Sardinia Wine Region Guide

Winemaking and regional classifications

Although the island lacks a long-established precedent for quality winemaking, Sardinian wine has boasted legal status since the mid-1700s. Moreover, there are esoteric grape varieties galore here, including the super-rare Giro, underrated Monica, and delectable Nuragus. Semidano is another local gem grown on volcanic soils in Mogoro in the southwest; its minerality and expressive bouquet recall Mount Etna and its saline Carricante dry whites.

Meanwhile, in the northwest, Sella & Mosca continues to work wonders with the native Torbato, another one of Sardinia’s indigenous gems.

However, winemaking philosophies are fairly standardized in this part of the world despite the rich variety of grapes, appellations (17 DOCs), and flavors. White grapes are typically harvested, crushed, and fermented in stainless steel, with temperature control used to maintain freshness and poise in the wines.

Protective winemaking, first pioneered in the New World, is almost a religion in Sardinia; a small amount of skin-contact and orange whites are also made here, produced by the island’s more innovative winegrowers. Nevertheless, the market demands upfront fruit: this is achieved by protecting the juice from oxygen and vinifying in steel tanks at low temperatures, generally under 77°F.

Vermentino’s Excellence

Many of Sardinia’s greatest whites are made by closely following this ‘recipe.’ Vermentino di Sardegna DOC is the most important example. It is commercially successful and widely exported to mainland and northern Europe. In its purest form, Vermentino is quaffable material; light and refreshing, its lemony bouquet suits holidaymakers perfectly.

But don’t be fooled: Vermentino is no one-trick pony. Leading producers elevate Vermentino, a grape common across the Mediterranean, to new heights. Occasionally, this will involve a touch of barrique and/or skin contact, creating a richer and fuller white than entry-level Vermentino di Sardegna.

Yet, the true quality differential in Sardinia is terroir, not winemaking. Vermentino’s‘ premier cru’ is found in the rocky, arid northeast of Sardinia in a sub-zone called Gallura. A unique combination of soil, heat, and marine winds makes Vermentino a gloriously honeyed yet racy white wine. The authorities recognized this by creating the island’s inaugural DOCG—Vermentino di Gallura. Drink it with friends, preferably in the company of Sardinian seafood and a spectacular view. Long-lasting memories are guaranteed.

Sardinia’s reds, though, are less internationally recognized. Grenache, known locally as Cannonau, is the island’s signature red grape, accounting for over 20% of total production.

In tandem with Spain, there is a growing movement to celebrate and preserve the oldest parcels of Grenache – these bush vines yield tiny berries of immensely concentrated fruit. Some of the best examples are made in the northeast, particularly in the hills surrounding Mamoiada.

In the DOC of Carignano del Sulcis, one finds another worthwhile curiosity. The terroir is located on the southwest of the island—a sea of bush vines covers the beautiful landscape. Legendary wine consultant Giacomo Tachis brought this long-ignored corner of Sardinia into the spotlight.

He saw the potential to grow Carignan to perfection and quickly invested heavily in the region. His wine joins a small but exciting firmament of perfect reds, such as Terre Brune and Rocco Rubia. These wines are velvety, intensely flavored, and structured examples, with Carignan usually playing a dominant role in the blends.

Icon Wines and Lesser-Known Appellations

Meanwhile, visitors to the island should venture north of the capital, Cagliari. You’ll discover Sardinia’s leading contender for an icon wine is.

Argiolas is a family-run winery that refuses to work with international varieties. Their top cuvee, Turriga, a powerfully concentrated blend of Cannonau and Carignano, has benefited from Tachis’s expertise.

This Sardinian wine is one of Italy’s most profound and exciting discoveries in a long time. It deserves to be much better known.

Other appellations are also going from strength to strength. These include Malvasia di Bosa, Alghero, Cannonau di Sardegna, and Cagliari’s extensive DOC. Like Vermentino, Malvasia produces a delightfully varied wine in Sardinia’s terroir.

