Corsica Wine Region

Winemaking and regional classifications

Although Corsica is heart-stoppingly beautiful, this is no wine Valhalla. Around 50% of total production carries the label IGP Ile de Beauté – a charming name for a distinctly average product. At best, the wines are straightforward, clean examples of local grapes designed for immediate consumption. They are coarse, unbalanced, and rough as sandpaper at their worst!

Excellence in Patrimonio

However, a growing volume of Corsican wine is well-made and terroir-driven, grown in the rocky hills and valleys of the island. Many critics would regard Vin de Corse Patrimonio as a leading contender for Corsica’s most impressive – and consistent – appellation, situated inland from the port of Bastia in the north. Cultivated on calcareous soils and bathed in an (almost) inexhaustible supply of sunshine, Nielluccio yields a very potent and rich expression of Tuscany’s signature grape. Once somewhat astringent and fierce in their youth, the reds have shown dramatic improvements over the past decade, with ripe tannins and more freshness. A combination of better vineyard work and superior winemaking is responsible for this elevation. Excellent whites also thrive here, crafted either from single-varietal Vermentino or Rhonish blends (Marsanne, Roussanne, and Grenache Blanc all flourish in Corsica), along with super-sweet Muscat Vin Doux Naturels.

Meanwhile, Vin de Corse Calvi is renowned for its soft and juicy interpretations of the esoteric Sciaccarello grape. This local curiosity is hardly seen outside of Corsica and Tuscany, where people call it Mammolo. Nonetheless, it yields a very attractive and invigorating style of red: soft and spicy, with aromas of garrigue, cherry and black pepper.

Sciaccarello also thrives in the granite soils of Sartene to the west of Patrimonio. The appellation of Calvi also earns renown for its Sangiovese reds (along with a smattering of international varieties), crafting crowd-pleasing wines that seldom lack fruit or flavor! The same could be said of the red and white wines made in Vin de Corse Figari and Porto-Vecchio. Much like Calvi, they have shown a particular aptitude for growing Sciaccarello.

Corsica’s Sweet and Aromatic Wine Tradition

Corsica also has a long and proud history of sweet wine production, albeit such wines are no longer in fashion today. Still, dessert wines of Muscat or Vermentino remain a specialty of the Cap Corse in the island’s northern section. From a commercial perspective, dry whites sold under the Coteaux du Cap Corse appellation are far more important. It is said that the world’s finest Vermentino is made in Sardinia. However, the best examples from northern Corsica provide stiff competition. They vary in style from light and aromatic to richly textured, exotic expressions of the Vermentino grape.

Producers sometimes age the most expensive cuvées in used oak to enhance the structure and mouthfeel. Amphorae and concrete eggs are also increasingly being utilized in Corsican winemaking. Yet the critical mass of producers have not embraced the scent and flavor of new barrique. During competitions and blind tastings, it usually becomes apparent that relatively few Corsican reds undergo maturation in new wood, possibly due to cost considerations as much as anything else. Instead, they display a lovely purity of fruit and intense aromatics: crushed blackberries combined with lavender, rosemary, and thyme.

Geography and terroir

The Ile de Beauté (beautiful island) certainly lives up to the billing. Crowned by jagged peaks, Corsica (just north of Sardinia) is resplendent with oak forests, waterfalls, shimmering lakes, olive groves, and vines. Bandits once hid from the authorities in its mountains and pastures – today, lonely shepherds still inhabit them, tending to their flocks. Meanwhile, over 5700 hectares of vineyards are managed by a sizable number of growers, used to produce a broad spectrum of wine styles: local quality standards run the whole gamut from the sublime to the execrable.

However, this is largely due to overproduction and poor winemaking rather than any basic deficiencies in the island’s climate and terroir. Indeed, Corsica is blessed with a very sunny and dry Mediterranean climate, although drought and hydric stress are becoming major issues as temperatures continue to rise. Nonetheless, it is relatively easy to grow grapes in the sun-kissed vineyards of Corsica, provided you have an adequate supply of irrigation water. Fungal diseases, the bane of the Champenoise, hardly ever occur at harvest time because rainfall concentrates in the winter months. That fact, combined with the long growing season, ensures that late-ripening varieties such as Grenache and Sangiovese can easily achieve alcohol levels of 14.5% plus. Thus, harvest timing is crucial if quality-focused producers wish to avoid excessive abvs and intense jammy flavors.

