Itata Wine Region Guide

Geography and terroir

Once dedicated to high-intensity farming, the vineyards of Itata are now experiencing a remarkable renaissance. Cultivated in a verdant and undulating region, Itata’s best wines are utterly beguiling: they combine a generosity of fruit with the freshness of Pacific influence, particularly at higher elevations. In the majestic terrain of the ‘deep south,’ Chile’s top winemakers continue to push boundaries and redefine our expectations.

Indeed, the Itata Valley has attracted much outside attention and investment in recent years. The vignoble (4252 hectares under vine) is located just south of the city of Chillán, extending for approximately 100 kilometers towards the vineyards of Bio Bio. The port city of Concepción is to the west, while the snow-capped Andes lie to the east. It is a most advantageous place to grow vines.

According to Wines of Chile:

“Itata ( ee-TAH-tah) means ‘abundant grazing’ in Mapudungun, the language of the Mapuches who lived here. When the Spanish arrived in the 16th century, this is where they established their first vineyards – close to the port of Concepción. On offer are old vine wines made from 100+ year old Cinsault, 90 year old Moscatel – truly different and exciting wines. Other grape varieties grown here include Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere, Merlot, Semillón, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Tintórera. The latter is a red grape, whose home is in Almansa, Spain.”

Yet the key to Itata’s recent global success is not just about varietals. Fundamental to the region, as so often in Chile, is proximity to the ocean – the presence of cool marine air has a significant impact on the local mesoclimate. It is responsible for moderating summer heat and increasing the amount of annual rainfall, two important factors that allow producers to dry farm in the region. However, this is far more challenging in the Valle Central: the high-altitude Coastal Range blocks any Pacific influences before they can drift inland. Fortunately, the vineyards of Itata are relatively exposed to oceanic weather, due to the Coastal Range’s lower elevation in the south. In northern Europe, additional rainfall and cloud cover would be regarded as a hindrance – in Chile, these are precious natural commodities as (quality-focused) growers wish to avoid excessive ripeness.

The other key factor is terroir. Clustered around the towns of Chillán, Quillón, and Coelemu, Itata’s vineyards are planted on a mixture of sand and loamy soils, well-drained and occasionally too fertile. But, there are also granite outcrops, with mineral-rich clay in the substratum. These superior terroirs, allied to intense sunlight, yield a style that combines the best elements of Central Valley exuberance and Limari finesse; many wines have a lively acidity that is sometimes lacking in Chile’s hotter climes. Utilizing a diverse palette of French and local grapes, dynamic winemakers are helping to banish Itata’s (erstwhile) reputation for mediocrity.

Of the region’s 4252 hectares, 44% (compared to the Chilean total) are dedicated to growing País and Moscatel vines. Twenty-five years ago, the mere mention of the grape Pais (California’s Mission) was met with snorts of derision from oenophiles – poor-quality examples can be very pale and dilute. Yet Pais has been given a new lease of life in recent years, buoyed by Derek Mossman Knapp’s old-vine ‘Revival’ project and the proselytizing of Miguel Torres Jr.

Winemaking and regional classifications

Unlike the vignerons of California, Itata’s growing firmament of artisan winemakers are rediscovering the virtues of Pais. Genetically identical to Spain’s (now extinct)  Listán Prieto, Pais was used in generic blends for many decades, typically bulk rosé sold at a heavy discount in South America and the US. Everything disagreeable about the varietal–high pH and weak color–was accentuated by the enormous yields sought by local farmers to satisfy their paymasters. At its worst, Pais could be a very forgettable drop indeed.

Yet a burgeoning movement, spearheaded by some of Chile’s most talented winemakers, is starting to impact both quality and consumer perceptions of this mercurial grape. The modern era began very recently in the 21st century, after Derek Mossman Knapp, Miguel Torres Jr, Dominio del Cuarzo, and other stakeholders decided to promote a different side of Chilean viticulture; they felt a reliance on ubiquitous varietals had solidified the nation’s reputation as a source of good value wine. But these passionate individuals, driven by a quest for excellence, are unsatisfied with such a low bar. They want to excite, inspire, and provoke curious wine lovers.

Dominio del Cuarzo Pais is a perfect example of how exceptional raw materials and intelligent winemaking can do just that. Using fruit sourced from dry-farmed old bush vines (planted in the 19th century), Dominio de Cuarzo harvests a tiny yield from a plot less than one hectare. Cultivated on silty, volcanic black basalt soils, the bunches are hand-harvested and transported to the cellar for meticulous sorting before fermentation.

The winemaking then follows a very Burgundian path. The oenologist seeks to fashion a supreme expression of Chilean terroir: they wish to avoid excessive human manipulation at all costs. In this case, Dominio de Cuarzo vinifies whole clusters in concrete tanks with no temperature control for 18 days. This is a very ancestral method of handling wine – whole bunch fermentation takes additional time and requires a generous amount of space, using pigeage (punch down) to extract color, tannin, and flavor. Yet several leading Burgundy producers swear by this method, arguing that it results in more complex, aromatic wines. Meanwhile, Burgundians overwhelmingly prefer to use natural yeast strains, pointing to the enhanced complexity and subtlety that flow from wild yeast. So it is with Dominio de Cuarzo.

The lack of temperature control is another bold decision. Almost all modern producers use temperature control to maintain fruit and freshness in their wines; however, Burgundians believe Pinot must reach a temperature of 86°F to extract enough color and flavor from the skins. Along similar lines, Dominio de Cuarzo allows the Pais to ferment without artificial cooling, maturing the wine for 12 months in neutral oak barrels before it is bottled. The wine is not fined or filtered – the Burgundians’ dislike of filtering is built around the notion that it can diminish flavor and aroma. No hard scientific evidence supports this assertion, yet the anti-filtration mantra is spreading across the New World.

Nevertheless, this is an exemplary interpretation of the Pais grape. Soft, elegant and imbued with sappy red fruit, its closest rival is Pedro Parra’s Vinista, described by Tim Atkin MW as “deliciously refined, pale, playful and refreshing”, with notes of “pomegranate and raspberry fruit” on the mid palate. Some very worthy dry whites are also being made in Itata today, particularly from Chardonnay, Riesling, and Sauvignon Blanc. But the rejuvenation of this once derided grape variety has us completely enthralled. The Chileans have done it again.

Itata gastronomy

Chile’s smaller cities, exemplified by Chillán, offer a good selection of atmospheric restaurants and friendly bars despite their provincial nature. Centered on the lively Avenida de la Constitución, there is a range of eating establishments for all budgets, although super-deluxe dining is not a feature of life in Itata. However, you can enjoy the best Chilean home cooking: tangy ceviche, grilled freshwater fish, steaks, filling lamb stew, and fried calamari, which are not to be sniffed at. Local vintages are always the stars in any Itata restaurant – try some old vine Pais.