafood, broth, or vegetables. Few combinations are more delicious than fregula with grilled langoustines.
Porcetto arrosto, or roast suckling pig, is another gastronomic tour de force. It is traditionally roasted slowly until the meat becomes exceptionally tender. Locals are also very fond of bottarga, made from salted and dried grey mullet roe, which is commonly grated over pasta dishes.
However, from our perspective, Sardinia’s greatest gift to the culinary world is its exceptional selection of fresh fish and shellfish.
Many traditional restaurants and osterias feature fish among their daily specials, from lobster to sea bream and everything in between. Enjoy it cooked over vine embers with a chilled glass of Vermentino. You can’t go wrong.
A Gastronomic Guide to Sardinian Cuisine: Read more
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