Cassis Wine Region Guide

Winemaking and regional classifications

Cassis is a region of small-family concerns rather than large corporations and massive volumes. As a result, you’re unlikely to visit state-of-the-art wineries and chic tasting rooms; the authenticity of a family welcome and real insight into the ancient traditions of this proud region defines tourism in Cassis. Yet there are very few poor wines being made today, as owners have invested in better equipment – and viticultural practices – to safeguard their reputation in a fiercely competitive global market. Today, the region overwhelmingly commits to producing saline dry whites.

Diversity and Excellence

Styles and local expressions vary dramatically: you can enjoy a racy Sauvignon Blanc blend one minute and then a rounded, generous wine the next, based on Marsanne and Clairette. In general terms, winemakers always tend to preserve freshness in the wines, handling the grapes must carefully and using cooler fermentation temperatures to protect the fruit. Meanwhile, the small volume of red wines resemble southern Rhone in their heady perfume and ripe fruit. Grenache and Mourvedre blends are the most exciting reds being made here – perfect with Camargue lamb. In 2023, no other part of France has such a high concentration of quality-focused estates in a relatively small area. The best of Cassis’s winemaking is exquisite and more than merits a trip to Provence.

Geography and terroir

Situated 20km east of Marseille, Cassis continues to make a living from fishing, manageable levels of tourism, and viticulture. Flanked by the Mediterranean, its vineyards are sandwiched between Marseille and Toulon, planted on a series of low-lying hills and ridges that shimmer in the afternoon sunlight. However, Cassis is not a homogeneous vineyard like all Provencal wine regions. Terroir varies considerably, with crucial differences in soil, aspect, and altitude all worthy of greater discussion – and perhaps, one day, a more rigorous hierarchical classification. The most significant moderators of the warm Mediterranean climate are the mountains that flank the village in all directions.

Geographical Moderators

Meanwhile, the Sainte-Victoire and Massif de la Sainte-Baume mountains to the north protect more exposed vineyards from occasionally strong winds, which can soften the worst excesses of barmy summer temperatures. Similarly, the Chaine de Saint-Cyr and Canaille mountain ranges help shelter vines. Ideal vineyards are located on elevated cliff sides, north-facing, and protected by the aforementioned mountain ranges. Higher altitude sites help to moderate the severe summer heat and maintain acidity in the grapes – calcareous soils offer the best of both worlds: good drainage and water retention capabilities. Organic and biodynamic viticulture is becoming more popular as growers reject synthetic inputs for more eco-friendly vineyard solutions and pest-control methods. All in all, this is an exceptional terroir for the production of high-quality wines.

The lowdown

Proponents of Cassis – thankfully growing in number – will tell you that the region’s white wines have few rivals in Provence. They’re not wrong: expect a combination of fresh tropical and citrus fruit, garrigue, herby scents, a suggestion of honey, and, above all, a vigor and racy acidity. Even less exalted producers approach the connoisseur’s ideal. The wines are also incredibly food-friendly, with a style for every occasion and palate. Very young, crisp, and fruity Cassis often serves as an aperitif – a function it performs admirably.

Value and Appeal

But, as the wines become weightier and more complex, you can think about a partnership with grilled fish, langoustines, salade niçoise, and roast chicken with herbs. Moreover, even the top labels are seldom expensive, as supply and demand remain balanced. This is not a region driven by price speculation: the world’s trophy hunters have no real interest in Cassis – which is all the better for us.

A Growing Influence

Yet Cassis continues to seduce influential sommeliers and buyers in the 21st century. This is partly due to local tourism increasing (within sustainable levels) and partly because key stakeholders are more interested in sending their wines abroad. The timing is very opportune as the esoteric has never been more fashionable in hipster circles; a movement away from homogenized wine styles began in earnest in the early 2000s, spearheaded by bloggers. It was based on the premise that a region’s unique cultural identity should be celebrated rather than ‘smothered’ by ubiquitous grape varieties. Granted, you will find a decent smattering of Sauvignon Blanc in Cassis. For the most part, however, this is a showcase for original flavors, indigenous grapes, and longstanding traditions. Good Sauvignon – and indeed rosé – can be made worldwide. But there is only one Cassis.

Cassis gastronomy

Like all Provencal towns, Cassis boasts a good selection of restaurants and bistros run by chefs who place a high premium on seasonality and traditional recipes. However, your options increase dramatically once you arrive in nearby Marseille, where years of immigration have created one of Provence’s most exciting – and diverse – food scenes. The charming Vieux Port overflows with French, Indian, Moroccan, Tunisian, and Italian restaurants – take your pick.

A Gastronomy Guide of Provence: Read more