Lazio Wine Region Guide

Geography and terroir

Lazio offers a feast of experiences for the sophisticated traveler, from imperial treasures to lush green hills. And yet, its wine offer is largely the preserve of Romans and tourists, despite the broad range of grape varieties (over 200) and wine styles on offer in this part of central Italy. The question is, why?

In a word, quality. Or lack thereof. With some notable exceptions, the region’s winemaking culture relied on antiquated equipment and generous yields in the 20th century, producing large quantities of neutral white wines for early consumption. Famous appellations such as Est! Est! Est!, meanwhile, was accused of trading on their oddball name as a surrogate for standards and premium quality; a great deal of Montefiasconebianco remains very lackluster today.

In truth, Lazio is not yet on equal terms with the magnificent wines of Tuscany, Umbria, Campania, and Piedmont. There is still much work to be done.

Diverse Viticultural Assets

However, dismissing this diverse region’s entire vinous output would also be unfair. There are over 25 DOCs and three DOCG appellations in Lazio, encompassing a broad spectrum of terroirs and mesoclimates in west-central Italy. To the north and northeast are Tuscany and Umbria, respectively – Campania and the vineyards of Naples are located to the south. To the west is the Tyrrhenian Sea and its (essential) maritime breezes that help to moderate the torrid heat of July and August.

Elevation also plays a key role in Lazio viticulture; the western foothills of the Appennino Abruzzese are prime vineyard real estate, as diurnal temperature variation helps maintain the grapes’ acidity. Yet, at the same time, mountainous terrain provides shelter from the chilling winds of January and February.

Organic Growth and Grape Varieties

Today, there are approximately 18000 hectares under vine in the wider region, including a growing population of organic vineyards. Many of the leading appellations – Marino, Frascati, Castelli Romani, and Cesanese del Piglio – are located to the south of Rome and flanked by the Apennines to the east. These ancient volcanic soils, however, can be too fertile for high-quality viticulture: the plant’s metabolism goes into overdrive, delivering inflated yields and dilute juice.

Fortunately, some exceptional climats (vineyard sites) in the hills of Lazio combine a favorable, south-facing aspect with good drainage and elevation. Rich in potassium and chalky limestone, tufa (tuffeau to the French) is ideally suited to producing high-quality white wines.

The signature grapes of Lazio include the esoteric Bombino Bianco, Bellone Bianco, Campania’s Greco, and the ubiquitous (and derided) Trebbiano. There is also a great deal of Malvasia di Candia and Malvasia Puntinata grown across the region, particularly in the vineyards of Frascati and Cannellino di Frascati.

However, Lazio is not immune to globalized trends and accountant-led winemaking: Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc have been making considerable inroads in recent years. The resulting output varies significantly – impressive drops, execrable plonk, and everything in between!

International Influence

International red grapes are also growing in popularity in the vineyards of Rome. Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and even Tempranillo can thrive here, while the native Cesanese is starting to impress critics and sommeliers who want to keep their consumers engaged with up-and-coming styles. Local Canaiolo, Ciliegiolo, and Nero Buono also show great potential – judicious site selection and rigorous canopy management yield aromatic red wines that showcase crunchy fruit and moderate tannins. When served lightly chilled, they perfectly complement a summer picnic on the shores of Lake Bolsena.

Winemaking and regional classifications

The vineyards of Rome’s backyard have been making white wines since the days of Etruscan warriors and Roman Emperors. Yet the traditional output of Lazio’s cooperatives would surely horrify modern audiences: sweet (‘abbocato’ in Italian) and neutral whites with low acidity and a dearth of character. Some of the most famous examples include Marino and Frascati DOCs,  both easily accessible from the suburbs of Rome.

However, the appellation of Frascati now regulates the production of dry wines (still and sparkling) that rely heavily on local vine varieties. Blends are the lifeblood of the zone, typically a mixture of Malvasia di Candia, Malvasia Puntinata, Greco, Trebbiano, and/or Bellone Bianco. The designation was created in 1966 when stainless steel and temperature control were not yet widely available in the cellars of Italy.

Today, fermentation in steel tanks is commonplace in most wineries and is used to produce aromatic and fruit-driven styles.

Castelli Romani and Marino

Thus, the wines of the Castelli Romani (a group of hillside and lakeside villages to the south of Rome) have improved dramatically in the 21st century, with far less oxidation and stale neutrality present in the critical mass of labels. That said, even well-made Frascati is seldom a dead ringer for Montrachet. Or, indeed, Spain’s Godello. At best, it offers clean fruit, fresh acidity, and a stylistic coherence; very few blends are matured in wood, as Frascati is designed for early consumption. Two additional designations, Cannellino di Frascati and Frascati Superiore DOCG, govern the production of botrytized sweet wines and a superior dry white, respectively.

