Nowhere else in Argentina, or indeed South America, can match the unique charm of the province of Salta. Its northwestern cities and towns, the first colonial settlements in Argentina, stand as a monument to the nation’s complex and, at times, heartbreaking past. Salta and Cafayate, serving as gateways to the Valles Calchaquies and their breathtaking, high-altitude vines, offer a wine experience like no other.
In these unique conditions, Pioneers Raul Davalos and Donald Hess sought splendid isolation to produce mountain wine from vineyards. Today, some of Argentina’s finest Malbec, Chardonnay, and Torrontes are made in Salta: intense sunlight, high elevation, and Alpine breezes yield dazzling fruit and crystalline purity wines. The hype, for once, is totally justified.
However, it would be a mistake to describe Salta as “the new Mendoza.” It is a relatively small and compact region, producing less than two percent of the country’s total output. Moreover, it lacks the infrastructure – and crowds – of Argentina’s leading exporter.
Yet Salta doesn’t take long to work its magic on first-time visitors. There is much to discover in the wild northwest, where boundaries are broken in the search for brilliance. Argentina’s second center of fine wine, hitherto ignored, has proven its worth.
Giant cactus trees in the middle of a vineyard in the Salta region
The vineyards of Salta, set in a stunning natural setting, are famous for growing Argentina’s signature white grape, the reliably aromatic and versatile Torrontes. In recent times, red varieties have become far more important to the economy of the northwest; almost 70% of the region’s output is now dedicated to red wine production. Salta’s vines, located southeast of Jujuy and north of Catamarca, are surrounded by hills, mountains, and cacti, creating a diverse topography that fosters the production of a wide variety of wines.
Today, there are approximately 3,600 hectares under vine in the wider region, producing a diverse palette of red, white, and even sparkling wines. It remains one of Argentina’s most exciting destinations – an ocean of green set against the incredible backdrop of the Andes. In the 1500s, Spanish missionaries planted vines in the arid landscape of Salta, having failed with an earlier attempt near Buenos Aires. Like today’s oenophiles, they were seduced by the unique terrain and varied topography. This allure remains as potent as ever in 2024.
Yet, it was not until the late 20th century that a modern wine industry emerged in the northwest, led by Bemberg, Colome, and San Pedro de Yacochuya. Their significant investment has transformed old cellars and built several Napa Valley-esque premises in Salta, while new vineyards have been planted ever-higher in the Andes. Judicious pruning, old vines, and small crops are the way forward, as El Esteco and Bodegas Etchart have so ably demonstrated. Even the Bordeaux establishment has a presence here – Michel Rolland is a familiar sight at San Pedro de Yacochuya, a joint project between him and the Etchart family.
The Impact of High Altitude and Climate
Meanwhile, soaring altitude (rising to 3000 meters in some places) is fairly commonplace in the mountainous terrain of Salta. This acts as a rain shadow for the vineyards below, making producers totally reliant on irrigation to ripen their crops – without it, vines could not survive here. Indeed, the average level of precipitation is just under 250mm per year, while summer temperatures rise to 100°F in January and February due to the proximity of the equator.
Evening temperatures, however, will often fall to under 55°F at very high altitudes as heat escapes faster, slowing down the vine’s metabolism in the process. This is the primary reason why Argentina can produce crisp, dry whites and super-fresh reds despite the very warm and dry climate. Moreover, with little or no disease in the vineyards, synthetic treatments can be kept to a minimum in regions like Salta.
Alejandro Nesman, winemaker at Piattelli, explains:
“Currently, we are working on eliminating herbicides and producing our own fertilizers using raw materials discarded from the winemaking process,”
It is also a very heterogeneous region, with several distinct subzones, including Cafayate, Cachi, and Molinos. However, the critical mass of vines are planted in the expansive Calchaquí Valley. Flanked by mountains, the valley floor crosses into the provinces of Catamarca and Tucumán, extending over 270 kilometers and containing a series of smaller valleys and rivers. Today, 4000 hectares are cultivated in this ancient topographical wonder, including Argentina’s oldest Torrontés vineyard, planted by farmers in 1862. Amazingly, about a third of Salta’s vines are centenarians – or older! The potential to make fine wine here is unprecedented.
