Condrieu Wine Region Guide

Winemaking and regional classifications

Unlike Cote-Rotie and Hermitage, Condrieu does not subscribe to blending different grape varieties. Only 100% Viognier grapes, grown on prized terroir, are allowed by the regulations. At its best, it combines a voluptuous texture with the most hauntingly beautiful bouquet, characterized by apricots, passion fruit, and garrigue. The wines come into their own when paired with Provencal cuisine – particularly bouillabaisse and Salade Niçoise. In general terms, Viognier tends to show well very young, benefiting little from extended bottle age. But there are exceptions, as we’ll see, to every rule.

Challenges in Condrieu

So, how is Condrieu made? Well, it depends on the producer in question; some wineries prioritize freshness overweight, fermenting their wines in stainless steel and avoiding the kiss of new oak. Young, ambitious growers have also been experimenting with late-picked, botrytized versions and skin-contact wines, producing a darkly colored, phenolic expression of the Viognier grape.

Andre Perret, Guigal, Georges Vernay, and Pierre Dumazet are among the top producers of classical, rich, and fragrant Condrieu, with Guigal being the most passionately committed to aging in barrique. Its winemaker prefers to vinify in a mixture of new barrels (one-third) and stainless steel tanks at low temperatures. Malolactic fermentation occurs before the wines are matured on 100% new French oak. Guigal describes the results in bottle as “intensely flowery (violets), and fruity (apricot, peaches and citrus)”. The wine is said to have a “rich, unctuous, and full-bodied palate, with light acidity and round fleshy fruits.”

Terroir as the Cornerstone of Quality

But terroir is the true kingmaker in Condrieu. To put it mildly, Viognier is not an easy variety to manage – especially in cooler vintages. Unfortunately, the vines must be sheltered from the cooling Mistral winds that tend to pick up at the flowering time (June). In addition, Viognier is prone to developing grapevine diseases, while older vines often produce a very meager – if concentrated – yield. The secret to producing superior wines is to harvest Viognier before its alcohol level becomes unwieldy, keeping that all-important acidity in the picture. As ever, balance is all.

Geography and terroir

Condrieu makes its home in one of the most beautiful parts of the Rhône Valley. Situated in southeastern France, this 250-mile-long body of water flows from the Swiss border to the azure blue expanse of the Mediterranean. To find Condrieu, head south from the village of Ampuis, and you’ll soon arrive at the heartland of the appellation, created in 1940. To the north are the Syrah vineyards of Côte Rôtie – the pretty town of Chavanay lies to the south. Cultivated on south-east-facing slopes towering above the village, the dramatically steep Viognier vineyards require hand harvesting as a matter of course. The appellation’s boundaries, stretching for just nine miles, are strictly demarcated. Only vineyards located in the communes of Condrieu, Chavanay, Limony, Malleval, Saint-Michel-sur-Rhône, Saint-Pierre-de-Bœuf, and Verin have the entitlement to fly the appellation banner. The climate is continental, with warm summers and cold winters.

Viticultural Practices

In addition, the south-facing aspect exposes the vines to prolonged amounts of sun in the warmer months, helping the late-ripening Viognier grape achieve good phenolic maturity levels. The soils are a mixture of mica and crumbled, sanded granite, eroded over the centuries. People routinely say that the high concentration of granite is responsible for Condrieu’s trademark minerality and freshness.

Yet the best sites, as any winemaker will confirm, are vineyards planted on sheltered slopes, defined by their mica-rich topsoil called arzelle. Although Condrieu has no formalized vineyard classification, all agree that Chanson, Chery, Cote Bonnette, and Les Eyguets are the top-performing climats. Grapes from these single vineyards will always fetch an inflated price.

The lowdown

The secret to enjoying Condrieu – as the cliché has it – is to drink this delectable nectar in the first flourishes of youth. Most critics, from Jancis Robinson MW to Tom Stevenson, have suggested that Condrieu will not necessarily age well. There is some truth to their observations: this full, fragrant, floral white of immense character can fade into oily mediocrity after a few years if the wine is based on young vines and/or made by inexperienced winemakers.

Château-Grillet: The Exception to the Rule

Yet some Condrieu can improve in bottle for at least a decade – or perhaps more. One of the most outstanding examples of the genre is made in a very special terroir known as Château-Grillet. Just 3.5 hectares of vines are cultivated in this single-producer appellation, making it one of France’s smallest. Purchased by Artémis Domaines in 2011 (the company that owns Château Latour), the quality at Grillet has soared in recent years. Many would say the winemaking has finally caught up with the superior terroir. Others would argue that the wines have always delivered endless pleasure due to the privileged position of the site.

Unique Terroir and Winemaking Excellence

It is undoubtedly true that Château-Grillet is blessed with exceptional raw materials. A majestic amphitheater of vines surrounds the property, sheltered from the Mistral winds yet perfectly aligned to receive the maximum sunlight. The soils are a potent mix of clay, decomposed granite, and mica. The resulting wine, aged in oak for at least 16 months, is utterly beguiling. It is intensely aromatic and usually very complex and long, with notes of stone and tropical fruit on the palate, balanced by textbook acidity. If you covet texture, opulence, and ripe fruit, Château-Grillet always delivers the goods. But there is no rush to drink Château-Grillet if you covet tertiary complexity over the instant gratification of ripe fruit. For that reason, it remains the sole ‘Grand Cru’ of this venerable appellation.

Condrieu gastronomy

Foodies eat your heart out: the proximity of Lyon to the Northern Rhone ensures that dining out is the highlight of any visit to Condrieu. In less than one hour, you’ll be in the gastronomic capital of France, Lyon (sorry Paris!), with endless delicacies to savor. Local highlights include saucisson aux pommes (sausage with potatoes), quenelle (a poached dumpling made out of freshwater fish), and boudin noir, a very pungent type of blood sausage. But save room for dessert, especially if it is a freshly made tarte aux pommes.

A Gastronomic Guide to the Cusine the Rhone Valley: Read more