How Priorat’s New Wine Classification System Elevates Terroir
November 25, 2024
Explore Priorat's new wine classification system, Els Noms de la Terra, and its innovative approach to terroir-driven winemaking.
Read articleRené Barbier, along with Carles Pastrana of Clos de l’Obac, Alvaro Palacios, renowned for L’Ermita in Priorat, and José Lluis Perez of Clos Martinet, and father of Sarah Perez, are esteemed pioneers in the relatively recently “rediscovered” wine region of Priorat. This quartet of winemakers were pivotal in establishing the region’s reputation. Notably, René Barbier started cultivating the single vineyard that would become Clos Mogador in the 1970s, situated in the now-famous wine village of Gratallops. As a result, the wines produced by Clos Mogador have attained legendary status, much like Italy’s Sassicaia and Bordeaux’s Château Margaux, making them genuinely iconic on the world stage.
One of the fascinating aspects of winemaking at Clos Mogador is René’s unique method of pressing grapes using an olive press. This distinctive approach only extracts half the amount of juice a conventional wine press would produce, resulting in a 50% more concentrated wine. Given that Priorat wines are already renowned for their intensity, and the region’s yields are exceptionally low compared to other Spanish wine regions such as La Rioja, the wines of Clos Mogador can be considered nearly elixirs. Notably, the influential wine critic Robert Parker was among the first international critics to applaud the exceptional quality of Clos Mogador’s wines. While there is now friendly competition from other emerging wineries in Priorat, Clos Mogador remains at the pinnacle of the Prestige Pyramid, alongside L’Ermita, Clos de l’Obac, and Clos Erasmus.
When exploring the enchanting wine region of Priorat, it’s easy to overlook the fame of its wines and winemakers. It’s not uncommon to encounter René Barbier or Carles Pastrana at local restaurants, wine shops, or any of the area’s approximately six main wine villages. This adds an exciting element for wine enthusiasts visiting the region. While Priorat remains relatively uncharted territory for foreign visitors, many locals from Catalonia and Spain may not even be able to pinpoint it on a map. However, those who have the opportunity to experience this beautiful region will be captivated by its stunning landscapes, including mountains, wildflowers, vineyards, gourmet restaurants, and medieval villages.
1987
22 ha
5 years-50 years
33,000 bottles (Priorat) and 17,000 bottles (Montsant)