The terroir is no less impressive. Sandy topsoils over clay dominate in certain areas, while other vineyards have a top layer of small stones and pebbles that reflect heat into the vine canopy. These infertile soils, free-draining and rich in minerals, are inappropriate for arable crops; however, they suit vines down to the ground. Outcrops of clay-limestone yield structured dry whites to complement the generous volume of superlative red wines produced in the valley, often using fruit sourced from Cafayate. A growing center of wine tourism, Cafayate is home to over half of the vineyards in the Calchaquí Valley and its subsidiaries. It is responsible for Salta’s most prestigious wines.
Winemaking and regional classifications
Colome, Salta
Passionate oenophiles will find much to enjoy in the vineyards of Salta: there is far more to northwestern Argentina than floral Torrontes or juicy Malbec! Exploiting every natural advantage at their disposal – not least high elevation – producers are extracting incredible color and concentration from superior clones of Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Tannat – a native of southwest France.
In the 19th century, European immigrants brought noble grape varieties such as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon to South America, replacing the Jesuit’s Criolla vines in the process. The introduction of modern technology, however, was the true catalyst for Argentina’s transformation into a leading producer of fine wine. That is as true of Salta as it is of Mendoza and its world-renowned wineries.
Rise in Wine Quality
Yet the vineyards of the Calchaquí Valley are rapidly catching up. Today, low-yielding parcels of Petit Verdot, Syrah, Chardonnay, and even Riesling can slay European equivalents in blind tastings; Chile no longer has a South American monopoly on producing premium dry whites. Thus, the best of this exciting firmament offer an irresistible mix of intense fruit, concentration, and elegance, where an invigorating natural acidity tempers the sometimes weighty alcohol and tannin levels. It is no exaggeration to say that Salta’s winemakers have made impressive strides in wine quality over the past 15 years – and the hard work continues.
Cabernet Sauvignon, meanwhile, has emerged as a frontrunner for the region’s main competitor to ubiquitous Malbec. Founded in 1831 at the heart of the valley, Bodega Colomé continues to make a particularly striking example. Their approach is typical of all quality-focused wineries: hand-harvest berries are carefully sorted in the vineyard and cellar to discard less-than-perfect fruit. The grapes are then crushed and subjected to a cold soak (pre-fermentation maceration) to gently extract some color and flavor from the skins.
Balancing Elegance and Intensity
Many Bordeaux estates favor this method, arguing that it creates a more balanced red, free of harsh phenolics. In this case, a cold soak may last a few days before the winemaker decides to raise the temperature. In stainless steel tanks, wild yeast strains will kickstart the main vinification, using pump-overs to ensure the juice is in contact with the cap (solid material). Matured in both new and used French oak barrels for 18 months, Bodega Colomé’s Cabernet is forthright in its expression yet very elegant and refined. On the nose, crushed red fruits, cassis, and eucalyptus lead into a complex palate of warm spices, black fruit, and white pepper. It is exemplary.
Alejandro Nesman reveals:
“Lately, our primary efforts have been directed towards crafting blends centered around Cabernet Sauvignon, and we are also heavily involved in cultivating Cabernet Franc at our estate in Animaná. The challenge in Salta is to produce wines that are both intense and elegant. In the past, the wines were very intense but also very rustic, lacking elegance. The key is to work on the tannins properly and achieve aromatic and expressive wines.”
Expansion of White Wine
Older parcels of Syrah and Tannat also thrive on the infertile soils of the Calchaquí Valley, while fresh Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc prove that Argentina is no slouch in the white wine department. At the highest elevations, it is more than possible to fashion very stylish dry whites in Salta despite the intense sunlight and lack of rainfall. Many big and artisanal producers are taking aromatic grapes seriously as the demand for chilled beverages remains buoyant. A whirl of recent plantings, including Viognier and Chenin Blanc, has expanded the local wine palette like never before. Hot on the heels of Mendoza, Salta has achieved the unthinkable in a relatively short space of time.
Facts & Figures
Key wine styles
Full-bodied red and white wines
Appellation structure
Five GIs (Indicaciones Geográficas), including Molinos, San Carlos, and Salta
When and why did your winery invest in the Salta region?
