Salta Wine Region Guide

Geography and terroir

The vineyards of Salta, set in a stunning natural setting, are famous for growing Argentina’s signature white grape, the reliably aromatic and versatile Torrontes. In recent times, red varieties have become far more important to the economy of the northwest; almost 70% of the region’s output is now dedicated to red wine production. Salta’s vines, located southeast of Jujuy and north of Catamarca, are surrounded by hills, mountains, and cacti, creating a diverse topography that fosters the production of a wide variety of wines.

Today, there are approximately 3,600 hectares under vine in the wider region, producing a diverse palette of red, white, and even sparkling wines. It remains one of Argentina’s most exciting destinations – an ocean of green set against the incredible backdrop of the Andes. In the 1500s, Spanish missionaries planted vines in the arid landscape of Salta, having failed with an earlier attempt near Buenos Aires. Like today’s oenophiles, they were seduced by the unique terrain and varied topography. This allure remains as potent as ever in 2024.

Yet, it was not until the late 20th century that a modern wine industry emerged in the northwest, led by Bemberg, Colome, and San Pedro de Yacochuya. Their significant investment has transformed old cellars and built several Napa Valley-esque premises in Salta, while new vineyards have been planted ever-higher in the Andes. Judicious pruning, old vines, and small crops are the way forward, as El Esteco and Bodegas Etchart have so ably demonstrated. Even the Bordeaux establishment has a presence here – Michel Rolland is a familiar sight at San Pedro de Yacochuya, a joint project between him and the Etchart family.

The Impact of High Altitude and Climate 

Meanwhile, soaring altitude (rising to 3000 meters in some places) is fairly commonplace in the mountainous terrain of Salta. This acts as a rain shadow for the vineyards below, making producers totally reliant on irrigation to ripen their crops – without it, vines could not survive here. Indeed, the average level of precipitation is just under 250mm per year, while summer temperatures rise to 100°F in January and February due to the proximity of the equator.

Evening temperatures, however, will often fall to under 55°F at very high altitudes as heat escapes faster, slowing down the vine’s metabolism in the process. This is the primary reason why Argentina can produce crisp, dry whites and super-fresh reds despite the very warm and dry climate. Moreover, with little or no disease in the vineyards, synthetic treatments can be kept to a minimum in regions like Salta.

Alejandro Nesman, winemaker at Piattelli, explains:

“Currently, we are working on eliminating herbicides and producing our own fertilizers using raw materials discarded from the winemaking process,”

It is also a very heterogeneous region, with several distinct subzones, including Cafayate, Cachi, and Molinos. However, the critical mass of vines are planted in the expansive Calchaquí Valley. Flanked by mountains, the valley floor crosses into the provinces of Catamarca and Tucumán, extending over 270 kilometers and containing a series of smaller valleys and rivers. Today, 4000 hectares are cultivated in this ancient topographical wonder, including Argentina’s oldest Torrontés vineyard, planted by farmers in 1862. Amazingly, about a third of Salta’s vines are centenarians – or older! The potential to make fine wine here is unprecedented.

The terroir is no less impressive. Sandy topsoils over clay dominate in certain areas, while other vineyards have a top layer of small stones and pebbles that reflect heat into the vine canopy. These infertile soils, free-draining and rich in minerals, are inappropriate for arable crops; however, they suit vines down to the ground. Outcrops of clay-limestone yield structured dry whites to complement the generous volume of superlative red wines produced in the valley, often using fruit sourced from Cafayate. A growing center of wine tourism, Cafayate is home to over half of the vineyards in the Calchaquí Valley and its subsidiaries. It is responsible for Salta’s most prestigious wines.

Winemaking and regional classifications

Passionate oenophiles will find much to enjoy in the vineyards of Salta: there is far more to northwestern Argentina than floral Torrontes or juicy Malbec! Exploiting every natural advantage at their disposal – not least high elevation – producers are extracting incredible color and concentration from superior clones of Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Tannat – a native of southwest France.

In the 19th century, European immigrants brought noble grape varieties such as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon to South America, replacing the Jesuit’s Criolla vines in the process. The introduction of modern technology, however, was the true catalyst for Argentina’s transformation into a leading producer of fine wine. That is as true of Salta as it is of Mendoza and its world-renowned wineries.

Rise in Wine Quality 

Yet the vineyards of the Calchaquí Valley are rapidly catching up. Today, low-yielding parcels of Petit Verdot, Syrah, Chardonnay, and even Riesling can slay European equivalents in blind tastings; Chile no longer has a South American monopoly on producing premium dry whites. Thus, the best of this exciting firmament offer an irresistible mix of intense fruit, concentration, and elegance, where an invigorating natural acidity tempers the sometimes weighty alcohol and tannin levels. It is no exaggeration to say that Salta’s winemakers have made impressive strides in wine quality over the past 15 years – and the hard work continues.

Cabernet Sauvignon, meanwhile, has emerged as a frontrunner for the region’s main competitor to ubiquitous Malbec. Founded in 1831 at the heart of the valley, Bodega Colomé continues to make a particularly striking example. Their approach is typical of all quality-focused wineries: hand-harvest berries are carefully sorted in the vineyard and cellar to discard less-than-perfect fruit. The grapes are then crushed and subjected to a cold soak (pre-fermentation maceration) to gently extract some color and flavor from the skins.

Balancing Elegance and Intensity

Many Bordeaux estates favor this method, arguing that it creates a more balanced red, free of harsh phenolics. In this case, a cold soak may last a few days before the winemaker decides to raise the temperature. In stainless steel tanks, wild yeast strains will kickstart the main vinification, using pump-overs to ensure the juice is in contact with the cap (solid material). Matured in both new and used French oak barrels for 18 months, Bodega Colomé’s Cabernet is forthright in its expression yet very elegant and refined. On the nose, crushed red fruits, cassis, and eucalyptus lead into a complex palate of warm spices, black fruit, and white pepper. It is exemplary.

Alejandro Nesman reveals:

“Lately, our primary efforts have been directed towards crafting blends centered around Cabernet Sauvignon, and we are also heavily involved in cultivating Cabernet Franc at our estate in Animaná. The challenge in Salta is to produce wines that are both intense and elegant. In the past, the wines were very intense but also very rustic, lacking elegance. The key is to work on the tannins properly and achieve aromatic and expressive wines.”

Expansion of White Wine

Older parcels of Syrah and Tannat also thrive on the infertile soils of the Calchaquí Valley, while fresh Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc prove that Argentina is no slouch in the white wine department. At the highest elevations, it is more than possible to fashion very stylish dry whites in Salta despite the intense sunlight and lack of rainfall. Many big and artisanal producers are taking aromatic grapes seriously as the demand for chilled beverages remains buoyant. A whirl of recent plantings, including Viognier and Chenin Blanc, has expanded the local wine palette like never before. Hot on the heels of Mendoza, Salta has achieved the unthinkable in a relatively short space of time.

Salta gastronomy

Salta’s food scene goes from strength to strength. An eclectic lineup is on offer in this vibrant city (including falafel and Thai!), which complements the myriad of bustling parilla restaurants, where sizzling meat is washed down with copious amounts of vino tinto.

Yet, if you’ve begun to tire of bife de chorizo (sirloin steak), grilled chicken, rabbit, goat, salmon, fresh pasta, and wood-fired pizza are all highly recommended. There may even be llama on the menu for adventurous gourmets. When in Salta.