Sweet reds also remain part of the landscape despite the moribund state of the dessert wine market. The Vernaccia di Oristano appellation arguably produces some of Sardinia’s most exceptional wines: rare and rich sweet Moscatos and Malvasias capable of aging indefinitely.

Their limited export makes them a delightful secret for adventurous wine lovers who visit Sardinia.

Geography and terroir

Sardinia is a tourist paradise with its stunning coastline, creamy white beaches, and rolling hills. However, while most people obsess over the surf and sunshine, Sardinia’s wine regions are increasingly attracting jet-setting oenophiles.

And there is much to discover: growers work over 9000 square miles of landmass, so there’s plenty of opportunity for site variation and climatic differences – particularly considering the varied topography.

Settled long ago by the ancient Phoenicians, the island is located to the south of Corsica and west of mainland Italy – deep in the Mediterranean heart. To the east and northeast are Lazio and Campania; however, winemakers have never shown much interest in key Italian grape varieties such as Trebbiano and Sangiovese. Instead, they celebrate their traditions and unique wine flavors with pride and gusto.

Indeed, Sardinia offers a rich palate of raw ingredients—a nice antidote to the humdrum Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot produced worldwide. It also has countless old bush vines that electrify sommeliers and wine geeks; these thrilling wines are slowly gaining traction among consumers who seek a point of difference. And yet, despite all this amazing potential, Sardinia has the lowest wine production per hectare of any Italian region.

Much to our amazement, despite the favorable terroir and climate, only a relatively small percentage of the island’s acreage is planted to vines. Today, approximately 27,000 hectares of vines are grown on the island, much of which are concentrated on the flat Campidano plain in the south. Many of Sardinia’s most promising appellations, including Vermentino di Gallura and Algerho, are in the north.

Meanwhile, local growing conditions and soils run the whole gamut, from the rocky, arid northeast of Sardinia to the cooler terroirs of the Costa Smeralda. Winegrowers utilize an eclectic mix of granite, limestone, and clay soils, each contributing unique characteristics to the wines.

The island’s southwest features windswept, sandy vineyards, where bush vines dominate, and the yields are naturally very low. Excessive vigor is rarely a problem in such conditions, allowing the vines to focus their energy on producing high-quality grapes.

Climate Challenges and Adaptive Strategies

To be more accurate, the only potential fly in the ointment is heat – or drought. In recent years, temperatures have skyrocketed in July and August with extremely low rainfall, anomalous even by the standards of Sardinia.

This had led to a 25-30 percent fall in production in some areas, exacerbated by unseasonal hail in the spring. This sometimes puts enormous pressure on the vines, causing hydric stress and leaf burn. The only natural protection is the maritime breezes that blow off the Mediterranean.

However, man-made irrigation and effective canopy management are the most potent weapons in the fight against climate change. As elsewhere, producers want freshness and acidity in their wines and will do whatever it takes to avoid a lurch into cloying overripeness.

Sardinia gastronomy

If there is one thing that excites the Sardinians, it’s great food. The island is famous for its local delicacies, including regular (semolina and water are combined to create a type of small pasta, ‘bean,’ toasted with saffron). This will typically be served with various ingredients, none more delicious than grilled langoustines.

Porcetto arrosto (roast suckling pig) is another gastronomic tour de force. It is traditionally roasted for over five hours until the meat falls off the bone. Locals are also very fond of bottarga, which is made from red mullets’ roe (eggs). Sardinians often dry and salt these and use them as a ‘condiment,’ grating them over pasta dishes.

However, from our perspective, Sardinia’s greatest gift to the culinary world is its awesome selection of fresh fish and shellfish.

Every self-respecting restaurant and osteria on the island will have fish on its daily list of specials, from lobster to sea bream and everything in between. In most cases, it will have been caught that morning. Enjoy it cooked over vine embers with a chilled glass of Vermentino. You can’t go wrong.

A Gastronomic Guide to Sardinian Cusine: Read more