Somontano Wine Region Guide

Geography and terroir

The name Somontano means ‘at the foot of the mountain’. It’s an apt title for this beautiful region: on a clear day, you can see the snow-covered Pyrenees in the distance. Indeed, the highest peaks lie in the Huesca province of northeastern Spain, crossed by the Aragonese variation of the pilgrims’ route to Santiago de Compostela. The region’s climate varies as much as the landscape: winters can be long and summers dry. In addition, growers have to contend with sudden temperature changes when the seasons change.

But there is much that is advantageous about the topography of Somontano. The Sierra de Guara and Sierra de Salinas protect vines from cold northern influence, providing a gentle south-facing amphitheater of prime vineyard real estate – soils range from sandy to gravel and limestone. The winegrowing area is centered on Barbastro and the villages of Salas Bajas and Salas Altas, east of Huesca. Vines are also planted along the banks of the Vero and Cinca rivers.

The Importance of Elevation

But the most important quality factor, as elsewhere, is elevation: some vineyards, including those in Secastilla, lie above 700 meters, affording all the benefits of diurnal temperature variation. These high-altitude climats (vineyard sites) are understandably some of the most coveted terroirs in Somontano.

Winemaking and regional classifications

Historically, Aragonese wines had little chance of finding an audience abroad. Based on a hotchpotch of traditional grapes (local varieties include Moristel and Parraleta for red wine, and Macabeo and Alcañón for whites), poor winemaking produced coarse, rustic caricatures.

To be blunt, they were dire. Finally, however, Viñas del Vero and its contemporaries instigated a revolution in Somontano winemaking in the late 1980s and 1990s, investing in vineyards and modern wineries. Their plantings included Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, and Spanish noble grapes like Tempranillo.

Defining Characteristics

So, it is tough to pigeonhole the wines of Somontano. However, the overarching theme is ripe fruit and stupendous value; Viñas del Vero, Enate, and Bodega Pirineos release very few wines that are poorly made or expensive. Crisp acidity is another welcome characteristic that defines many Somontano wines.

At the same time, freshness is a top priority for many winemakers. As a result, some of the most impressive reds are mouth-filling Bordeaux blends: savory concoctions that can compete with the leading labels of the Médoc.

The Tempranillo, meanwhile, is ripe and succulent, while top-notch Chardonnays from Somontano come dangerously close to knocking Chivite’s fine examples off their perch! The region has also enjoyed success with grape varieties that stubbornly refuse to yield decent wine in other parts of Spain; Gewürztraminer is up there with the finest expressions made in Alsace.

However, sommeliers will tell you that Garnacha (Grenache) is a variety worth getting excited about. They may have a point: old vine Grenache is one of Aragon’s USPs, a style that combines top Priorat’s potency with Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s finesse. Viñas del Vero’s Secastilla is one of the best examples, based on fruit harvested from low-yielding ancient bush vines. A mouthful of complex, earthy, and spicy red fruit awaits.

The lowdown

Somontano is a conundrum. At first glance, the region is an unmitigated success story: dynamic producers, high-quality wines, a developed tourism infrastructure, and scenery to die for. Some of Spain’s leading white wines are made in the Pyrenean foothills, where elevation helps preserve freshness. Conversely, this corner of Aragon has yet to establish a firm identity abroad, lacking the cachet of Rioja and Ribera del Duero. Ironically, part of the problem is the emphasis on international varieties, despite local pride in the quality of Aragonese Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.

Don’t get us wrong: the best examples are genuinely world-class wines – able to compete with the best of Burgundy and Bordeaux. However, there is an argument that French grapes have saturated the market with premium wines. The modern paradigm increasingly centers upon providing a point of difference as opposed to simply emulating the triumphs of others.

Garnacha and Indigenous Varieties

To that end, wineries like Viñas del Vero focus on core strengths. Somontano’s flag-bearer makes a persuasive case for Garnacha with Secastilla. Indeed, amid Aragon’s diverse bag of varieties and wines, there is something beguiling in the density and perfume of old-vine Grenache.

Secastilla champions this underrated grape, offering irresistible value when benchmarked against the top cuvées of the southern Rhône. In addition, traditionalists like Bodega Pirineos work hard to maintain the region’s (almost) forgotten indigenous varieties, squeezing finesse from the problematic Moristel.

Meanwhile, the low-yielding but structured and mineral-scented Parraleta deserves a second look. If Somontano returns to its roots, it stands a better chance of being taken seriously abroad. The world does not need any more cedary Cabernet Sauvignon, no matter how delicious it is.

Somontano gastronomy

Somontano’s kitchens make good use of local lamb, artisan cheeses, cured meats, and the produce of the surrounding huertas. Look for chiretas, the rice-filled lamb tripe specialty, and pink Barbastro tomatoes in season. Those with a sweet tooth should leave room for crespillos.

Expect a strong emphasis on meat, particularly as Aragon’s cold, dry mountain air is ideal for curing jamon! Cochifrito is a tasty mix of fried lamb strips, lemon, paprika, and lashings of garlic. Enjoy it with a glass of Somontano Grenache in the liveliest and noisiest tapas bar you can find.