Emilia-Romagna Wine Regions Guide

Winemaking and regional classifications

With over eighteen DOC appellations and two DOCGs, there is no paucity of choice and variety in the vineyards of Emilia-Romagna. Indeed, its annual production only lags behind Veneto and Puglia, albeit there is plenty of very average supermarket and bulk wine in those figures. Nevertheless, it remains an important source of Trebbiano whites and sparkling Lambruso and Sangiovese. How producers make these wines will vary significantly — much also depends on the winery’s stated aim: premium or plonk.

Sangiovese: Traditional Practices and Modern Techniques

The best Sangiovese fruit, however, is handled with great care and sensitivity. Hand-harvested berries are typically crushed (some whole bunches/grapes may also be incorporated) and dosed with a small amount of sulfur dioxide to prevent oxidation. Many producers favor fermentation in stainless steel tanks with in-built temperature control; lower-temperature vinifications yield fruit-driven wines that can deliver pleasure at a relatively young age, as the market demands.

Historically, Italian winemakers have sought to extract large amounts of tannin and flavor from Sangiovese grapes via prolonged maceration. But this paradigm has largely fallen out of fashion in Emilia-Romagna, as fresh and fruity wines are far easier to sell. The top cuvées, though, are often matured in oak (or possibly amphorae/concrete eggs) for at least 12 months. Whether the Sangiovese is aged entirely in new wood or spends some time in the traditional old oak vats (called botti) will depend on the winemaker.

That being said, it is increasingly evident that wines constructed around the aroma and flavor of new barrique, and not that of the terroir and grape, have fallen out of fashion in the 21st century. The above applies to the numerous international styles made in Emilia-Romagna, including the Cab Sauv/Merlot blends, Chardonnay whites, and some very respectable Pinot Noir.

It’s the same story with the production of Albana and Trebbiano. Stainless steel is ubiquitous in Emilia-Romagna, while protective fruit handling has become de rigueur in the best estates. Thus, producers are marketing a growing volume of straightforward, unoaked dry whites sold below $15 to compete with Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc. The critical mass are well-made and fruity wines, albeit there is a certain bland uniformity to much of the output. For that reason, certain boutique wineries are rediscovering skin-fermented versions, following the long-established traditions of Romagna winemaking. A small volume of passito dessert wines also remains in circulation, enjoyed by a declining fan base.

Lambrusco’s Resurgence

Lambrusco, however, is enjoying something of a mild renaissance in Italy today. Cheaper labels are made using the Charmat method, which accounts for most exports. Yet a new generation is leading a return to high-quality dry styles, including some traditional-method cuvées that rank among the most exciting sparkling wines made in Italy—unique and utterly delicious.

Geography and terroir

Emilia-Romagna is a treasure trove of wine diversity, with 22,446 km2 of land containing an astonishing variety of terroirs, macroclimates, and subregions. From the northern foothills of the Apenine mountains to the azure-blue tranquility of the Adriatic coast, the region offers a unique wine experience. Over 53,000 hectares of vines are cultivated in nine highly diverse provinces, each contributing to the region’s rich wine tapestry. There is much to discover here, even if Sicily, Tuscany, and increasingly Campania hog most of the limelight. Emilia-Romagna is a wine lover’s paradise waiting to be explored.

Climatic Influences and Local Variations

In broad strokes, the region enjoys a mild continental climate, with wet winters and dry summers; however, the weather shows more subtropical flourishes in Bologna, Ravenna, and Modena, with relatively high rainfall even in July and August. Proximity to the Adriatic increases welcome and unwelcome humidity but also helps moderate the summer heat.

However, the most important geographical landmark in Emilia-Romagna is undoubtedly the River Po, which is responsible for cooling breezes that are a vital part of the local quality equation in the surrounding valley. It flows across the plain southeast of Milan to the Adriatic, encompassing a large landmass of relatively flat terrain. Thus, unlike their counterparts in Tuscany and Piedmont, growers cannot rely on elevation – and the moderating effects of diurnal temperature variation – in much of Emilia-Romagna. An important exception is the foothills around Bologna, where Chardonnay and Merlot thrive in the sandstone and limestone terroirs of the Colli Bolognesi. In this up-and-coming appellation and elsewhere, producers are finally realizing the potential for high-quality wine production.