Our winery decided to invest in the region in 2000 when my father, Juan Carlos, wanted to carry out a new project aimed at a more exclusive market. My family already had a long tradition in wine, started by my grandfather Roberto in Tolombón, south of Cafayate. He laid the foundations of our commitment to Cafayate, respect for the terroir, and dedication to work, which are values that have been fundamental in our path.
In that year, we acquired an old winery dating back to 1890 and modernized it with state-of-the-art infrastructure and technology. In addition, we restored old vineyards in the town of Cafayate, which allowed us to maintain the essence of the place while raising the quality of our wines. The first harvest we made was in 2002. Now, I have the privilege of leading this project as the first woman in our family’s history and one of the few women in Cafayate to run the winery. I continue guiding our team with the same love for the land and wine my ancestors instilled in us.
What changes/innovations are currently taking place in the region?
Our winery is characterized by an innovative approach, particularly visible in the creation of the “Pequeñas Fermentaciones” line, which I launched in 2016. This line has set a disruptive style in the region, introducing varieties such as Marsanne and Roussanne, an orange wine made with Torrontés (one of the first of the region), and carbonic maceration, which is a complete departure from the traditional. We pioneered the first GSM in the entire NOA, also part of this innovative line.
In the “Laborum de Parcela” line, we present traditional varieties with a modern approach. For example, we have introduced a high-end Torrontés that departs from the classic floral style, moving more towards a citrus profile with excellent acidity.
In the region, concrete eggs are increasingly used as fermenters, and other criollo varietals beyond Torrontés are being explored in reds and whites. In addition, many producers are certifying organic vineyards, an effort we also join at El Porvenir, reflecting a shared commitment to sustainability and quality.
What are the key differences between growing grapes in Salta and Mendoza?
Altitude: Salta’s vineyards are among the highest in the world, with altitudes ranging from 1,600 to more than 3,100 meters above sea level. The altitude affects solar radiation, thermal amplitude, and concentration in the grapes, which contributes to wines with intense colors, good acidity, and aromas of different profiles depending on the variety.
Although Mendoza also has high-altitude vineyards, they tend to be at lower altitudes than Salta, generally between 600 and 1,500 meters above sea level. The thermal amplitude is remarkable but not as extreme as in Salta, which generates grapes with a different profile.
Climate: Salta’s climate is more extreme, with high solar radiation, high daytime temperatures, and very cool nights. This generates a large daily thermal amplitude that favors the slow ripening of the grapes, allowing the accumulation of sugars and polyphenols.
Mendoza has a continental desert climate with less rainfall than Salta. The region is more dependent on irrigation by canals and irrigation ditches from Andean snowmelt. The thermal amplitude is wide, but the lower altitude generates differences in ripening and aroma concentration.
Soils: The soils in Salta are primarily sandy loam with good permeability and drainage. The combination of poor soils in organic matter and the altitude generates wines with concentration and structure.
In Mendoza, on the other hand, alluvial soils predominate, with a mixture of gravel, sand, and silt. These soils are also poor in nutrients, favoring the production of concentrated grapes.
Do you have any plans to produce new wine styles or plant new grape varieties in the near future?
We are in the process of experimenting with varieties we already grow but with innovative approaches that have not yet been seen in the Cafayate Valley. We will soon launch a rosé of Mourvèdre from our vineyard, Finca Piedramonte. In addition, we are working a lot with Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, with different versions that the valley has not yet seen, promising exciting news for our consumers.
Insight by Thibaut Delmotte, Winemaker at Grupo ColoméThibaut Delmotte, winemaker at Grupo Colomé
Please give our audience a broad overview of what makes the Calchaqui Valley special.
When the missionaries arrived in Argentina, they planted vineyards wherever they settled: where there was a church, there was a vineyard. However, due to climatic conditions in the northwest/northeast region, vineyards only survived over time in the Calchaquí Valley. This is why Bodega Colomé is the oldest active winery in the country, having been established in 1831.
Later, with modern viticulture, we realized that the advantage of altitude is not solely due to the healthy climate. At these elevations, we experience a significant temperature variation (around 20ºC difference between day and night), allowing for intense fruity aromas and good freshness in the wines. Additionally, we have much more ultraviolet (UV) radiation than at sea level. To defend against these UV rays, the fruit produces darker and thicker skin, resulting in concentrated and structured wines. To summarize, temperature variation provides elegance and freshness, while UV radiation contributes to the structure and concentration of our wines.