Exploring the Hidden Diversity of Corsican Terroirs

Yet there is more than meets the eye in the astonishingly diverse terrain of Kallisté. Although most visitors make a beeline for the bays, ports, and bone-white beaches around the splendid coastline, Corsica’s mountainous interior covers a vast part of the landmass. As a result, its varied patchwork of terroirs have only a very dry July and August in common; high-altitude mesoclimates are increasingly exploited by winemakers to offset the consequences of global warming. Diurnal temperature variation, particularly when cultivating white varieties, can mean the difference between brisk acidity and cloying dross in the vineyards of Corsica. However, the powerful – and omnipresent – winds that blow from Provence and Gibraltar are both a blessing and a curse. They help prevent fungal diseases in the spring, yet they can hinder flowering in May and fruit set in June.

But, on the plus side, a very fine selection of grape varieties and soils blesses Corsica. Nielluccio, Tuscany’s Sangiovese, makes up about one-third of the total acreage; all and sundry use Vermentino as the signature white grape. This dynamic duo, along with a whole host of other periphery varieties, grows on a mixture of granite, clay, and limestone soils. The latter is responsible for the mineral-infused and surprisingly fresh white wines of Patrimonio, situated in the northeast of the island.

The lowdown

Corsica’s wine industry was once held in very poor esteem. The temptation to export large volumes of bulk wine had proven irresistible to the island’s cooperatives and growers in the 1980s, especially in a highly conducive climate to generous yields. Yet, as politicians began to panic over a phenomenon known as ‘Europe’s wine lake,’ Brussels decided to act. Government authorities handed winegrowers generous subsidies to uproot the most productive and low-quality vines, while new investments upgraded dilapidated cellars and archaic equipment. As a result, wineries in Corsica now possess relatively good equipment; most premium whites ferment in stainless steel to meet the demands of 21st-century consumers, harnessing all the benefits of temperature control and protective winemaking. Meanwhile, a new generation of growers are wowing the critics and seducing sommeliers, making the most of their fantastic terroirs.

Of course, this is a familiar story: many European wine regions have witnessed a major rejuvenation over the past 25 years. Neither is Corsica unique in terms of its sunny climate, beautiful scenery, and dalliance with classical French grapes. Indeed, while Merlot, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Sauvignon are not heavily represented in the super-premium segment, increasingly bland (if acceptable) IGT wines are based on these ubiquitous varieties.

Rising International Interest

However, there are still plenty of reasons to get excited about Corsican wine. International awareness is growing after a long hiatus, buoyed by the island’s thriving tourist industry. A surfeit of attractions – pristine beaches, hilltop villages, superlative restaurants – keeps the sybarites returning for more. This provides a vital impetus for producers to maintain capital investment, raise standards, and improve infrastructure. Yet they have largely resisted the temptation to market heavily oaked cuvées to an unsuspecting audience, preferring direct flavors and the invigorating scent of wild scrubland. This is what discerning oenophiles are looking for, not Merlot or Cabernet – and certainly, not Sauvignon Blanc! They want to experience native grapes such as Sciacarello and Vermentino – fruity wines of intriguingly different flavors representing Corsica’s vine heritage best. Unfortunately, the islanders tend to keep the best vintages for themselves—the perfect excuse to visit the island.

Corsican gastronomy

Corsica’s diverse and vibrant port cities are full of exceptional places to eat. However, if you wish to avoid the tourist crowds in summer, eschew Ajaccio and Bonifacio for the rugged charms of Bastia. In the old port and quai des Martyrs, feast on fresh tuna, grilled sardines, mussels, oysters, wild boar, and Brocciu (ewe’s milk soft cheese). In this part of the world, the food is filling, and the welcomes are warm.

A Gastronomic Guide to the Cusine of Corsica: Read more