Key appellations/wine styles

Lambrusco

It’s easy to ridicule Lambrusco: the worst examples of this iconic wine style are sickly sweet, frothy plonk, made as quickly – and cheaply – as possible. Yet producers such as Francesco Bellei, Baldini, Ceci, and Paltrinieri are working hard to redefine Lambrusco in the eyes of consumers, releasing a mixture of frizzante (lightly effervescent) and traditional-method wines, in addition to the critical mass of tank-fermented styles. At its best, this iconic red cuts through the fatty richness of local cuisine like no other beverage. Slowly but surely, Lambrusco is becoming fashionable again.

Today, Lambrusco is made in several Italian regions, including Piedmont and Basilicata in southern Italy. However, the center of production remains Emilia-Romagna: several appellations have the right to market Lambrusco sparkling wines, including Modena DOC, Reggiano, Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro and Lambrusco di Sorbara. The most refined and appetizing examples come from Sorbara, where producers generally prioritize quality over quantity.

Romagna Albana DOCG

Albana di Romagna (as it was formerly known) has the singular distinction of being the first white wine vineyard to be awarded DOCG status in Italy. The production zone extends east from Bologna, encompassing a series of rolling hills that flank the chic resorts of Rimini and Riccione on the Adriatic. The finest climats (vineyard sites) enjoy a south-facing aspect and higher elevation, planted to the indigenous Albana grape. Like so many Italian whites, they range from the exquisite to the execrable; producers in the region make dry, sweet, still, and sparkling wines, although they market the sparkling wines under the DOC banner. The best offer excellent value for money: a delicious glass of orchard fruit and invigorating effervescence.

Romagna DOC

In the mineral-rich, clay soils of Romagna, a great deal of varietal wine is marketed under the catch-all designation of Romagna DOC. It was created (in 2011) after the authorities decided to merge the area’s numerous appellations into a singular title, designed to simplify regional marketing in the zone and avoid consumer label exhaustion. The most remarkable success story is the revival of Sangiovese in the vineyards west of Ravenna; the best wines are rich and sumptuous, while the number of single-vineyard bottlings has increased significantly over the past 15 years. Much of the local Trebbiano, however, is distinctly ordinary. Indeed, growers have enjoyed tremendous success with Chardonnay and Garganega and some fresh and fruity Pinot Grigio.

Colli Piacentini DOC

To the south and east of Piacenza are a series of undulating vineyards belonging to the obscure (but worthwhile) Colli Piacentini DOC. Both red and white styles are made here: blends and single-varietal expressions that range from 100% Chardonnay wines to seductive, barrel-aged Pinot Noir.

Colli Bolognesi DOC

The hills around Bologna, the Colli Bolognesi, are heavily planted to international varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and a growing volume of Chardonnay. Yet, while these grapes are admittedly ubiquitous the world over, there is a wealth of high-quality wine made in the appellation, while prices have remained very reasonable. Meanwhile, aficionados of the esoteric should sample the local white Pignoletto used to make Pét-Nats (Méthode Ancestrale to the French). This method predates Champagne by several hundred years: the wines are bottled before the primary fermentation has concluded, dissolving a small amount of CO2 into this cloudy, gently effervescent concoction of fruit, sugar, and acid. The best examples are delicious and perfect with Pinza Bolognese (jam-filled pastry).

Emilia-Romagna gastronomy

Although sybarites usually make a beeline for Tuscany for gastronomic excitement, Emilia-Romagna is no slouch in the culinary department. Whether sinking your teeth into premium-grade Prosciutto di Parma, savoring long-aged Parmigiano, or feasting on Lasagne al Forno, this region places the highest emphasis on quality food and drink. Contemporary kitchens pay homage to the area’s long traditions, including the best balsamic vinegar in Europe (from Modena) and the iconic tagliatelle and tortellini pasta dishes.

A Guide to the Gastronomy and Cuisine of Emilia-Romagna: Read more