Hermitage Wine Region Guide

Geography and terroir

The majestic hill of Hermitage is a Holy Grail for aficionados of the Syrah grape. Who could resist these powerful, deeply colored, and utterly beguiling red wines? Moreover, unlike the neighboring region of Crozes-Hermitage, virtually all the available land has been planted to vines in this compact appellation.

As a result, the supply of this venerable wine will never increase by any significant degree in the 21st century. This may go some way to explaining Hermitage’s immense fame and popularity, which has endured since the days of Louis XIV.

Unique Terroir

The northern Rhône Valley, centered upon the pretty town of Tain-l’Hermitage, situates the area under vine. Vineyards planted with (mainly) red and white varieties cover just 140 hectares and enjoy a spectacular position overlooking Tain and the river. Indeed, these steep slopes are among the most privileged climats in the valley, located on the river’s left bank with a south-facing aspect.

The vines are protected from harsh cold winds from the north and cultivated on exceptional granite soils. This results in a free-draining terroir that retains essential heat under the vine canopy. This warmth then slowly releases as the day progresses, helping to produce small berries of highly concentrated fruit.

Labor of Love

Rising to approximately 350 meters above sea level, the slopes of Hermitage are not quite as death-defyingly steep as those of Cote Rotie. Nevertheless, mechanization and machine-harvesting are simply impossible in Hermitage. This is one of the reasons why the average retail price is so high. To create just one bottle of Hermitage requires a great deal of hard – and costly – work, not least when it comes to pruning, green harvesting, and the annual battle against soil erosion.

Evolution of Hermitage Wines

Winemakers in Hermitage traditionally blended grapes from different subzones in the region, fashioning a house style that nonetheless reflected the vagaries of a particular vintage. Yet there has been a strong cultural shift toward terroir expression over the past twenty years, inspired by the Burgundians.

Thus, growers are increasingly marketing single-site wines that display the vineyard name on the bottle. The most famous climats include Beaume, Bessas, L’Hermite, Raucoule, Muret, and Lauds.

Meanwhile, some areas also contain decomposed flint, sand, and limestone, although granite remains the predominant soil type in the appellation. That fact, combined with subtle variances in exposition and altitude, ensures that one bottle of Hermitage can taste very different from another.

In that sense, the region bears a strong comparison with the Cote d’Or, where differences in terroir are celebrated (and indeed promoted) to consumers. Critics generally regard the hallowed vineyards of Beaume and L’Hermite as Hermitage’s unofficial ‘Grand Crus,’ responsible for producing some of the appellation’s finest reds: fragrant with elegant tannins and good acidity.

They are quite distinct from the structured, meaty wines of Bessard; Muret and Raucoule also yield very aromatic, concentrated Syrah. Raucoule also grows a relatively small amount of Marsanne and Roussanne, used to make Hermitage Blanc.

Winemaking and regional classifications

People often employ the adjective “powerful” to describe the wines of Hermitage, and not without good reason! Granted, there are variances in style due to terroir and winemaking; however, the vast majority of red Hermitage is undeniably rich in fruit and extract.

Like the best Syrahs of Australia and California, it can assault your senses with an aroma and flavor that is almost overwhelming. This is particularly true of young Hermitage, where firm tannins can subjugate the fruit for at least 2-3 years after release. Yet nothing can restrain its exquisite perfume and gorgeous fruit once those tannins begin to soften in bottle.

Hermitage’s graceful maturity reveals a mosaic of tertiary flavors: coffee, damson, wood smoke, and leather. Without question, it is a wine that belongs in the same category as Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and Chateau Margaux – the crème de la crème of Gallic winemaking and terroir.

The Unique Blend of Tradition and Innovation

Of course, the backbone of all Hermitage is the Syrah grape. Growers are entitled to incorporate up to 15 percent Marsanne/Roussanne into the blend, enhancing its perfume and freshness. In the 20th century, this was standard practice in many domaines.

However, using white varieties in Hermitage is less common today, as winemakers increasingly favor the Syrah grape’s pure, unadulterated expression. Crushing whole bunches with their stems is the height of fashion—growers believe stems can add valuable structure to the wine. Other winemakers prefer a partial destem, while Marcel Guigal traditionally added destemmed whole bunches to the vat.

The Art of Winemaking in Hermitage

Fermentation and maceration are usually long-drawn-out affairs in Hermitage, typically conducted in stainless steel or oak/concrete vats. Long vinifications and macerations (at least three weeks) are partly responsible for the strength and depth of flavor one finds in Hermitage.

However, much ultimately depends on the quality of the fruit. Every great Rhône winemaker would agree with that.

A Divisive Choice with Impactful Results

The subject of oak maturation, however, remains very divisive in Hermitage. Guigal is a famous proponent of aging in new barrique, although the percentage of new oak has been toned down in recent years.

Many growers favor aging in one- to two-year-old casks, arguing that 100% new wood interferes with the flavor of Syrah and obscures terroir character. In our experience, a balance of new and used oak delivers the best results: structured and complex wines that maintain their essential fruit and purity of expression.

The lowdown

It is natural to think of Hermitage as primarily a red wine producer. Indeed, growers dedicate over two-thirds of the available land to cultivating the Syrah grape, which is transformed into one of France’s most prestigious and expensive red wines.

Yet local growers have always admired (and even shown a heightened preference for) their enigmatic whites,  hitherto ignored by many consumers. But demand is increasing as sommeliers and buyers hunt for better-value alternatives to white Burgundy. So, too, has the quality risen dramatically over the past 15 years – perhaps thanks to climate change, resulting in ever-riper grapes.

Still, even the most opulent expression of Hermitage Blanc retains enough acidity to prevent the experience from becoming cloying. It showcases a myriad of exotic flavors that never seem to fade.

The Unrivaled Quality of Hermitage Blanc

Most of my experience, however, comes from blind tastings; this allows an objective evaluation of any wine, free from label bias. Nonetheless, my assessment of this underrated style remains the same. In truth, I prefer it to the red wines made on this ancient hill, which is not to dismiss hundreds of years of tradition.

Yet the world is full of superlative red wines—single-varietal and blends—that showcase this singular grape’s wonderful qualities. It is rare to come across such a perfect union of Marsanne and Roussanne anywhere else. Much like Barolo, Hermitage Blanc has no actual peers or competitors.

The Delicate Balance of Aging Hermitage Blanc

Of course, not every single bottle will live up to the hype. Like many whites, Hermitage Blanc can be utterly ruined by an excess of new oak – a maximum of 20-30 percent is usually about right. Yet, if handlers manage the aging regime sensitively, this beguiling concoction can deliver much pleasure.

In its youth, white Hermitage is renowned for its acacia and white flower bouquet. It develops a delicate nutty flavor with bottle age, with brioche notes and honeysuckle on the finish. The best examples are hauntingly beautiful and complex white wines with a deep golden color that I find irresistible. If you like Condrieu, I guarantee that you’ll love Hermitage Blanc.

Hermitage gastronomy

The region’s proximity to Lyon heavily influences the culinary traditions of the northern Rhône – France’s second capital of fine gastronomy after Paris. Thus, in the lively bistros of Vienne and Valance, you can expect a generous selection of rich and hearty dishes. Not least among these are some delicious cured meats, freshwater fish, truffles, braised beef in wine, and potatoes slowly cooked in butter and seasoned with herbs. A healthy range of local vintages – by the bottle and glass – will turn this local feast into a banquet.

A Gastronomy Guide to the Cuisine of the Rhone: Read more