Tell us more about the different subzones you work with.
For over ten years, we have been working with four terroirs at different elevations and have observed that the soil certainly contributes its own characteristics.
In La Brava, Cafayate, we have 10 hectares at 1700 meters. This is the warmest terroir and has sandy soil, producing wines with notes of ripe fruit and soft tannins due to the temperatures, and at the same time, fruity and straightforward due to the soil.
In Colomé (2300 meters), where we have most of our vineyards (70 hectares), we have a very complex soil of sand, clay, and alluvium. This complexity is reflected in the wines: black fruit, spices, mouthfeel, and round tannins. Our most generous terroir provides persistence and volume to our wines.
In El Arenal (2600 meters and 45 hectares), we have a more open valley exposed to constant sun and wind. The soil here is also very sandy. These characteristics give us an elegant, vibrant, and structured wine (red fruit, floral, and mineral) that adds a lot of life to our blends. Generally, sandy soils produce simpler wines, but in this case, the altitude imparts considerable complexity.
Finally, we have 25 hectares in Altura Maxima, at 3111 meters, where the days and nights are even colder. The very stony soil is unique in the valley, featuring gray and pink granite and volcanic stones that contribute mineral quality and freshness, combined with fruity and floral notes due to the altitude.
Due to spring frosts, the Altura Maxima is more challenging than the other terroirs. We have to prune as late as possible to ensure late budding and use anti-frost systems through irrigation. Due to the extreme climate and poor soil, yields are very low, not exceeding 5000 kg/ha.
The growing cycle is different there, with a later bud break and, more notably, a much later veraison. When veraison ends in El Arenal, which is 15 km away, it is just beginning in Altura Maxima. However, phenolic ripeness progresses more quickly, allowing us to harvest before the autumn frosts.
Why is high-altitude viticulture such a big deal in Argentina?
It is a common belief that the higher we go, the more concentrated and “strong” the wine will be. However, now that we produce less overripe wines and seek a fresher maturity point without being green, the high-altitude terroirs show that freshness and elegance prevail over concentration and tannins. They provide wines that are very delicate on the nose (floral, mineral, red fruit), vibrant on the palate, and well-structured, with fine tannins.
Bodega Colomé is very remote, making logistics very challenging and costly. Additionally, its extreme viticulture does not allow for high yields. Therefore, the logistics/yield combination significantly increases production costs, making it difficult to compete with more accessible regions. Thus, producing terroir-driven wines allows us to differentiate ourselves.
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Discover Torrontés grape: Captivating aromas, unique flavors. Argentina's shining star in wine production is also cultivated in Galicia, Spain. Floral, citrus, and herbal notes create a refreshing, medium-bodied white wine. Perfect with global cuisines. A sensory journey awaits.
Tannat, a robust grape from the Basque country, is famed for producing rich, rustic wines in Madiran, France, and has found notable success in Uruguay, where it's adapted to create softer wines. Central to Madiran AOC, it requires over 50% in blends, with modern techniques like micro-oxygenation used to enhance its approachability.
Salta gastronomy
Bife de Chorizo (sirloin steak)
Salta’s food scene goes from strength to strength. An eclectic lineup is on offer in this vibrant city (including falafel and Thai!), which complements the myriad of bustling parilla restaurants, where sizzling meat is washed down with copious amounts of vino tinto.
Yet, if you’ve begun to tire of bife de chorizo (sirloin steak), grilled chicken, rabbit, goat, salmon, fresh pasta, and wood-fired pizza are all highly recommended. There may even be llama on the menu for adventurous gourmets. When in Salta.
With a passion for food & drink that verges on the obsessive, wine writer James Lawrence has traveled the world in search of the perfect tipple. To date, nothing has surpassed the 1952 R. Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Rioja Reserva, tasted in the cobweb-filled cellars with owner María José. Meanwhile, James has been writing for a wide variety of publications for over 12 years, including Telegraph, Decanter, Harpers, The Drinks Business, and Wine Business International. He lives in South Wales and returns to his former university city, Bilbao, as much as possible.
If you would like us to customize an exclusive luxury tour, contact us and let us know your travel plans. We offer luxury food and wine tours for private groups of a mininium two guests. In addition, all of our private, chauffeured tours are available year-round upon request.
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