Somontano Wine Region Guide

Winemaking and regional classifications

Historically, the wines of Aragon stood little chance of finding an audience abroad. Based on a hotchpotch of indigenous grapes (local varieties include Moristel, Parraleta for red wine, and Macabeo and Alcañon for the whites), poor winemaking produced coarse and rustic caricatures. To be blunt, they were dire. Finally, however, Viñas del Vero and its contemporaries instigated a revolution in Somontano winemaking in the early 00s, replacing inadequate clones with high-quality international varietals. These include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, and Spanish noble grapes like Tempranillo.

So it is tough to pigeonhole the wines of Somontano. However, the overarching theme is ripe fruit and stupendous value; very few wines released by Viñas del Vero, Enate, or the cooperative Pirineos are poorly made or expensive. Crisp acidity is another welcome characteristic that defines many Somontano wines, not least because soils have a low pH – elevation also helps keep alcohol levels in check. At the same time, freshness is a top priority for all winemakers. As a result, some of the most impressive reds are mouth-filling Bordeaux blends: savory concoctions that can compete with the leading labels of the Medoc.

The Tempranillo, meanwhile, is ripe and succulent, while top-notch Chardonnays from Somontano come dangerously close to knocking Chivite’s fine examples of their perch! The region has also enjoyed success with grape varieties that stubbornly refuse to yield decent wine in other parts of Spain; Gewurztraminer is up there with the finest expressions made in Alsace.

However, sommeliers will tell you that Garnacha (Grenache) is a variety worth getting excited about. They may have a point: old vine Grenache is one of Aragon’s USPs, a style that combines top Priorat’s potency with Chateauneuf-du-Pape’s finesse. Viñas del Vero’s Secastilla is one of the best examples, based on fruit harvest from low-yielding ancient bush vines. A mouthful of complex, earthy, and spicy red fruit awaits.

Geography and terroir

The name Somontano means ‘at the foot of the mountain’. It’s an apt title for this beautiful region: on a clear day, you can see the snow-covered Pyrenees in the distance. Indeed, the highest peaks lie in the Huesca province of northeastern Spain, crossed by the Aragonese variation of the pilgrims’ route to Santiago de Compostela. The region’s climate varies as much as the landscape: winters can be long and summers dry. In addition, growers have to contend with sudden temperature changes when the seasons change.

But there is much that is advantageous about the topography of Somontano. The Sierra de Guara and Sierra de Salinas protect vines from cold northern influence, providing a gentle south-facing amphitheater of prime vineyard real estate – soils range from sandy to gravel and limestone. The winegrowing area is centered on the villages of Barbastro, Salas Bajas, and Salas Altas, east of Huesca. Vines are also planted along the banks of the Vero and Cinca canals.

But the most important quality factor, as elsewhere, is elevation: vineyard land rises to 650 meters above sea level in some places, affording all the benefits of diurnal temperature variation. These high-altitude climats (vineyard sites) are understandably some of the most coveted terroirs in Somontano; the total area under vine has more than doubled since the late 1990s, rising to over 4000 hectares. As it stands today, there are no plans to undertake a formal classification of terroir in the region, unlike Bierzo, Priorat, and neighboring Rioja.

The lowdown

Somontano is a conundrum. At first glance, the region is an unmitigated success story: dynamic producers; high-quality wines; a developed tourism infrastructure, and scenery to die for. Some of Spain’s leading white wines are made here, in this cool-climate DO nestled in the Pyrenees. Conversely, this corner of Aragon has yet to establish a firm identity abroad, lacking the cachet of Rioja and Ribera del Duero. Ironically, part of the problem is the emphasis on international varieties, despite local pride in the quality of Aragonese Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Don’t get us wrong: the best examples are genuinely world-class wines – able to compete with the best of Burgundy and Bordeaux. However, there is an argument that the market is saturated with premium wines based on French grapes. The modern paradigm increasingly centers upon providing a point of difference as opposed to simply emulating the triumphs of others.

To that end, wineries like Viñas del Vero focus on core strengths. Rather than trying to be all things to all men, Somontano’s flag-bearer regards Garnacha as its secret weapon on the export markets, which is a wise move. Indeed, amid Aragon’s diverse bag of varieties and wines, there is something quite beguiling in the density and perfume of old vine Grenache. Its top wines are cheerleaders for this underrated grape, representing irresistible value when benchmarked against the top cuvées of the southern Rhone. In addition, traditionalists like Bodega Pirineos work very hard at maintaining the region’s (almost) forgotten indigenous varieties, squeezing finesse out of the problematic Moristel.

Meanwhile, the low-yielding but structured and mineral-scented Parraleta deserves a second look. If Somontano returns to its roots, it stands a better chance of being taken seriously abroad. The world does not need any more cedary Cabernet Sauvignon, no matter how delicious it is.

Somontano gastronomy

The interior of northeastern Spain has been enriched by centuries of foreign influence, especially the Moors, who revolutionized local gastronomy in the early Middle Ages. Thanks to them, chefs take rice, oranges, almonds, and saffron for granted. These ingredients, and more, are put to spectacular effect in the kitchens of Huesca and Zaragoza – the latter is one of Spain’s best destinations to travel from bar to bar, sampling delicious tapas. Expect a strong emphasis on meat, particularly as Aragon’s cold, dry mountain air is ideal for curing jamon! Cochifrito is a tasty mix of fried lamb strips, lemon, paprika, and lashings of garlic. Enjoy it with a glass of Somontano Grenache in the liveliest and noisiest tapas bar you can find.