In neighboring Marino, both sweet and dry wines are made on the outskirts of a beautiful castle town, where vineyards are cooled by maritime winds that blow off the Tyrrhenian Sea. In tandem with Frascati, local growers pick and mix from an eclectic palate of regional flavors. However, even ”single-varietal” labels made from Bellone, Greco, Malvasia, and Verdicchio can legally incorporate other grapes – the maximum permitted is 15 percent. It is said that Marino outclasses Frascati due to the former’s superior body and intensity of fruit flavor.

Moving north, Est! Est! Est! has established a reputation entirely based on its quirky name and a romantic origin story involving a German bishop and a manservant called Martinus. The wine, however, is usually the subject of derision from buyers and critics: even modern technology cannot coax much flavor out of high-yielding Trebbiano Toscano.

Nevertheless, these still and sparkling blends, sweet and dry, can offer welcome refreshment in the hot summer months – the key is to moderate your expectations. Moreover, Est! Est! Est! is widely available and rarely expensive.

Emerging Red Wine Excellence

This is mainly due to its extensive acreage and high-yielding vines: the appellation is situated to the north of Rome, encompassing the communes of Montefiascone, Bolsena, San Lorenzo Nuovo, Grotte di Castro, Gradoli, Capodimonte and Marta. Indeed, the lake-facing scenery is absolutely idyllic and perfect for a weekend break away from the madness of the Eternal City.

The area’s fertile soils provide a generous supply of quaffable white: clean, crisp, and inoffensive to drink. Sparkling versions, typically made via the tank method, are delicious alongside freshly caught seafood. Just don’t expect a facsimile of Champagne.

Meanwhile, Lazio’s best producers have demonstrated that we should pay closer attention to its hitherto underappreciated red wines. The star turn is undoubtedly Cesanese, a unique red grape with no fewer than two DOCs and one DOCG. The latter, Cesanese del Piglio, is perhaps the most exciting subregion operating in Lazio today. Working with exceptional parcels of old Cesanese vines, winemakers such as Damiano Ciolli are helping to bring respect and acclaim back to the vineyards of Rome.

Cesanese Wines

So, too, is the dynamic local Consorzio motivated by quality. According to the DOCG framework, Cesanese must constitute at least 90 percent of the final blend. However, a broad spectrum of native and imported grapes, including white varieties, can be added to the wine. The vignoble is found southeast of Italy’s capital, surrounding the towns of Serrone, Acuto, Anagni, and Paliano.

After the harvest and vinification, stainless steel and/or concrete are normally used, and a Cesanese del Piglio Speriore is matured for 18 months before release. Neutral oak is preferable as new barrique can overwhelm Cesanese’s spicy and floral perfume.

In the Middle Ages, Popes Innocenzo III and Bonifacio VIII were reportedly very impressed by Cesanese’s attractive cherry and red pepper bouquet. Doubtless, the wines would have been drunk young in this era –imbibed from metal and ceramic goblets adorned with elaborate motifs.

Yet, the grape does not usually show its full hand until at least 5-7 years in bottle. What emerges can be deliciously concentrated and seductive, a union of red fruits and spicy/herbal notes that recall the garrigue-covered hills of southern Italy. The best examples should be enjoyed with 5-star cuisine: tagliatelle al ragù d’anatrad (duck ragu), porchetta (roast pork), and braised lamb, Abruzzi style.

Equally, plenty of international varietals are available if you want to play it safe. Marketed under the highly flexible IGP and vino de Tavola designations, regional Bordeaux blends can be a good value alternative to the more established names of Tuscany. The growing number of Syrah wines, albeit off a small base, are also worthy of closer investigation.

Lazio gastronomy

Lazio’s diverse food culture is rooted in its multicultural past: deep frying, which originates in Jewish cooking, is an essential part of any culinary experience in the towns and villages of Castelli Romani. Deep-fried fillets of baccalà (salt cod), fiori di zuzza (courgette flowers) stuffed with mozzarella and anchovies, and carciofi alla giuda (artichokes) are a must on any gastronomic itinerary.

Meanwhile, the atmosphere in the summer months is simply unbeatable: most establishments offer outside tables in unbelievably cute piazzas and medieval alleyways. Arrive early or book ahead to secure your little piece of romantic paradise.

A Gastronomic Guide to the Cuisine of Lazio: read more